Villiers beach cruiser
- Thread starter harry76
- Start date
The shifter gate i will cut shorter i think when i go back to work in the gullotine. Much easier and neater.
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The welder is something I would like to have for sure. I just living in an apartment I have stretched things a bit just using the tools I have without getting kicked out.
Mig Welders that can be used without inert gas, but have the ability to upgrade, either by just adding a tank/hose/regulator for other than steel welding can be had for not too much. I just would have to rent a place to use it or move somewhere else, so not right now for me.
The welding that I saw in the post #409 was your work I understand. I’m not so skilled in this area, but it looks fine, and when ground down real nice.
I was though looking at post #398 where the picture shows the modification of the bar to rear fork (for whatever it is called). The mod was to widen the rear fork to allow the sheathe to fit in place. What I am looking at where there is a dark blotch by the forward bend, I would guess that is an area that grinding did not make it shine. I don’t really think a hole in the tube exists, but it sort of looks that way just in the picture if you know what I mean.
All in all, (Great!) looking all the work, even if you are redoing the shifter. By shifter, I guess you mean the lever to engage and disengage the idler pulley. This bike you are not using the centrifugal clutch on it I know.
The talk about this other one in the video Dixie Flyer, I had one question for one who knows about it. I saw the use of a bicycle pedal to start the motor. No separate kick start, per say. What I was not sure of was that when I saw this engine started that way, the pedal on the opposite side of the bike was in the exact same position, not 180 degrees offset.
If this is like a moped, then I presume that there is a change over to allow the two pedals on opposite sides of the bike to be 180 degrees (opposite) so you can use the bike without the engine on to get around?
The huge stand, I don’t expect it folds up like a center kick stand that stays on the bike while moving. I suspect maybe what they had shown was for demonstration purposes only?
Just recently I spent some time getting my rear wheel washing machine pulley drive somewhat shimmed up so that it does not go to a wobble when tightened down. It has been a stumbling block since I decided to do the same method proven to work before when I was still in Jr. High School. The only thing different this time I felt I didn’t want to bend any of the metal tabs on the washing machine pulley to account for the angle the spokes make going from the hub to the rim.
While I initially somehow neglected to think that shimming would be necessary, and well a pretzel shape pulley had me rethinking that. It actually only showed up when tightened down fully all the holding screws. I know with 3hp running there will be some significant torque that I must have it tightened really secure, so it won’t move out of place.
What you put together on the rear wheel of the Villers beach cruiser, with the sheave looks incredibly strong. Hopefully I can get to see my build finishing, and at least functional. In some what contrast you have though made lots of detail to attention of aesthetic looks on your motor bike and it is stupendous!
Measure Twice
Mig Welders that can be used without inert gas, but have the ability to upgrade, either by just adding a tank/hose/regulator for other than steel welding can be had for not too much. I just would have to rent a place to use it or move somewhere else, so not right now for me.
The welding that I saw in the post #409 was your work I understand. I’m not so skilled in this area, but it looks fine, and when ground down real nice.
I was though looking at post #398 where the picture shows the modification of the bar to rear fork (for whatever it is called). The mod was to widen the rear fork to allow the sheathe to fit in place. What I am looking at where there is a dark blotch by the forward bend, I would guess that is an area that grinding did not make it shine. I don’t really think a hole in the tube exists, but it sort of looks that way just in the picture if you know what I mean.
All in all, (Great!) looking all the work, even if you are redoing the shifter. By shifter, I guess you mean the lever to engage and disengage the idler pulley. This bike you are not using the centrifugal clutch on it I know.
The talk about this other one in the video Dixie Flyer, I had one question for one who knows about it. I saw the use of a bicycle pedal to start the motor. No separate kick start, per say. What I was not sure of was that when I saw this engine started that way, the pedal on the opposite side of the bike was in the exact same position, not 180 degrees offset.
If this is like a moped, then I presume that there is a change over to allow the two pedals on opposite sides of the bike to be 180 degrees (opposite) so you can use the bike without the engine on to get around?
The huge stand, I don’t expect it folds up like a center kick stand that stays on the bike while moving. I suspect maybe what they had shown was for demonstration purposes only?
Just recently I spent some time getting my rear wheel washing machine pulley drive somewhat shimmed up so that it does not go to a wobble when tightened down. It has been a stumbling block since I decided to do the same method proven to work before when I was still in Jr. High School. The only thing different this time I felt I didn’t want to bend any of the metal tabs on the washing machine pulley to account for the angle the spokes make going from the hub to the rim.
While I initially somehow neglected to think that shimming would be necessary, and well a pretzel shape pulley had me rethinking that. It actually only showed up when tightened down fully all the holding screws. I know with 3hp running there will be some significant torque that I must have it tightened really secure, so it won’t move out of place.
What you put together on the rear wheel of the Villers beach cruiser, with the sheave looks incredibly strong. Hopefully I can get to see my build finishing, and at least functional. In some what contrast you have though made lots of detail to attention of aesthetic looks on your motor bike and it is stupendous!
Measure Twice
Thanks Measure Twice....
That hole you saw in the rear triangle (#398) is actually a hole. I did the rear of the bike at a mates house (using his welder) and i had a lot to do and very little time (he had to go to work) so i just cut the rear triangle and cut pipe and tacked it up. Dont worry i will be filling those holes and fully welding that section soon. I just wanted to make sure it was right, and didnt need to change it again for something unforseen.
And The Dixie Flyers pedals are only footrests/kickstarter. There is no pedal drive on it. But its still a beautiful bike. Maybe the nicest i have ever seen, but not a real MB i guess....
That hole you saw in the rear triangle (#398) is actually a hole. I did the rear of the bike at a mates house (using his welder) and i had a lot to do and very little time (he had to go to work) so i just cut the rear triangle and cut pipe and tacked it up. Dont worry i will be filling those holes and fully welding that section soon. I just wanted to make sure it was right, and didnt need to change it again for something unforseen.
And The Dixie Flyers pedals are only footrests/kickstarter. There is no pedal drive on it. But its still a beautiful bike. Maybe the nicest i have ever seen, but not a real MB i guess....
Harry,
Maybe you can help me find it. I thought this was on your thread, but if it is I just missed it again. Msrfan was showing another means of attaching the sheave to the rear wheel by means of some little dealies that he adapted to snug the sheave rim directly to the spokes. Not the commercial ones for Whizzer, but something else. I'm thinking that I might be able to avoid altering the frame to make adequate clearance for the belt by getting it in as close as possible to the wheel, using a narrow wheel rim for the sheave in the first place and lining up the belt pulley with the jack shaft. I hope.
I should have saved his commentary and photos when I could have. Now can't find them. Thanks,
SB
Maybe you can help me find it. I thought this was on your thread, but if it is I just missed it again. Msrfan was showing another means of attaching the sheave to the rear wheel by means of some little dealies that he adapted to snug the sheave rim directly to the spokes. Not the commercial ones for Whizzer, but something else. I'm thinking that I might be able to avoid altering the frame to make adequate clearance for the belt by getting it in as close as possible to the wheel, using a narrow wheel rim for the sheave in the first place and lining up the belt pulley with the jack shaft. I hope.
I should have saved his commentary and photos when I could have. Now can't find them. Thanks,
SB
Ive just been doing a lot of little things to finish this thing off. Ive done all the final welding on the bike...
I made the kickstart mount, and the chain runs through the middle. I just have to weld it in...
I made the kickstart mount, and the chain runs through the middle. I just have to weld it in...
I had some hard plastic and i cut a wedge for now to stop the chain rubbing on the top for now. I may eventually find a small sprocket or plastic roller to bolt through the middel and cut slots in the kickstart bracket so its adjustable.
Im just stopping for lunch and just chopped off the dropouts and am going to flip them to make them horizontal dropouts. I will reinforce with a 3mm plate with tabs for the rear stand i also made.
Im going tommorrow to pick up my forks and v belts and hopefully i should have this thing going tommorrow if all goes well.
Im going tommorrow to pick up my forks and v belts and hopefully i should have this thing going tommorrow if all goes well.
I got my dropouts done. Just need to tidy them up a bit more.
I made a rear stand for it but didnt take into account my disc brake caliper so ill have to modify it. Im not sure ill still be able to make it look good and swing right up and clip near my seat. I may have to settle with having it come up to horizintal. Any ideas how to make the stand stay at the horizontal point? Spring? Im not sure. Any ideas would be appreciated......
I made a rear stand for it but didnt take into account my disc brake caliper so ill have to modify it. Im not sure ill still be able to make it look good and swing right up and clip near my seat. I may have to settle with having it come up to horizintal. Any ideas how to make the stand stay at the horizontal point? Spring? Im not sure. Any ideas would be appreciated......
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Changing the dropouts was a good idea. You're having fun with your new welder, eh? zzzztttt... like having a magic ray gun or something. Ha!.
SB
SB
Regarding the rear drop stand. I made one last summer out of copper pipe that I tied a leather thong to, intending to change it later to something better like a leather strap with velcro of the same color (black) stitched to it. My old elgin has a spring holder deal on the lower rear of the fender. Lot's of the old ones used this arrangement and it would probably be pretty easy to make one up, but you need to be using a fender. With no fender, I would think some kind of longer spring could hold the stand in place in two positions... as a stand and at rest with one end attached to the stand near the drop out and the other up above off the frame. Maybe one on each side of the bike, like half of a screen door spring. You would need to have ears at the drop out plate to act as stops in both positions. Just a thought.
SB
SB
I wanted to have the bike going today but i still have a few thingsd to do. No rush i guess, i wanna make sure everything is right.
My tank has a few small leaks, i will tey and weld them again and if it still leaks ill resort to tank liner. And i still have a handful of small finishing touches. But heres how it presently stands and visually it looks finished minus the rust. And just finoshing touches
My tank has a few small leaks, i will tey and weld them again and if it still leaks ill resort to tank liner. And i still have a handful of small finishing touches. But heres how it presently stands and visually it looks finished minus the rust. And just finoshing touches
I went to assemble the kickstarter, and i think i have lost the little spring in the freewheel thingy, under the kickstart sprocket. So Camnz if you have one accessible can you tell me how long it is. If not no worries ill just go somewhere that sells little springs.
I fitted my mockup tank for a test run, but as i couldnt kickstart it i tried spinning the rear wheel with my hand and holding the shift lever in. It was to the point of almost firing. So i took it out onto the street to pushstart it....... i did get it to run, but i couldnt get much throttle, but i did go a couple hundred metres under its own power, albeit very very slowly LOL. And as its dark and i didnt have brakes connected i decided to call it a night. And im back to work tommorrow but it shouldnt be too long before its going......
I fitted my mockup tank for a test run, but as i couldnt kickstart it i tried spinning the rear wheel with my hand and holding the shift lever in. It was to the point of almost firing. So i took it out onto the street to pushstart it....... i did get it to run, but i couldnt get much throttle, but i did go a couple hundred metres under its own power, albeit very very slowly LOL. And as its dark and i didnt have brakes connected i decided to call it a night. And im back to work tommorrow but it shouldnt be too long before its going......
I need to either further weld my tank to seal some pinholes or use tank liner..... i also need to braze a copper or brass petcock mount to the tank. Ive never brazes or soldered but rather then paying someone to do it i figure i may as well buy the tools and try it myself. Definitely a skill id like to acquire, so any advice would be appreciated..... type of flame torch?.... type of solder/braze?..... techniques?
Silverbear i think you are knowledgable in this field.....
Silverbear i think you are knowledgable in this field.....
I'm not really knowledgeable about working with a steel gas tank, but since it is steel, I would consider drilling and threading a hole for a standard petcock to just screw into place. I don't know it your steel is thick enough to take threads. If not, maybe find a brass (don't know what to call it... it would be a little adapter deal with external threads and also internal ones. The internal ones would match up with your petcock. The outer ones wouldn't matter since you'd be brazing or soldering the adapter to the tank. I don't know how to brass braze, never having done it. My attempt would be with a propane torch, like a Bernzomatic or something like that. I would use silver solder and a flux appropriate for that. First I would tin both the hole it was going in to and the brass fitting apart... getting some silver solder bonded to the metal on both areas to be joined. Then put the bushing or fitting in place and give a little more flux, some heat and solder and it should flow together even though they are different metals with different heat absorption... that's why I would tin each surface separately. Then you are joining the tinning together if that makes any sense. Maybe brazing is easier or there is a better way to do this. If it were me, since soldering is all I know a little about, that's how I would try it. Careful with the gas residue in the tank as you give heat with a flame. I don't know if that is a danger or not. Someone else can advise you. Please don't get hurt...
The bike is looking wonderful... I love just roaming my eyes over all of the fabrication work. It must feel great to stand back and look... seeing what you've accomplished. Congrats on the first run. It may not have been all you wanted it to be, but it ran. Woohoo!
SB
Sounds good dude, sounds like its almost a go'er! ill attempt to take the starter clutch apart, and ill get back to you, been very busy lately
Cheers, Cam.
Cheers, Cam.
Thanks Cam.... if not like i said its probably just as easy to take my shaft to somewhere that sells springs and get one to suit.
Silverbear, there hasnt been any fuel put in the tank yet, so thats not a concern...
Silverbear, there hasnt been any fuel put in the tank yet, so thats not a concern...