Clutch cable and clutch adjusting procedures.

Discussion in '2 Stroke Bicycle Engines & Kits' started by GearNut, Sep 4, 2010.

  1. seefish33

    seefish33 New Member

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    I just finished assembling my bike. I had some trouble with the clutch but finally got it running. now, whenever i press in the clutch the engine just shuts off, no idle. is this a problem with the clutch? maybe cable is too tight? or just carburetor
     
  2. maniac57

    maniac57 Old, Fat, and still faster than you

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    Sounds like your idle is too low. The screw with the spring adjusts idle.
    Keep in mind the HT's are never going to have a great idle anyway. They tend to either idle too high, or die after a minute. Pick somewhere in the middle.
     
  3. GearNut

    GearNut New Member

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    My best guess is you need to turn the idle speed screw inwards, towards the carburetor slide, to increase the idle speed.

    If the cable it too tight it can cause 2 problems:
    1. The release assembly never gets to fully relax and the resulting clutch spring pressure on all the parts involved causes them to wear out faster.
    2. The clutch may not be able to fully lock up and it will slip under power.

    The cable being too tight will not affect the idle speed.

    The flip side to this clutch scenario:
    If the cable is too loose it can cause the engine to die because the clutch cannot fully dis-engage and it will drag, placing a load on the engine that it cannot overcome during idle speed which has a very low power output.
    Also, a clutch that is out of adjustment can also drag causing the engine to die.

    9 times out of 10 the clutch has been adjusted good by the factory.
    Never try to adjust the clutch without first adjusting the cable and always double check your adjustments.

    A brand new cable will stretch as it breaks in and the need for frequent cable adjustment is to be expected on a brand new engine/ cable. After the cable settles in it will hold an adjustment for a long time.
     
  4. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Just a hint, but with a new cable I leave the lever lock on when the bike is parked. That hastens the stretching process and keeps down the number of times you'll need to adjust cable tension. They'll stretch to their max length pretty quick if the clutch is left locked whenever the bike is parked.

    Tom
     
  5. GearNut

    GearNut New Member

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    Great tip, Tom!
     
  6. sboricic123

    sboricic123 Member

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    New Grubee 66cc.
    I followed Gearnut's instructions to adjust the clutch. It runs fine but I would smell rubber burning. So I took off the flower nut and plate and noticed the friction pads had been rubbing a bit. When I have the clutch engaged, the back whell does not turn. So, is it common during break in to smell the rubber burning from the pads or do I need to do some more adjusting?
     
  7. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    The smell is normal.
    I hope you get the clutch adjusted properly after taking it apart.
    I usually try to dissuade people from playing with the flower nut until they have a firm understanding of how it works and how to adjust it properly. Good luck and follow the advice given in the tutorial. You should be good.

    Tom
     
  8. sboricic123

    sboricic123 Member

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    Thanks Tom. I thought I'd just confirm it was normal before riding it and wearing them out. I noticed only a few of the pads were wearing down too. I had to remove bits of loose rubber that was around them.
     
  9. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Too much grease on the gears can cause some smells too and clutch slipping.
    If the friction pads look glazed (shiny, wet) you might try cleaning them using spray solvent made for cleaning disc brakes (Brake Clean) is a brand, not sure of the spelling.

    Roughing up the pad surface with a course grit sandpaper will also help. Don't take off too much material, just enough to roughen the surface a little.

    Tom
     
  10. joelogger2

    joelogger2 New Member

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    its like the shaft the flower nut is on is extended alll the way and you can do all you want you cant move the clutch arm:-||:-||:-||:-||how do i fix that is there an adjustment in the clutch shaft itself
     
  11. joelogger2

    joelogger2 New Member

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    dont reply on this if youn have notin to say about what my problem is and how to fix it dont care about otherpeoples problems that dont help me
     
  12. joelogger2

    joelogger2 New Member

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    clutch shoes are new just replaced i replaced them when my clutch arm was under neath carb and couldnt b adjusted any more how do i fix that i increased the leanght of the bucking bar to give it more through and nothin cant even move the clutch arm when put back togethere i also tightend the flower nut real tight on the pads to prevent further slipping is the a nother adjustment to make with the actual shaft itsself:-||
     
  13. crassius

    crassius Active Member

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    check that the flower nut isn't on the rod so far that when released it is stuck against the shaft so that the outer pressure plate never gets to the pads
     
  14. KCvale

    KCvale Active Member

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    Your clutch arm should not be able to go in clear to under the carb.

    Huh?

    Man, you really should read how the clutch works.

    On the left side you have the engage arm in the side cover.
    The drive sprocket has a pin poking out of it.

    The flat spot on the engage arm lines up against the pin with the clutch released.
    Pull the clutch lever and the engage arm shaft turns, pushing the rod in the middle of the sprocket.

    If your pin does not stick out you probably lost the single ball bearing that goes behind the pin.

    On the right side you have the flower nut, your only internal adjustment.
    With the clutch engaged you turn it in until it contacts the pads, then back it of a 1/4 turn and put the set screw in.

    So, with the clutch released the silver pressure plate goes against the pads and drives you.
    When you pull the lever it moves the pressure plate out a mm or 2 to disengage the engine from the drive sprocket.
     
    #114 KCvale, Dec 22, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2014
  15. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Not sure who this was directed at but it isn't the way to get help here. You need to go back to your original thread and read what others have suggested. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=589308#post589308

    Also please don't start a new thread in another area asking the same question. Multiple and duplicate posts will be removed.

    The link to this tutorial was offered to assist you in properly adjusting the clutch. You might take the time to read it and try the steps outlined there.

    Tom
     
    #115 2door, Dec 22, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2014
  16. mezzenger

    mezzenger New Member

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    Those are some really nice hand grips yu have there KC. Are they still available somewhere?
     
  17. RockNRoller

    RockNRoller New Member

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    Haven't got to fire up the new build yet. Having issues.
    1. Clutch lever is parallel with engine. Seems a bit tight. When I let out the clutch, I don't hear my piston moving as the bike rolls. Do I have the clutch lever pulled in too tight with the cable?
    2. During first try to fire up, (Highly torqued) tensioner moved and broke a spoke. (Can be very dangerous) I cannot stress that enough. Be cautious.
    3. Is there a location that best suits where the tensioner should be placed? Closer to sprocket? Closer to engine?
    4. Something appears to be rubbing somewhere to do with the chain. Rear fender has been trimmed with metal snips. Chain is close but doesn't rub the tire.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm recovering from a broken ankle and can pedal the **** out of a bike but I need this as my daily transportation for distance. Thank you.
     
  18. crassius

    crassius Active Member

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    if chain is aligned properly and adjusted at the tightest spot, there is no force to pull the tensioner down - check all that

    if frame has skinny chain stays, I sometimes will cut an inch or so of old handlebar and split it into two shims to put under tensioner

    if bike rolls without motor turning, either clutch is not grabbing or something is loose on one of the shafts (often a missing woodruff key too) - open both covers and see where turning stops
     

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