Inside the 2010 Grubee Skyhawk CNS Carb

[GearNut]

Thanks, no I pulled the plug after I rode.
so I should start the engine, then with no load rev it up, then hold it WOT, hit the kill button till it dies then check plug correct?

The engine should be under full load to get the proper spark plug coloring.
Try climbing up a slight incline. Ride at the desired speed and throttle position for at least a 1/2 mile. Do not slow down or move the throttle position, hold down the kill button, pull in the clutch, and stop the bike. Don't forget to let the engine cool down before removing the spark plug, not so you will not burn your fingers on the spark plug, but so you don't risk buggering up the threads in the cylinder head.
I don't like waiting on the side of the road to let the engine cool down, so I do it on my way home and walk the bike the short distance from the hill to my driveway.

 

[Frankenstien Bikes]

The engine should be under full load to get the proper spark plug coloring.
Try climbing up a slight incline. Ride at the desired speed and throttle position for at least a 1/2 mile. Do not slow down or move the throttle position, hold down the kill button, pull in the clutch, and stop the bike. Don't forget to let the engine cool down before removing the spark plug, not so you will not burn your fingers on the spark plug, but so you don't risk buggering up the threads in the cylinder head.
I don't like waiting on the side of the road to let the engine cool down, so I do it on my way home and walk the bike the short distance from the hill to my driveway.

Thanks, im also wondering if the bogging has to do with the 18 to 1 fuel break in ratio........... Could also be contributing to the bogging.

 

[GearNut]

I would not be so concerned with tuning out a bogging condition until the engine is fully broken in. You can try to tune it to run a little better though, just don't try any fine tuning yet.
If your spark plug is a shiny-gooey black, You can raise the clip on the needle, thusly lowering the needle and, leaning out the fuel to air ratio. If the spark plug is a dry, powdery black leave it alone until the break in is completed.

If the spark plug is white or light tan this can do serious engine damage during the break in phase. You must enrichen the fuel/ air ratio ASAP!

 

[Frankenstien Bikes]

Well just for the heck of it I put my stock airfilter on and guess what no more bogging..... seems it was getting to much air with the heavy duty K&N style filter and running stock jet.

 

[Greg58]

I was lucky I have a can of k/n spray oil for my truck filter so I oiled my filter and that solved the problem.

 

[merchant810]

I am having all the same problems. I am a new builder and decided to buy the 2010 grubee from kingsmotorbikes, who by the way suck in customer service they wont respond at all to me and nobody answers the phone. so im stuck with a carb that is garbage and a bike that tops out and vibrates out of control. I am so lost anybody want this crappy motor? lol

 

[WattupBaii]

i cant find that gasket rubber spacer in my kit.. how do i get one??

 

[Greg58]

The rubber o-ring should be in the carb, installed at the factory.

 

[WattupBaii]

the black ring is there, the white plastic or rubber thing is not there, so the carb just woblesaround the intake

 

[KCvale]

What CC motor, and what does the carb say, CNS66?

If you have a 48cc and a CNS66 carb don't bother, just dispute the charge for a $50 refund and buy an NT type Speed carb.
You can ditch the remote choke all together and the throttle cable will work with a Speed or NT just dandy.

On a side note, that semi-ratcheting choke lever makes for great easy to use gear shifter on the left ;-}

Otherwise all can suggest is get a Pirate Bikes fat intake so don't need to buy the plastic collar, pay the ~$25 carb rebuild kit from Kings or gasbike which has all parts for many carbs but but mostly useless, or just take your intake pipe and carb up to your local auto supply place and have them find you a little piece of rubber hose, like heater hose, that will work for a buck.

 

[Greg58]

Or you can make one!

http://motorbicycling.com/f51/cns-carb-spacer-30179.html

 

[Off the hook performance]

I'm in FL,SAME PROBLEM RUNNING A....NGK--BR6HIX...PLUG &
CITCO'S 93 Octane...TEMP 88-94
WHEN COOLER RUNS BETTER.

 

[Off the hook performance]

Ngk. Br6hix..plug
93 octane should I lower the octane?
Oh yea 80cc ...help plz.

 

[Greg58]

Hey KC all of the new 48cc grubee kits come with the cns66, at least the six I have built or been involved with did. All were boxed sept. 2010 or later, one good thing is we did not have to drill out the main jet because from what info I can find they ship the same jets in both 48cc and 66cc kits.

 

[jeleben]

When putting the Carb plunger back into the Carb, does the long slit on the plunger go on the the guild pin side

 

[GearNut]

Yes, and the idle speed adjusting screw pushes against the little "ramp" on the bottom of the other side.

 

[KCvale]

Yes, and the idle speed adjusting screw pushes against the little "ramp" on the bottom of the other side.

Yep, and a couple more tips:
Engage the choke control lever to pull the choke barrel all the way up when removing and replacing the cable top, it makes it easier to get the throttle barrel in and out.

Also, if it the throttle barrel seems like it does not want to go down it is usually NOT the guide pin and grove misaligned, it is usually just the needle not lining up with the jet.

The 'pac man' clip goes in one of the 5 groves in the needle top and is what sets the initial height of the needle into the jet.
The farther out of the jet the needle is, hence the lower the 'pac man' clip is on the needle, the richer the motor will run.

 

[KCvale]

Hey KC all of the new 48cc grubee kits come with the cns66, at least the six I have built or been involved with did. All were boxed sept. 2010 or later, one good thing is we did not have to drill out the main jet because from what info I can find they ship the same jets in both 48cc and 66cc kits.

gasbike/kings finally got wise to me and cut me off.
For the last 4 motor kits I got from them I indicated in the delivery instructions for all 4 48cc 2011 Skyhawk kits that I would dispute the charge or refuse the kits delivery if they sent the kit with a CNS66 carb and not an CNS48, NT or speed carb.

4 times in a row I disputed the charge on PayPal for $77 and they settled.
That made the kits a reasonable price after I bought a separate NT or Speed carb and good air cleaner.

I gave piston bikes a try next with instruction to please use the proper carb for a 48 and they did, I was very pleased.
Sadly, with the same instructions and even the previous order number included the 48cc kit I got yesterday has a frigg'n CNS66 in it.

It does however look like the black rubber gasket is fat enough to close the gap and the plastic insert seems fatter but who knows.
I have no choice but to try it because I have no NT or Speed carbs left.
I'll let you know if I can make it work and what I did.

I just wish some motor supplier would step up and just make kits for 48cc Skyhawks with the right parts as standard.

 

[Greg58]

Making the copper spacer solved the loose carb and air leaks for me, my question is why would anyone think that uhmw plastic or teflon would hold up to the vibration that the carb gets.

 

[rexford]

I just bought a bike from another person on craigslist,

I was able to drive it fine for about 30 minutes the the gas overflow tube started releasing gas and I stopped moving because the engine was either flooded or no longer getting gas. keep in mind every time I turn on the gas even if i'm not trying to go forward the gas overflow is flowing. I weight 45 minutes to try to deflood the engine then I run the engine with the choke at where the picture is the thinnest. the bike still does not work

Note: I did not change the choke the whole time I rode it when it was working even after I had the engine running.