This chain tensioner?

[MitchP]

The KIP tensioner adds a quarter inch to the space between the clutch cover and the motor. So you get longer screws and a longer engagement pin. BUT the pin is ever so slightly too long so that the plate (when screwed down all the way) pushes the pin into the motor. I don't know if that's what the process is but the result is that the back wheel spins like I'm pulling the clutch in UNlESS I loosen the clutch screws. These are the washers.

AHAH! it's the disengager shaft. The Clutch cover forces it in.

 

[fatdaddy]

The KIP tensioner adds a quarter inch to the space between the clutch cover and the motor. So you get longer screws and a longer engagement pin. BUT the pin is ever so slightly too long so that the plate (when screwed down all the way) pushes the pin into the motor. I don't know if that's what the process is but the result is that the back wheel spins like I'm pulling the clutch in UNlESS I loosen the clutch screws. These are the washers.

AHAH! it's the disengager shaft. The Clutch cover forces it in.

OK, Now I get it. And what I've found is not all bucking bars are the same. I've had to shorten them or make my own, longer, a lot. Take your bar to a hardware store and get a long, mostly smooth shank grade 8 bolt the same diameter. This is to insure you have more bucking bar stock in case something goes wrong. Then use the bolt (or the bar) and cut it,(or grind it,) to the length you need. The different factory's in china, about 10 of them, are supposed to make these things to a certain spec, But with chinese quality control every factory makes them a little different. You'll find a LOT of times you can't just take a bucking bar from one engine and put it in another, too mant different lengths.
When it's the proper length, take a very fine file and round the edges(just a little,) and smooth it up. Apply a lot of grease(on the bucking bar and the flat part of the clutch lever,) and install it. A PITA but I promise this will work. I've done it a lot.
fatdaddy.
P.S. The "Disengager Shaft" is called a bucking bar. And Get rid of the washers(spacers) first.

 

[MitchP]

What I'm is:

Find how much space the tensioner adds then add that to the length of the orignal bar.

OR

Hassle Bikeberry into taking it back, buying a cheapomatic tensioner with a spring pulley and buying a new exhaust and wider bottom bracket with the savings.

hmmm...

 

[fatdaddy]

What I'm is:

Find how much space the tensioner adds then add that to the length of the orignal bar.

OR

Hassle Bikeberry into taking it back, buying a cheapomatic tensioner with a spring pulley and buying a new exhaust and wider bottom bracket with the savings.

hmmm...

Dude, The bar is too long already. And just HOW do you add length to a peice of metal anyway? Sending it back would take WEEKS. All he has to do is spend an hour fixing it and he'll be riding in an hour and 2 minutes.
Let the brother build his bike his way. And please read the post just a little closer. The bucking bar is plainly too long, not too short.
fatdaddy.

 

[MitchP]

Major brainfart there... I would see what length piece I need (orginal+width of spacer=new bar) But I don't want to fabricate my own parts. It does not usally work well.

 

[fatdaddy]

Major brainfart there... I would see what length piece I need (orginal+width of spacer=new bar) But I don't want to fabricate my own parts. It does not usally work well.

No problemo bro, I just take giving advice kinda serious. The wrong advice in this case could result in a broken clutch cover. I TRY to be very carefull.
The only way to get good at making parts is to just do it. The more ya do it the better ya get. That what my girlfriend says anyway.
fatdaddy.

 

[Groove]

Yeah, that's what she told me too. Oh!!! c'mon - it was right THERE, I had to!!

 

[MitchP]

she did not.

 

[fatdaddy]

Yeah, that's what she told me too. Oh!!! c'mon - it was right THERE, I had to!!

Most guy's couldn't handle my girl. By the time she's through with them they are limping away and talking to themselves, ( and look like this)
fatdaddy.

 

[fatdaddy]

she did not.

Thanks for standin up for me Mitch. But Groove has NO IDEA what he would be getting into with my girl. She's one tuff lady.
fatdaddy.

 

[2door]

I'm really enjoying this and the only thing I could add would be that a new pin (bucking bar) can be made from a 5/16" drill bit. Harder metal than a bolt and if you want to decrease the pull of your clutch you can round off and polish the ends of the pin and the contacting surface of the cam in the clutch actuating cover, then lubricate the parts before reassembly.

The length of the pin (bucking bar) is critical for proper clutch operation. Be careful with how much material you remove if the pin is too long. A few thousands of an inch will seriously effect the amount of travel needed to disengage the clutch.

But I'm not telling Fatdaddy anything he doesn't already know

Tom

 

[fatdaddy]

The KIP tensioner adds a quarter inch to the space between the clutch cover and the motor. So you get longer screws and a longer engagement pin. BUT the pin is ever so slightly too long so that the plate (when screwed down all the way) pushes the pin into the motor. I don't know if that's what the process is but the result is that the back wheel spins like I'm pulling the clutch in UNlESS I loosen the clutch screws. These are the washers.

AHAH! it's the disengager shaft. The Clutch cover forces it in.

I just looked at the ebay add instead of the pic of your install.. The thing is supposed to go on the OUTSIDE of the case, not in between the case and the engine. If you did it the way it is meant to go on you wouldn't be having problems with the bucking bar.
fatdaddy.
P.S. Or maybe not. It doesn't show a clutch case at all in the ebay pic. So I would try what I suggested, shorten the bucking bar. And 2door is right. A little goes a long way.
P.S.S. And I looked a third time. I was right the first time. The thing goes on the OUTSIDE.
Look closely at the pic.http://www.ebay.com/itm/motorized-b...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c1166991

 

[fatdaddy]

I wish I would have looked closer at the tensioner before I went into all the "not so good advice" I gave. I assumed it was a frame mounted tensioner, not an engine mounted one. I apologize for that.
Of course the bucking bar wont work right, The bucking bar is blocked by the tensioner plate, and NO WAY could engage the clutch lever. Cutting down the bucking bar WILL NOT WORK. This tensioner is supposed to be installed on the outside of the clutch cover using the longer bolts or screws supplied. I think you said they supplied another bucking bar. I don't know why they would give you another bucking bar because the plate is not designed to interfere with it at all when installed properly, on the OUTSIDE of the engine. You should be able to use the one you have.
Again, I'm very sorry for not paying closer attention. But please, TRY IT ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CASE as shown in the pic.
If you've already cut down the bucking bar I will send you another one, on me.

 

[wing nut]

mitch , glad you found something to use
i probably could have counter sunk the mounting plate or filed a tiny bit off the top of the bolts , but i was planning a new crank any way . the stock crank had a ding in it & was pedaling oddly , also i wanted slightly shorter crank arms (pedal digs suck)
plus i know the new crank is of way better quality than the stock , and now i have more upgrade options down the road
and isnt that what it's all about ? getting down the road
best of luck

 

[MitchP]

Fat daddy,

lol I bought the KIP tensioner. It definetely goes between the plate and engine.
Currently I am looking for a spring pulley but they're out of stock. If anyone has a good lead.

 

[Groove]

No wonder he's not going to break a clutch cover using this design! Mitch - let me know how that tensioner works. What do you mean you're looking for a spring pulley? There's a spring right on that lever arm. I have a question - should the spool go on the wheel side or should it go on the engine side? I've seen it both ways..

 

[MitchP]

Groove,

Some people set the back wheel so that the motor chain is tight and add a tensioner to the pedal crank or vice a versa.

I want that cheaper tensioner because for $100 I'm not going to make my own parts. It's ridiculous, with washers, pedal ding, can't tighten the plate. I wish I'd have known this because I would've bought the one I linked or the one fatdaddy linked.

This is the one I have in my possession.

And it interferes like a MOFO.

 

[fatdaddy]

Fat daddy,

lol I bought the KIP tensioner. It definetely goes between the plate and engine.
Currently I am looking for a spring pulley but they're out of stock. If anyone has a good lead.

The pic in post#1 is where my confusion started. The Pirate Cycle Kip tensioner does have a hole for the bucking bar. So my First advice was right, and I should quit second guessing myself. I should also read the threads more closely then I did in this case. As soon as you get the bucking bar lenght straightend out you'll be good to go.
Anyway, If you want to just use your old stock tensioner you can make your own frame mount spring tensioner, that all they did and want to charge good money for it. Use HEAVY steel and get yourself a heavy duty spring and yer almost done. But I think you already have a good tensioner. Like I said, figure out the bucking bar and it'll be fine.
I still think you should get rid of the spacers before you fix the bucking bar. The case is meant to fit flat to keep a little water and crap out.
fatdaddy.

 

[Groove]

Thanks Mitch. I actually have the cheaper one you show in that pic. Im planning to use the spring and lever arm but I also have a bar that connects at two points to the frame which works awesome and I don't have go worry about the stock brackets getting loose and ruining some spokes. When its done i'll have best.of both worlds and will send.pic. what you have though is supposed.to be pretty awesome though....

 

[darkhawk22]

Here's my bike with the skipu tensioner from eBay. It was a bit tricky finding the correct spring and mounting but it works great now that it's all sorted out. By the way re-assembly of the clutch arm is important as when I first put it back together the clutch arm would not move at all. So I took it back apart and put it back together making sure the arm was loose and moving.