Im thinking of a centrifugal clutch, just so its a little easier to ride. In saying that if i dont have enough room for it in the rear triangle i will save it for another project, and go back to the jockey shift hand clutch on the primary drive.
Villiers beach cruiser
- Thread starter harry76
- Start date
Yes i did, was a great read, and i have got a few ideas from the belt tensioner setup from it - sorry for not telling you earlier, thankyou very much for sending it to me mate!
that knarley looking thing on the pto is being removed right?
I can understand why, however the reason i went off the centripital clutch setup was the fact that i thought you might have to get the revs up quite a bit before dumping it into drive, having been told buy many people that these engines produce a ground - shattering 1hp at around about 3000 rpms, and a centripital clutch usually clicks out at about 2000-2500 revs.
Not to say it woudnt work or course, just after thinking about it i think mine might look better with the belt tensioner, and also so i can show off in neutral
On a side note, i havn't had anyone come in and say they thought it wasnt going to work, or that the engines would not produce enough grunt.
So im also in two minds about what to do, but im starting to lean towards the belt tensioner, also because the centripital clutch may take a bit of fiddling to get working anyway.
Will be interesting to see how it goes harry
Cheers, Cam.
that knarley looking thing on the pto is being removed right?
I can understand why, however the reason i went off the centripital clutch setup was the fact that i thought you might have to get the revs up quite a bit before dumping it into drive, having been told buy many people that these engines produce a ground - shattering 1hp at around about 3000 rpms, and a centripital clutch usually clicks out at about 2000-2500 revs.
Not to say it woudnt work or course, just after thinking about it i think mine might look better with the belt tensioner, and also so i can show off in neutral
On a side note, i havn't had anyone come in and say they thought it wasnt going to work, or that the engines would not produce enough grunt.
So im also in two minds about what to do, but im starting to lean towards the belt tensioner, also because the centripital clutch may take a bit of fiddling to get working anyway.
Will be interesting to see how it goes harry
Cheers, Cam.
Yeah the knarley looking thing on the pto is my rope start. It will be removed. I was just using it while i was playing around with the motor.
Yeah maybe i am better off just running a hand jockey shift clutch. I can always keep the clutch for a briggs motor i have. I dunno....
And i have read the same thing about the 1hp @ 3000rpm, and im no mechanic. But is that saying that is its max rpm? Or is it just saying that at 3000rpm it produces 1hp, but in actual fact may rev to 6000rpm and maybe produce 3hp just for argument sake...... Surely these motors rev harder then 3000rpm, dont you think?
Yeah maybe i am better off just running a hand jockey shift clutch. I can always keep the clutch for a briggs motor i have. I dunno....
And i have read the same thing about the 1hp @ 3000rpm, and im no mechanic. But is that saying that is its max rpm? Or is it just saying that at 3000rpm it produces 1hp, but in actual fact may rev to 6000rpm and maybe produce 3hp just for argument sake...... Surely these motors rev harder then 3000rpm, dont you think?
Hey Harry. Looking good. I love how the muffler takes up the void in front of the motor. On low horsepower gokarts I built for my young kids, I used to use a centrifugal clutch from old lawnmowers that brought the two pulley halves together as the rpms increased. Idled nicely and engaged smoothly. Also by moving the motor closer to or farther from the jackshaft would change my ratio slightly because the belt rode lower or higher in the clutch. That could also be accomplished with an adjustable idler. The comet driver clutch could also be used without the secondary pulley. I see them on ebay and may purchase one to experiment with. Just some thoughts and ideas I've either done or wanted to try. My latest bikes use a centrifugal double belt clutch between the motor and wheel. They have a sprag (one way) bearing to allow for pedal starting. A compression release makes pedal starting possible.
Thanks msrfan. Im a little confused as to which way to go. Decisions, decisions!!!!!
The clutch you are describing sounds like a CVT, is that right?....... I hadnt heard of the Comet Driver Clutch. Is it a cvt or standard centrifical clutch?
The clutch you are describing sounds like a CVT, is that right?....... I hadnt heard of the Comet Driver Clutch. Is it a cvt or standard centrifical clutch?
I dunno man, i hope so - but they sure do make one racket when you open them up!
Yeah, and its not the easiest of decisions either..
Cheers, Cam.
pretty awesome bike. I also have an atco reel mower with that villiers motor I plan on putting in a bike, as soon as I am finished the 2 grubee projects I have and the mystery (to me) friction drive motor.
Has any one used a us820 motor in a bike?
Has any one used a us820 motor in a bike?
Cool, i look forward to seeing what you come up with. Its good to see people use these motors because they look so nice. Theres a few people on here using this motor : CamNZ, Fasteddy and Silverbear.
Whats a US820 motor?
The squeeze type belt clutches don't have to be used with their jackshaft counterparts, but you lose the variable ratio benifit. One of the main things you gain is the belt doesn't have tension until the pulley comes together and drives it. The comet driver is just the motor half of their cvt system. You can make a jackshaft that swings with a spring to pull back on it utilizing the variable ratio of the driver clutch.
TORQUE CONVERTER DRIVER COMET GO KART MINI BIKE CLUTCH | eBayComet 30 TAV2 GoKart Torque Converter Belt Drive Clutch | eBay
I cant fit one of these to my engines crank as it has an unusual thread on it.
And i presume it does not work properly when placed on the rear of the primary drive?
Also wondering how this engages? Is it like a centrifugal clutch where if it isnt engaging at the right rpm's i will need to play with it to get it working.
Im beginning to think my original hand jockey shift clutch that tensions the primary drive would be a lot easier??????
From Measure Twice.
I am using a mini bike clutch so the chain goes to the jack shaft and then a pully on to the jack shaft with belt to the rear wheel pully. I have that helping center the engine weight as well as gearing down. I otherwise would have used a pully centrifical clutch that is made of steel from an old engine. I don't see that part as mentioned as a sub set of the full torque converter as being anything different than this centrifical belt clutch I have. The price on the full converter sounds about right. Long ago I saw a Rupp Mini Bike with a converter an jack shaft with a 5hp, it could patch out from standing still. If you get that, you'll have fuuuuuun!
Exactly right about your original idea being the easiest to make. The other ideas are better suited to higher hp, higher rpm motors. You can experiment with different ratios until you find what pulls well and gets the best top speed. If you could borrow an inductive hand held tachometer to check your top rpms, you will have a little better sense of what to expect. Just remember when you pass the recommended power band, it may not pull faster except on flat ground. That's the beauty of variable clutches. You gear it to have plenty of take off power and gradually build speed with the clutch actuating according to demand and available power. You're right about using one on the jackshaft. Unless your 1:1 primary drive ratio, there may not be enough rpms at the clutch to engage. The exceptions are Whizzer clutches that are double pulley and engage at lower rpms. They are also one way for pedal or push starting. That's where a compression release comes in. The other example is an axle clutch like used on karts. As the name implies, they mount on the axle and are weighted to engage at lower speeds. I think they are a bit clunky for limited space applications. The Comet type drivers have spring retained weights inside the bell shaped housing that expand with rpms and force the pulley halves together. I think there's different springs and weights available. Most are made to fit straight keyed shafts like 5/8'', 3/4'' and 1''. I think you could utilize one on a pivoting jackshaft geared 1:1 from it to the motor. Sounds complicated but really very simple. I've done a similar build with this system. The bike in the photo uses a swinging or pivoting center mounted jackshaft and acts as a transmission. As rpms increase, the clutch squeezes together and pulls both belts simultaneously as the primary climbs to the outer edge of the clutch for top speed. Obviously mine has the clutch on the motor, but it could be reversed and mounted on the jackshaft for the same results. Don't be alarmed at the size of my clutch. It's much larger than most comet drivers. That's a whole different story. Anyway, it all depends on how much engineering and time you want to put into it. Also you're going for a certain look, so some components may not fit your overall idea. There's a lot more available, I just wanted to share what I'm familiar with. Either way, you have a great looking motorbike.
Thanks for the advice msrfan. Any input you have would be much appreciated. Your bikes look very "factory", and i mean that as a good thing. All your bikes look to be refined, and if i can get my fit and finish half as good as yours i will be very happy.
Ive got a number of builds on the go, so i may just do the hand clutch on this, as im keen to ride it..... and may play around more with a system like yours on my next builds. And i can use the centrifugal clutch i ordered on a 3hp Briggs i have.... unless i come across a 5hp Briggs in the meantime lol
Ive got a number of builds on the go, so i may just do the hand clutch on this, as im keen to ride it..... and may play around more with a system like yours on my next builds. And i can use the centrifugal clutch i ordered on a 3hp Briggs i have.... unless i come across a 5hp Briggs in the meantime lol
Well i decided i will just go with the hand jockey shift clutch..... and ive just started a 5 day break from work, so about 20min before i went to work last night i decided to draw out a clutch arm to make at work. I didnt really have a lot of time to decide what i wanted to do, so i just winged it, and if it doesnt work out ill just make a new one when i return to work.
So i made the clutch arm, but im not sure if im happy with it. It may be a little overkill, i dunno. I was thinking of using a longer engine bolt to mount this arm, welding a rod/tubing to the arm for a handshift, and a gate mounted to the tank. And on the other end i will just put an idler pulley on.
Im thinking i will drill lightening holes for looks, and cut and weld tubing in the holes for strength. I will do these lightening holes in the same size as the idle pulley bolt so i can move the idler pulley for adjustment,
So i made the clutch arm, but im not sure if im happy with it. It may be a little overkill, i dunno. I was thinking of using a longer engine bolt to mount this arm, welding a rod/tubing to the arm for a handshift, and a gate mounted to the tank. And on the other end i will just put an idler pulley on.
Im thinking i will drill lightening holes for looks, and cut and weld tubing in the holes for strength. I will do these lightening holes in the same size as the idle pulley bolt so i can move the idler pulley for adjustment,
Will you be putting a latch that can hold the hand clutch disengaged when stopped?
I was not sure of what this was and looked at Wikipedia and noted where they talked of when a foot clutch was called a suicide clutch if there was no detent. Detent would lock it so you could put both feet on the ground when stopped.
They had this picture of some old motorcycle, looks as if the throttle is a lever on the opposite of the hand clutch. Also like some old British made motor cycles like the Triumph had the throttle and the clutch was on the opposite side.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cf/ABC_french_918.JPG
My dad got thrown from just going a few feet down a drive way when he got by the edge of cement and the lawn a long time ago. Had a few stitches in his chin.
I was not around when it happened and he was the one who helped me start to build the motor bike. One of my brothers wanted to ride it too soon. I had not gotten anything better than a lawn mower type stiff wired throttle without any return spring attached. It had not even been yet mounted anywhere.
The brother of mine took the throttle, put it at max, stuffed it in his pocket to get it out of the way, and then controlled speed by choking pulses!
Prior to that, my brother was riding it before I got all the mounting bolts on the engine. They’re supposed to be three points of attachment. Two on the bottom bar and 1 strap from one of the engine head bolts to the top bar. With only the forward bottom bolt, an impromptu clutch was had.
He nudged forward with one foot on the engine to swing it forward and take slack out of the v-belt drive he was off.
Eventually I got it with a twist grip throttle and a centrifugal v-belt clutch as well as a low tension kill switch. The choke throttle / engine cut off and no clutch (but with all engine bolts on) was kind of crazy!
Measure Twice
I was not sure of what this was and looked at Wikipedia and noted where they talked of when a foot clutch was called a suicide clutch if there was no detent. Detent would lock it so you could put both feet on the ground when stopped.
They had this picture of some old motorcycle, looks as if the throttle is a lever on the opposite of the hand clutch. Also like some old British made motor cycles like the Triumph had the throttle and the clutch was on the opposite side.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cf/ABC_french_918.JPG
My dad got thrown from just going a few feet down a drive way when he got by the edge of cement and the lawn a long time ago. Had a few stitches in his chin.
I was not around when it happened and he was the one who helped me start to build the motor bike. One of my brothers wanted to ride it too soon. I had not gotten anything better than a lawn mower type stiff wired throttle without any return spring attached. It had not even been yet mounted anywhere.
The brother of mine took the throttle, put it at max, stuffed it in his pocket to get it out of the way, and then controlled speed by choking pulses!
Prior to that, my brother was riding it before I got all the mounting bolts on the engine. They’re supposed to be three points of attachment. Two on the bottom bar and 1 strap from one of the engine head bolts to the top bar. With only the forward bottom bolt, an impromptu clutch was had.
He nudged forward with one foot on the engine to swing it forward and take slack out of the v-belt drive he was off.
Eventually I got it with a twist grip throttle and a centrifugal v-belt clutch as well as a low tension kill switch. The choke throttle / engine cut off and no clutch (but with all engine bolts on) was kind of crazy!
Measure Twice
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