Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

I'm pretty sure that it is the clutch pad gear and drive gear, because it only squeals when there's load on the motor, such as when accelerating or WOT. There's less wobble than before because the old clutch base was terrible, I'd post a picture but I ditched it already. But there is still some wobble to blame.

I think I might break down and get another motor... we'll see how it fares in the near future. It deserves to get a few more miles first. I'll at least wait to wean it off the break in mix, then check to make sure it's still not running rich. As is, I only get 25mph which annoys everyone else on the roads.

At any rate, thankyou for all the help and generosity, guys! It's passable now, might get better, and I've learned in the process. =)
 
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you can't tell in this picture but there is a small crack in my bearing. i need to know if i could just replace the bearing or would it be better to just replace the whole clutch assy.?
 
russaroll said:
you can't tell in this picture but there is a small crack in my bearing. i need to know if i could just replace the bearing or would it be better to just replace the whole clutch assy.?
Click to expand...
I really doubt if anyone sells just that part so you will have to
replace the whole clutch.

Where in CA are you?
I happen to have just one of those bearing rings but it may not
fit on your clutch.
 
MotorBicycleRacing said:
I really doubt if anyone sells just that part so you will have to
replace the whole clutch.

Where in CA are you?
I happen to have just one of those bearing rings but it may not
fit on your clutch.
Click to expand...
in santa maria.
i found a clutch at kings i was going to p/u. it didn't say what size or motor it was for. i didn't do my homework b4 i built my bike and over paid when i bought it from motovelo :/ they don't have a parts section so i'm kind of screwed. won't be going back there since i've been reading through a few of these threads.
 
I think all the clutches are the same except that some have a wide woodruff key, while others have a narrow one.
 
russaroll said:
new clutch came in:) bike runs great
Click to expand...

Spoke too soon :( put the clutch in, rode around a little on Saturday. on my way to work today I shut it off to cross the road and now I can't get it to engage again. I think the small nut with the little lock screw might be too tight.
 
Is the clutch slipping and the engine not turning over?
If so, check the clutch plates and pads for grease contamination. If the factory over lubed the teeny bearings in the clutch hub the grease will fling outwards and get where it shouldn't be.
Whatever the issue is, good luck and please let us know the outcome.
 
quick question i am not sure where to put the question so here goes. If you have a 50cc motor that has an auto clutch out of a kids motorcycle is there a way to attach a cable to make it a manual clutch? would anyone know?
 
database00 said:
quick question i am not sure where to put the question so here goes. If you have a 50cc motor that has an auto clutch out of a kids motorcycle is there a way to attach a cable to make it a manual clutch? would anyone know?
Click to expand...
Essentially, no. Auto clutch typically means a centrifugal clutch. It relies on the engine rpm to engage and disengage. A manual (cable operated) clutch is mechanically moved to disengage and relies on a spring to engage it and a cable to disengage.

It would take some fancy machine work to fabricate a manual clutch for your engine. It could be done but be prepared for an expensive job.

Tom
 
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Whys would you want a manual? Does the motor rev too high so it don't idle at a stop or something?
You can use different Cent Clutch pad weights so you have to rev higher before it engages.
 
thanks for quick replies guys.
just started my project
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=46766
and right now it is a 1 speed motor with a nutural and 1 gear.
there is a mod you can do with a dremil to give it a low gear, i guess it was already in there but disabled because its a kids motorcycle motor. so by doing that mod i will have a low and a high gear. Problem is some people were saying that the kids were blowing the clutches because it wasnt going into gear that easy. i dont know yet, and when i do the mod i can play with my rpm's to see if thats all it needs. I could just start it as a high or low depending on my bike once its done. Im using a kit to allow me to use my bikes 9 speed casset in back for gearing as well. but that being said, i am going to have an 18speed 50cc mountainbike
 
hi. im new here. I just built a bike using a 4 stroke no name 124f engine. the problem that im having with it is when my throttle is at idle its pulling me forward still. it did not do that before. its like I lost my "neutral". any advise will be greatly appreciated.
 
This thread is intended for folks who use a 2 stroke Chinagirl engine and have a manual clutch.

Here is what I know about the centrifugal clutches like the one that is giving you issues:
Many things can cause one to drag at idle speeds. They are listed on order of probability.
1. Idle speed set too high.
2. The clutch bushing is not lubricated. They need to be oiled after every ride. 1 drop of engine oil will do. Do it while the clutch is still hot and manually spin it on the shaft to work the oil in.
3. Broken clutch spring.
4. Worn out/ stretched clutch springs.
5. The clutch bushing badly worn out caused by either normal wear and tear, lack of lubrication or both. This will allow the clutch bell to rock to one side and drag on the friction shoes.
 
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I just finished assembling my bike. I had some trouble with the clutch but finally got it running. now, whenever i press in the clutch the engine just shuts off, no idle. is this a problem with the clutch? maybe cable is too tight? or just carburetor
 
Sounds like your idle is too low. The screw with the spring adjusts idle.
Keep in mind the HT's are never going to have a great idle anyway. They tend to either idle too high, or die after a minute. Pick somewhere in the middle.
 
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