Yes, it takes some power away, but your 3hp will handle it nicely. I like the long intake runners. Gives more torque. You will need a support if you get too long. I love these old flatheads. They're all over just laying around and you can do so much with them. If you're interested, the numbers on the shroud tell the year of the engine. It's the first 2 numbers of the last group.
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- Thread starter harry76
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You can make that shroud look better by making it teardrop shaped at the top. You can cut the boxxy part up and curve it over the coil and make it look more vintage. Try a cardboard mockup like you do so well with the tanks. The shroud is the most recognizeable thing on a Briggs because most look just like yours whether it's 2 or 10hp. Changing it a little makes a totally different look. I cut up the one on my 8hp and changed the looks considerably.
Yeah supports are planned. I will make brackets to the frame, i also need to find some steel for the flange ends. Its only just tacked atm to get some idea of what it looked like, and i do like it.
It must be a 1980 then. Thanks for the heads up.
Will i need to do any engine mods for the angle of the engine, or just need to add the right amount of oil?
It must be a 1980 then. Thanks for the heads up.
Will i need to do any engine mods for the angle of the engine, or just need to add the right amount of oil?
Very cool....Yeah i like the look of that shroud.... will i lose any cooling benefits by doing that, looks like the air wouldnt be directed as well.
A full kit for a torque converter I have seen for a least expensive one at $209.00 and a simple centrifugal clutch for $49.00 if that sounds right.
I have a centrifugal belt clutch, but the amount of height to the sides is minimal, so I don't think the moving the jackshaft forward or after would have much range to change the gear ratio.
Maybe you mean if you got the separate parts that are for the clutch part of the full torque converter kit, and used it?
My old Briggs 5S that came off a reel mower labeled Moto Mower Company founded 1919 has one of these belt clutches and I was thinking I could weld on higher sides to it. I think that might be difficult to get it done right to get it modified, but interesting idea.
Belt Drive Centrifugal Clutches & Parts
TAV 30-75 Torq-A-Verter
Measure Twice
I loose some cooling with the custom shroud. I should have kept the sides on and curved it over the coil the other way. My tilted motors use the stock amount of oil. No other mods are needed.
About 50 years ago I had a home built and they used to sell a clutch that all it did was come tgether and pinch the belt,and you go. I have been looking for one and they don't make it anymore. It was called a V-Plex. Sortof like the front of the max torq, but didn't change speed..........Curt
Thanks, ive never seen inside one of these motors and if i dont need engine mods theres no real need to. So my question is do you think ill need more oil? How much oil do they take?
http://motorbicycling.com/f36/briggs-kick-start-motorbike-25549-6.html
see post #58 BriggsBiker pictures that show a forward tilt and I suspect no problem with oil, I’ve wondered, but you may check with BriggsBiker
http://motorbicycling.com/f36/briggs-kick-start-motorbike-25549-5.html
see post #41 my comment on tilt of engine from the same thread as above
Pictures I have attached of the guts of the engine and the splash fork. For level operation, I noticed it rotates a sweep of the fork from the side by the breather (aft) down into the oil. Then the fork moves across and upward to the front up and out of the oil at an angle by the time it is halfway forward.
A back tilt leaves the fork in the oil for a longer period of the sweep when tilted back I presume from this. It would have to be tilted more than my about 22.5 degrees I guess I have tilted back to get into the oil breather. The channel way to it from the crankcase would help stop it anyway.
Tilting forward I know it would be further from the oil breather so that’s not a problem. Someone said that they thought it would maybe cause oil to get too much on the bottom of the piston. I don’t think it should really matter, just getting enough oil where it won’t leak out like the breather.
So check the pics I have and from BriggsBiker check and see how it works.
Probably not a problem
Measure Twice
PS the Briggs Engine is an 80202 0430 Model, ? 3hp
see post #58 BriggsBiker pictures that show a forward tilt and I suspect no problem with oil, I’ve wondered, but you may check with BriggsBiker
http://motorbicycling.com/f36/briggs-kick-start-motorbike-25549-5.html
see post #41 my comment on tilt of engine from the same thread as above
Pictures I have attached of the guts of the engine and the splash fork. For level operation, I noticed it rotates a sweep of the fork from the side by the breather (aft) down into the oil. Then the fork moves across and upward to the front up and out of the oil at an angle by the time it is halfway forward.
A back tilt leaves the fork in the oil for a longer period of the sweep when tilted back I presume from this. It would have to be tilted more than my about 22.5 degrees I guess I have tilted back to get into the oil breather. The channel way to it from the crankcase would help stop it anyway.
Tilting forward I know it would be further from the oil breather so that’s not a problem. Someone said that they thought it would maybe cause oil to get too much on the bottom of the piston. I don’t think it should really matter, just getting enough oil where it won’t leak out like the breather.
So check the pics I have and from BriggsBiker check and see how it works.
Probably not a problem
Measure Twice
PS the Briggs Engine is an 80202 0430 Model, ? 3hp
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The picture of the crankcase cover I put up there to show the oil fills. The engine when level has the oil just what about an inch or so below the top of the plug threads if I remember right.
Then thinking where that relates to inside the crankcase with the other three pictures, let that be your guide to what is happening.
Then you just guess-ta-mate what the tilt will do and what it may or may not do.
Measure Twice
Then thinking where that relates to inside the crankcase with the other three pictures, let that be your guide to what is happening.
Then you just guess-ta-mate what the tilt will do and what it may or may not do.
Measure Twice
Thanks guys, and thanks Measuretwice for showing me my first look inside these engines.... i take it the fork thingy is the splasher??? Wasnt what i had pictured in my mind so thanks again guys.
Harry I just wish that was my first peek into the innards of a 3.5 Briggs... LOL after 35 years in the small engine industry and most as a MST (master service technician, I was the 18th certified MST in the U.S.) for Briggs me thinks I have seen far too many and written so many service bulletins I cannot even count them anymore...
Well id happily exchange your knowledge for my lack there of. LOL..... WOW, Sounds like you know your stuff. I on the other hand am making this up as i go along so if you see me doing something wrong please dont hesitate to pull me up on it.
Yeah while on one hand it must be good to have dealt with these engines, but all this is new to me. And its great learnng all these new things, feel like a kid again.... thats probably what you miss.
Im wondering what your engines are like? Do they run like clockwork because you know about them? Or are they just barely running because its the last thing you feel like doing, having done it for so long?......... you know like a chef that never feels like cooking....
Yeah while on one hand it must be good to have dealt with these engines, but all this is new to me. And its great learnng all these new things, feel like a kid again.... thats probably what you miss.
Im wondering what your engines are like? Do they run like clockwork because you know about them? Or are they just barely running because its the last thing you feel like doing, having done it for so long?......... you know like a chef that never feels like cooking....
Since retiring I collect and restore antique engines mostly of which are Briggs including a 1913 Briggs carriage engine with most of carriage and some of these... For the most part they run pretty good especially for their age.
I used to have a saying that if it isn't 50 years old it ain't gold but the longer I live the less that is a realistic statement. Basically I collect pre WW2 engines and when I can find them pre WW1 engines of any variety.
I used to have a saying that if it isn't 50 years old it ain't gold but the longer I live the less that is a realistic statement. Basically I collect pre WW2 engines and when I can find them pre WW1 engines of any variety.
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Wow Mark, those are some sweet motors. Mine are not that old. I have a kickstart "Y" and an "A" in a Pincore generator. OH, and a "ZZ". Always wanted to make a Red Bug.
Very very cool, they sure are some nice motors you have there. The second motor has a barrell very similar to my 98cc Villiers.... love your motors, something about old motors and copper fittings that just does it for me. Great work
That's right Curt. I have one of those clutches for a 5/8'' shaft and I know I'll probably never see another one. That's why I was suggesting the driver from a Comet set-up. Don't get excited though, I have plans for it. I used to have one for a 1/2'' shaft but let it go on a little go cart I sold years ago.
I have a recent addition of a 1933 opposed Maytag Briggs long body with kick start I would really like to build into as bike in the future...