what are some of the best mods to do?
- Thread starter iungerich1
- Start date
I'm jealous!
I'm also new to motor biking but I can imagine your turning some mean rpms with that sprocket and speed.
Dan.
Hands down a $10 NGK 5944 Iridium spark plug is the first thing to do, every 2-stroke I build gets one first thing.
http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9496
Identifying number for a colder climate is BRP6HIX.
The higher that middle number (5-8) the cooler the engine will run which in Phoenix in the summer is as much as possible so a 7 or 8, but you want to keep the heat in if it's really cold so go a 6 or 5.
Considering you started with the cheapest E-bay 66cc 2-stroke you could find and put it on a cheap Huffy bike you might not want to dive into all these other mentioned high performance mods just yet...
Sadly the chances of your Huffy's back wheel hub lasting long after you are done running break in gas mix and go to 32:1 or better even without mods are not very good, boost the power and the failure will come even sooner
It baffles me to this day why Huffy with it is nice steel frame and rim with 12g spokes would sacrifice what really matters, the coaster brake hub internals and bearings for pretty paint but I see it again and again.
When that inevitably happens you have the opportunity to replace the junk hub with a 3-speed hub, add a shift kit and without modifying the engine performance run with any of these direct drive engine mod guys.
$200 Sick Bike Parts 2-stroke HD kit.
$150 Shimano 3-speed hub with shifter installed in your Huffy steel rim with it's 12g spokes by a bike shop. That's what it costs me here locally anyway.
It is no easier to install a Jackshaft than pulling your engine apart and grinding, changing carbs, installing custom exhaust, etc but if you make a mistake it won't toast your engine and you can always put an expansion chamber later and run circles around those direct drive guys ;-}
http://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9496
Identifying number for a colder climate is BRP6HIX.
The higher that middle number (5-8) the cooler the engine will run which in Phoenix in the summer is as much as possible so a 7 or 8, but you want to keep the heat in if it's really cold so go a 6 or 5.
Considering you started with the cheapest E-bay 66cc 2-stroke you could find and put it on a cheap Huffy bike you might not want to dive into all these other mentioned high performance mods just yet...
Sadly the chances of your Huffy's back wheel hub lasting long after you are done running break in gas mix and go to 32:1 or better even without mods are not very good, boost the power and the failure will come even sooner
It baffles me to this day why Huffy with it is nice steel frame and rim with 12g spokes would sacrifice what really matters, the coaster brake hub internals and bearings for pretty paint but I see it again and again.
When that inevitably happens you have the opportunity to replace the junk hub with a 3-speed hub, add a shift kit and without modifying the engine performance run with any of these direct drive engine mod guys.
$200 Sick Bike Parts 2-stroke HD kit.
$150 Shimano 3-speed hub with shifter installed in your Huffy steel rim with it's 12g spokes by a bike shop. That's what it costs me here locally anyway.
It is no easier to install a Jackshaft than pulling your engine apart and grinding, changing carbs, installing custom exhaust, etc but if you make a mistake it won't toast your engine and you can always put an expansion chamber later and run circles around those direct drive guys ;-}
wohhh there ! lol my bike is a fixed gear with a 44t rear and i can top 40 with a tunned length1in diamiter strait pipe ! if i swap out to a 40t and add a few in to my pipe i can make 45mph top speed ! its all about gearing and power you can produce at a giveen rpm for your gearing !
i will agree with you however a stock motor with a good HD shift kit will blow by a stock motor with no shift kit and having low gears for slow sidwalk cruising riding is verry nice
and the oil mix recomondation for 32:1 should be the standard ! nice info
oh and even the cheapest flea bay motor can benifit from decking the head down ! take it down as far as you can on some glass using 100 grit sand paper then finnish the surfaace using 220 or greater, you can take a stock head all the way down to almost the fins ! THE STOCK RATIO OF 6:1 is too low and taken all the way down will get you close to 12:1, doubling the stock compression will give a good boost in over all power of about 5%
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nevermind, thanks for all your help guys!!
the speed seems to be getting better with the breakin after time it seems to be getting faster!!!!
the speed seems to be getting better with the breakin after time it seems to be getting faster!!!!
That's it?23.1 mph according to my cellphone
Damn, it must have been really slow before?
A stock motor with a 44 tooth on a 26" wheel should be close to 30 mph.
I know I harp on this sometimes, but when I think of "best mods" - brakes come to mind. I thought I'd ask if anybody mentioned brakes yet?
If the ones you have help you to stop comfortably, even as fast as the bike can currently go, then no worries.
If you think you'll need to stop sooner when you're really truckin' along, a brake upgrade can help keep that lovely ride and that handsome, chiseled jaw always looking their best.
The faster the bike goes, the more important good brakes become.
If the ones you have help you to stop comfortably, even as fast as the bike can currently go, then no worries.
If you think you'll need to stop sooner when you're really truckin' along, a brake upgrade can help keep that lovely ride and that handsome, chiseled jaw always looking their best.
The faster the bike goes, the more important good brakes become.
Wow you guy realllllyyyy lost it . Teach the guy about port matching and let him do his own R&D
Where does DR come in on newbie mods. You blew up this thread nice job.
unbelievable.
Where does DR come in on newbie mods. You blew up this thread nice job.
unbelievable.
lol ROFLAO !!! i am a litttle bit off my rocker.....just a lil ..... a lil bit......
My point exactly, except with a 3-speed I can change ratios on the fly with the twist of a wrist and not have to remove the whole wheel and change sprockets and chain size to change it ;-}
Not sure I like the idea of a 1" straight pipe,besides being loud and messy you don't get any expansion chamber 'reverse turbo charge' benefit.
iungerich1, I can't stress this enough. If you plan on staying with a chain tensioner, the stock one is just a disaster waiting to happen. They have a history of coming loose and falling into the spokes, sending you on a flight without an airplane. If you want a good one, contact turbobuick1 here on the forums. He makes an EXCELLENT one for $40. It mounts right on the engine over the clutch actuator cover and is spring-loaded. Here is the link to the thread on this.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=48647
I bought mine directly from him as he includes the Allen wrenches if you do. I've had mine for a week now and it has worked FLAWLESSLY. A lot quieter than the stock one. And no fear of it coming loose. Not to mention less wear on the chain. Best 40 bucks I've spent so far.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=48647
I bought mine directly from him as he includes the Allen wrenches if you do. I've had mine for a week now and it has worked FLAWLESSLY. A lot quieter than the stock one. And no fear of it coming loose. Not to mention less wear on the chain. Best 40 bucks I've spent so far.