Hopefully i left enough meat on the scalloped part of the shifter. Its still very stiff. If it bends i have another handle and will make another leaving a little more on. I may still take a little more off the top part to make it a little skinnier.
Villiers beach cruiser
- Thread starter harry76
- Start date
I won a seat on EBay a few weeks ago for future projects. Well it turned up today....
Nice looking seat dont you think? Perfect for a boardtracker?............ I thought so too. Thats why i bought it, guess i should have asjed the size of it. The dissapointment when i opened the box said it all. It must be a kids seat. Its so small :-( lol
Not a total waste, ill throw it on an antique kids bicycle i saved and fixed up.
Nice looking seat dont you think? Perfect for a boardtracker?............ I thought so too. Thats why i bought it, guess i should have asjed the size of it. The dissapointment when i opened the box said it all. It must be a kids seat. Its so small :-( lol
Not a total waste, ill throw it on an antique kids bicycle i saved and fixed up.
I went back to the machinist because i forgot to give him the kickstart freewheel thingy. I was planning to get him to tap a thread in the jackshaft shaft he is making me, but the thread is a little too large for the 5/8 diam of the shaft.
He then said he could put a new thread on the kickstart freewheel but would cost about $30, and as im not sure ill use it yet, but figured i should get it put on anyway, i said not to worry as i could just weld it on. He said he could bore a 10mm hole in the shaft and turn down the kickstart sprocket thread to a 10mm shaft for free..... so should i decide to use the kickstart i just have to weld it to the end of the shaft.
He then said he could put a new thread on the kickstart freewheel but would cost about $30, and as im not sure ill use it yet, but figured i should get it put on anyway, i said not to worry as i could just weld it on. He said he could bore a 10mm hole in the shaft and turn down the kickstart sprocket thread to a 10mm shaft for free..... so should i decide to use the kickstart i just have to weld it to the end of the shaft.
Heres a picture with the shifter flipped. I dont know which i prefer..... what do you guys think. Either way ill probably cut the shifter near the exhaust to move the shifter more vertical.
The way you have it in front of the muffler looks great. I think it would look better if you straightened out the lower section enough to follow the lines of the front down tube and let it flow into the pivoting arm on the bottom. May have to rework the arm. A little forwrd angle looks better than straight up. Either way, you have a winner.
So you mean add some metal on the lower part to get rid of that "v" shape where shifter meets the clutch arm?
Do you think i should try and get the upper part of the shifter more vertical or leave it where it is. Im off to work and im going to cut some stainless and steel metal for a gate and see which i prefer. Dont know yet whether ill mount it on top of the fuel tank or on the side like yours was.
Do you think i should try and get the upper part of the shifter more vertical or leave it where it is. Im off to work and im going to cut some stainless and steel metal for a gate and see which i prefer. Dont know yet whether ill mount it on top of the fuel tank or on the side like yours was.
Harry, it occurs to me that the mechanical advantage of your lever, with the fulcrum where it exists, will not apply sufficient force to the tension pulley.
...Just to be more complicated...
...you COULD use a link in between the bottom of you lever and the 'shoe' that has the tension pulley on one end...
I think it best to position the lever where it does not obstruct view of the great looking old engine! But proper function is most important.
When you sit upon the bike, where is the most comfortable location for the lever?
...Just to further complicate things, you could use a foot clutch... harley did. a rocker styled foot clutch... toe to go... with the rocker back, the clutch was disengaged.
The bike is coming along very nicely!
Congrats !
rc
...Just to be more complicated...
...you COULD use a link in between the bottom of you lever and the 'shoe' that has the tension pulley on one end...I think it best to position the lever where it does not obstruct view of the great looking old engine! But proper function is most important.
When you sit upon the bike, where is the most comfortable location for the lever?
...Just to further complicate things, you could use a foot clutch... harley did. a rocker styled foot clutch... toe to go... with the rocker back, the clutch was disengaged.
The bike is coming along very nicely!
Congrats !
rc
Sorry i dont quite follow what you mean, why would i not be able to get enough tension against the belt???? Am i missing something?Harry, it occurs to me that the mechanical advantage of your lever, with the fulcrum where it exists, will not apply sufficient force to the tension pulley.
...Just to be more complicated...
I think it best to position the lever where it does not obstruct view of the great looking old engine! But proper function is most important.
When you sit upon the bike, where is the most comfortable location for the lever?
...Just to further complicate things, you could use a foot clutch... harley did. a rocker styled foot clutch... toe to go... with the rocker back, the clutch was disengaged.
The bike is coming along very nicely!
Congrats !
rc
I agree with msrfan that the shifter should go to the front. Regarding the angle. First I would see at what point the handle was comfortable to you as you sit on the bike. It needs to feel natural without stretching your body to make the reach. Even if the handle curves around so that it is above the front down tube, it can still follow the same line... even if above it. Take a look and you'l see. Very nice job on the jack shaft, too... so compact and right on.
Not to divert your thread any more than I already have in the past, but I wanted to share with you my Worksman frame transformed to an Indian new born. Just got it back from the welder yesterday. Now I'll have room for the Villiars engine! Plus the welder has become interested in my project and charged me just $45.00 for the work. He agreed to weld the engine mounts I'll make and looks like he can also turn down the crankshaft end to make it ready for a pulley. Woohoo!
SB
Not to divert your thread any more than I already have in the past, but I wanted to share with you my Worksman frame transformed to an Indian new born. Just got it back from the welder yesterday. Now I'll have room for the Villiars engine! Plus the welder has become interested in my project and charged me just $45.00 for the work. He agreed to weld the engine mounts I'll make and looks like he can also turn down the crankshaft end to make it ready for a pulley. Woohoo!
SB
Attachments
I don't think you will have any trouble reaching it because you reach the handlebars fine. And I think the angle is perfect right now. I would like to see the handle blend into the clutch arm without the notch. Should have enough movement to engage the belt. Just my thoughts. I really can't tell if it will take away from the visual aspects of the motor, but the lever looks like it belongs there. I'd swear it has an early factory look. Great job.
This is the EZ part, over here, Harry... Armchair quarterback!
I'll try to explain better...
You have built a semi-circle 'shoe' that pivots at the front, and hold a sheave at the rear which applies pressure to the belt, tightening it up against the two drive pulleys.
The amount of pressure applied to the belt will be determined by spring pressure, (which I haven't yet seen in your design), or by a lever, above that pivot point, which you will operate by hand.
The amount of pressure put on the handle determines how much is applied at the belt by the sheave.
If the handle above the pivot is the same effective length as the 'shoe' that hold the sheave, it's a 1 to 1 ratio, and quite a bit of pressure might need to be applied at the handle. Double the length of the handle, it will take only half the amount of necessary pressure.
Gosh I hope that explains better, what I see from my rocking chair! LoL
IMO, the length of your 'shoe', which holds the sheave, is somewhat longish.
It will require significant pressure at the handle end to get suitable tension applied to the belt so there is a minimum of slip once you need to motivate on down the road.
I do think you will find this to be true. Eventually...
Problem could also be resolved with an over-center cam action in which effective spring pressure forces that sheave against the belt so it will not slip excessively... once the slipping clutch action is no longer needed in a start from a dead stop.
The old harley tank shift motorcycles used a foot clutch. In part, because a traffic cop could always achieve a 'neutral' and quickly stop to direct traffic.
The harley straight lids on the transmissions were not real positive when selecting a gear... and sometimes a neutral could be found between gear selections, but the tranny might jump into a gear on it's own, from the general vibration of the machine.
With a harley clutch, the engagement was accomplished by multi-plates and spring pressure within the clutch hub on the transmission. The foot clutch control moved a lever that it was connected to by a rod.
Old design.
Next in line was the mousetrap...
(which is also a very interesting looking device you might wish to look into.
Glad you're having fun, Harry!
I enjoy your posts very much and appreciate you posting the pics of your progress.
Tnx
rc
I'll try to explain better...
You have built a semi-circle 'shoe' that pivots at the front, and hold a sheave at the rear which applies pressure to the belt, tightening it up against the two drive pulleys.
The amount of pressure applied to the belt will be determined by spring pressure, (which I haven't yet seen in your design), or by a lever, above that pivot point, which you will operate by hand.
The amount of pressure put on the handle determines how much is applied at the belt by the sheave.
If the handle above the pivot is the same effective length as the 'shoe' that hold the sheave, it's a 1 to 1 ratio, and quite a bit of pressure might need to be applied at the handle. Double the length of the handle, it will take only half the amount of necessary pressure.
Gosh I hope that explains better, what I see from my rocking chair! LoL
IMO, the length of your 'shoe', which holds the sheave, is somewhat longish.
It will require significant pressure at the handle end to get suitable tension applied to the belt so there is a minimum of slip once you need to motivate on down the road.
I do think you will find this to be true. Eventually...
Problem could also be resolved with an over-center cam action in which effective spring pressure forces that sheave against the belt so it will not slip excessively... once the slipping clutch action is no longer needed in a start from a dead stop.
The old harley tank shift motorcycles used a foot clutch. In part, because a traffic cop could always achieve a 'neutral' and quickly stop to direct traffic.
The harley straight lids on the transmissions were not real positive when selecting a gear... and sometimes a neutral could be found between gear selections, but the tranny might jump into a gear on it's own, from the general vibration of the machine.
With a harley clutch, the engagement was accomplished by multi-plates and spring pressure within the clutch hub on the transmission. The foot clutch control moved a lever that it was connected to by a rod.
Old design.
Next in line was the mousetrap...
(which is also a very interesting looking device you might wish to look into.
Glad you're having fun, Harry!
I enjoy your posts very much and appreciate you posting the pics of your progress.
Tnx
rc
Thanks for your advice, i see what you are saying, and i could be wrong but i dont see a problem with me getting enough leverage. The handle is at least 2 times longer.
A foot clutch could be tricky while pedalling?????
A foot clutch could be tricky while pedalling?????
I finally found a bike shop with a 1" steerer tube dye to extend the thread on my Monark fork. I dropped it off today and will be ready tommorrow.
On the way home i picked up my goodies from the machinist. Now i just need to weld everything in place, then i can get my v belts, make my shifter gate and thats nearly it. I just need to wait until my friend isnt busy to use his welder.... im getting fed up not having a welder. But as of tonight i may buy a welder off EBay if it doesnt stretch out of my price range. I cant really afford it, but i dont think i can afford not to have a welder. It will make my projects so much easier and 100 x quicker.
On the way home i picked up my goodies from the machinist. Now i just need to weld everything in place, then i can get my v belts, make my shifter gate and thats nearly it. I just need to wait until my friend isnt busy to use his welder.... im getting fed up not having a welder. But as of tonight i may buy a welder off EBay if it doesnt stretch out of my price range. I cant really afford it, but i dont think i can afford not to have a welder. It will make my projects so much easier and 100 x quicker.
I've had the same thought about having an inexpensive welder. Some things are critical and need to be done right. Others are not so critical and would be nice to just do it instead of waiting...
SB
SB
At the very least i will use it to tack parts and use my brothers quality gas mig welder to do final welding. But maybe ill use it to do most things.
I used my friends gasless mig welder not long ago for the first time and i was actually quite impressed, it does seem to be a little slower because the wire jams more often, i presume from having no gas. But it worked great and is a lot quicker then cutting something holding it in place and having to wait until the weekend til i can progress. So im getting one, just a question of when? This pay or the next or the next. LOL
I used my friends gasless mig welder not long ago for the first time and i was actually quite impressed, it does seem to be a little slower because the wire jams more often, i presume from having no gas. But it worked great and is a lot quicker then cutting something holding it in place and having to wait until the weekend til i can progress. So im getting one, just a question of when? This pay or the next or the next. LOL
I just need to cut down my jackshaft bolts, cut down the shaft to suit ( i will do this once i consider if ill use my kickstarter because i can slide the shaft a little if needed).
Im thinking i might get the machinist to mill my gate to save me a lot of drilling and filing. Depends how much itll cost. I need to do this in the morning if i want it for the weekend if i get it going.
So i have to decide how to do it. Its hard to explain so i drew a few ideas i have. Any input would be appreciated or any other way you know of. Im not sure. A and B would be easy. I like my C idea but it would take a little more work.... I would have to either replace my shifter with tubing or join the tubing to the flat shifter neatly somehow.
I also have to decide whether to make it out of 3mm steel or 3mm stainless steel, as i have both cut ready to be milled.
WARNING!!!!! Im no artist but i think you get what i mean.....
So i have to decide how to do it. Its hard to explain so i drew a few ideas i have. Any input would be appreciated or any other way you know of. Im not sure. A and B would be easy. I like my C idea but it would take a little more work.... I would have to either replace my shifter with tubing or join the tubing to the flat shifter neatly somehow.
I also have to decide whether to make it out of 3mm steel or 3mm stainless steel, as i have both cut ready to be milled.
WARNING!!!!! Im no artist but i think you get what i mean.....
I had a look at my kickstarter. And it doesnt look too hard. If i mount it like the picture it misses the chain, cranks and pedal sprocket, and i would only need to put a small bend in the kickstart arm outwards to follow the lower chainstay....
