Womens Issues
- Thread starter harry76
- Start date
Actually conventional thinking says black dissipates heat better than any other color, so your black motor should run cooler.Black retains heat. The motor will run hotter to a small degree. Black hides oil leaks also.
Thanks guys, im honoured with your remarks. As far as the factory look, msrfans bikes are very much the same. They all look so perfectly layed out, if ive pulled off a similar look i am very happy.
The name Shadow Hen is a sort of personal joke between her and her sister about novels or something and she made her nickname on facebook to Shadow Hen so it stayed..... and until recently we had chickens. So thats where the name comes from.
And as far as the silver making the engine run hotter or colder i have no idea. Kelly wanted her motor silver..... so silver it was
The name Shadow Hen is a sort of personal joke between her and her sister about novels or something and she made her nickname on facebook to Shadow Hen so it stayed..... and until recently we had chickens. So thats where the name comes from.
And as far as the silver making the engine run hotter or colder i have no idea. Kelly wanted her motor silver..... so silver it was
Msrfan, I may have already asked but i cant remember your answer. As i never pulled this motor apart, im not sure of the position of the oil slinger. So do you know or could advise me how much oil you think i need to put in this engine?..... dont worry i obviously wont blame you if it it blows up. Your advice is always greatly appreciated....
I havent had a chance to do much since ive been back at work, and a couple other things...... anyways hopefully i can finish my rear stand today, i need to make the support part that will rest under the frame. Ive still got a few finishing touches to complete.
I made a stainless steel rear stand catch for the rear guard, as well as replicating the rear guard brackets out of S/Steel
I also got a pretty cool little vintage style horn, i also need to buy a chainring and then i can put in my cranks and hook up a chain. I also need to run copper fuel line and then i can think about starting it....
I made a stainless steel rear stand catch for the rear guard, as well as replicating the rear guard brackets out of S/Steel
I also got a pretty cool little vintage style horn, i also need to buy a chainring and then i can put in my cranks and hook up a chain. I also need to run copper fuel line and then i can think about starting it....
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Hopefully not, a long manifold is meant to help with torque and bottom end i thnk, which will help make for a nicer riding bike. But is it too long? And what happens if its too long? I have no idea but i guess ill find out. I positioned the carby there because it is out of the way of the rider and that was my main aim..... if its not right ill just have to make a new manifold
Harry, Finally took some time to see what you have been up to. Nice job! Neat clean look and a great paint job. I stuck with the satin black for now and may do a little lettering and small bit of striping, but right now just having fun riding and getting the bugs worked out. Congratulations on your project. Dan
WOW! what a beautiful job. I have been silently watching this from beginning to end and that is a nice looking machine. I hope your lady friend enjoys it.
I love how you left part of the down tube to mount the engine.
I love how you left part of the down tube to mount the engine.
Harry, keep going, your doin it right I see! Neat!!!
The intake I have is with an elbow bend is going to go to an air intake that is quite long, the intake I see you have has a bend like a 45 degrees, mine has a 90 degree bend.
I can try once I have it ready to run try with and without the long intake to a higher on the frame point corrugated hose to keep away from off roading dust. Then I can see if there is much difference.
If this gives additional low end torque, I'll be real happy for hill climbing. I only have an 8.3 to 1 ratio gearing down.
I saw Tavern posted a YouTube Link on this site MB about some British Old Time Motorcycles movies, or rather a side show with some nice music and great old time pics.
One motorcycle pic was with just like mine having a corrugated hose from the carb to up high by the gas tank. It looks to be in a desert, like a dry lake bed, and a bit dusty.
Seems the length is not so much an issue, but I think if too tight bends could be a problem, but not like I see with what you have done, should be OK.
From the Tavern on MB
http://motorbicycling.com/f28/very-cool-stuff-32306.html
I saw this listing of the youtube video.
gunnasmc's Channel - YouTube
This one 8min 31sec long and at time location 0:37 to 0:40 is the pic of the one I described above with an elephant truck snout corrugated hose to suck in clean …hopefully… air without dust in it.
Another shot was a motorcycle jumping over a moving locomotive steam engine going down the tracks at time 5:12
Measure Twice
The intake I have is with an elbow bend is going to go to an air intake that is quite long, the intake I see you have has a bend like a 45 degrees, mine has a 90 degree bend.
I can try once I have it ready to run try with and without the long intake to a higher on the frame point corrugated hose to keep away from off roading dust. Then I can see if there is much difference.
If this gives additional low end torque, I'll be real happy for hill climbing. I only have an 8.3 to 1 ratio gearing down.
I saw Tavern posted a YouTube Link on this site MB about some British Old Time Motorcycles movies, or rather a side show with some nice music and great old time pics.
One motorcycle pic was with just like mine having a corrugated hose from the carb to up high by the gas tank. It looks to be in a desert, like a dry lake bed, and a bit dusty.
Seems the length is not so much an issue, but I think if too tight bends could be a problem, but not like I see with what you have done, should be OK.
From the Tavern on MB
http://motorbicycling.com/f28/very-cool-stuff-32306.html
I saw this listing of the youtube video.
gunnasmc's Channel - YouTube
This one 8min 31sec long and at time location 0:37 to 0:40 is the pic of the one I described above with an elephant truck snout corrugated hose to suck in clean …hopefully… air without dust in it.
Another shot was a motorcycle jumping over a moving locomotive steam engine going down the tracks at time 5:12
Measure Twice
Thanks guys. Im very happy with it so far.
One thing i meant to ask was, and maybe you guys noticed but it seems that when i cleared the tank the white went a little yellow. I used Dulux color and Dulux clear coat and ive had this problem previously... im guessing ive used too much clear or maybe the coats were too thick (the guards didnt go yellow)?????? Could i repair it by maybe doing a very light sand on the clear, or i could just live with it. It is a tad yellow but its ok
Before clear:
After clear:
One thing i meant to ask was, and maybe you guys noticed but it seems that when i cleared the tank the white went a little yellow. I used Dulux color and Dulux clear coat and ive had this problem previously... im guessing ive used too much clear or maybe the coats were too thick (the guards didnt go yellow)?????? Could i repair it by maybe doing a very light sand on the clear, or i could just live with it. It is a tad yellow but its ok
Before clear:
After clear:
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Didn't notice it really. I think it looks great!
I did not have yellowing on my red painted over with clear, with the base being resorcinol glue cover for strength wood parts, but it was hazy.
I was painting at night since the wind was down. No place indoors for my painting. Actually I hear people build motor bikes in their kitchens, but I think I'll stay here a while longer before I try that.
I had not shaken and had warmed enough the rattle spray paint can.
So trying again to get good shine on the clear coat, later I warmed the spray paint can in water and then let stay a day in my apt instead of outside and shook it to smithereens to get it mixed good!
It was incredibly better clearness. The multiple coats I did were only a result of not having it look shiny so I did the red a few times and the clear a few times. I didn’t do any sanding or steel wool in between coat, just sprayed over it.
Maybe if the color white paint and the clear coat are incompatible you could get yellowing, but if they are of the same type and brand they should be OK?
I used some varnish that had a yellow color once but not all the pieces of a wood oak bench have that happen. I think it was due to dew …. Moisture condensation over the night to morning hours and it cause that.
Someone else know???
Measure Twice
============= added info...
I just tried the zoom in on the tank and your right. Other thing I thought, can the metal underneath have any reason for it if it is a different make up than the fender material?
I can see your point now, but let me know what you find out and if the parts were painted at the same time, just trying to figure if anything I mentioned could be possibly the reason for the difference in color.
Measure Twice
I did not have yellowing on my red painted over with clear, with the base being resorcinol glue cover for strength wood parts, but it was hazy.
I was painting at night since the wind was down. No place indoors for my painting. Actually I hear people build motor bikes in their kitchens, but I think I'll stay here a while longer before I try that.
I had not shaken and had warmed enough the rattle spray paint can.
So trying again to get good shine on the clear coat, later I warmed the spray paint can in water and then let stay a day in my apt instead of outside and shook it to smithereens to get it mixed good!
It was incredibly better clearness. The multiple coats I did were only a result of not having it look shiny so I did the red a few times and the clear a few times. I didn’t do any sanding or steel wool in between coat, just sprayed over it.
Maybe if the color white paint and the clear coat are incompatible you could get yellowing, but if they are of the same type and brand they should be OK?
I used some varnish that had a yellow color once but not all the pieces of a wood oak bench have that happen. I think it was due to dew …. Moisture condensation over the night to morning hours and it cause that.
Someone else know???
Measure Twice
============= added info...
I just tried the zoom in on the tank and your right. Other thing I thought, can the metal underneath have any reason for it if it is a different make up than the fender material?
I can see your point now, but let me know what you find out and if the parts were painted at the same time, just trying to figure if anything I mentioned could be possibly the reason for the difference in color.
Measure Twice
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I think i put more, heavier coats on the tank then i did with the guards. So im guessing its that. Both the guards and tank were left to properly dry and i think i painted the white at the same time...... I painted a bike for my girlfriends daughter and the white on it went yellowish as well. And it was all dulux products as well
Rustoleum paint and Krylon paint are I hope compatible. I have a lot of red colored Krylon Fusion paint that needs no primer and also sticks to a lot of different type surfaces. Hobbyist use for use on plastic models a lot.
I saw a good sale on the Rustoleum Clear Coat so I will try a test first to see before I start. I thought the Krylon Red Fusion paint would be sort of shiny by itself. It turned out I do want to put clear coat over it so it shines better.
I did notice the brand use mentioned you use both the same brand for the paint and the clear and they went on the fenders and this other work you had without a problem in yellowing the white paint.
I suspect if as you say too much a heavy coat with this stuff you used may be the reason it yellowed and I may have the same problem with the stuff I used, but I have red underneath not white so maybe not as noticeable.
I've not painted anything other than the clamping mechanism for the attachment of the rear drive pulley on the hub. I intend on using the same on the steel bike frame later and I'll see how it matches.
Since you were talking about sanding and recoating, but I think you meant not taking off all the paint down to the metal. I am not versed in how to tackle that, but again someone else might know.
Measure Twice
I saw a good sale on the Rustoleum Clear Coat so I will try a test first to see before I start. I thought the Krylon Red Fusion paint would be sort of shiny by itself. It turned out I do want to put clear coat over it so it shines better.
I did notice the brand use mentioned you use both the same brand for the paint and the clear and they went on the fenders and this other work you had without a problem in yellowing the white paint.
I suspect if as you say too much a heavy coat with this stuff you used may be the reason it yellowed and I may have the same problem with the stuff I used, but I have red underneath not white so maybe not as noticeable.
I've not painted anything other than the clamping mechanism for the attachment of the rear drive pulley on the hub. I intend on using the same on the steel bike frame later and I'll see how it matches.
Since you were talking about sanding and recoating, but I think you meant not taking off all the paint down to the metal. I am not versed in how to tackle that, but again someone else might know.
Measure Twice
Yeah i just meant sanding (extremely fine grade sandpaper) the clear. Much like a color sand..... but most likely ill just learn to live with it and be more careful next time
I planned on making an air cleaner for it, but i still needed the rubber part. So i found an air cleaner off EBay meant for a Honda monkey minbike, and i dont mind it. Its vintage looking so i think itll stay as is
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