Villiers beach cruiser
- Thread starter harry76
- Start date
harry76
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately my lack of funds has stalled my project a little. Ive changed my mind a little and think id like a centrifugal clutch on a jackshaft so maybe next pay. And i cant fit my sheave until i know exactly where it needs to go.
I was going to remake my rear sheave brackets to make them not as wide, but im thinking ill leave them as it may prevent them twisting. I first made them an "s" shape but they didnt sit on the rim properly......
So i put a small bend in them to sit properly on the rim...
I was going to remake my rear sheave brackets to make them not as wide, but im thinking ill leave them as it may prevent them twisting. I first made them an "s" shape but they didnt sit on the rim properly......
So i put a small bend in them to sit properly on the rim...
harry76
Well-Known Member
Went to my brothers to use his welder to do my tank only to find out it isnt working 
I may just get a guy at work to tig it.
Got my Villiers sticker for the tank if i decide to eventually paint it and make it pretty. I havent decided yet.....
And i have a question about my springer forks as ive never owned a pair. If i use them i would need to get more thread on my forks as my steerer tube is too small. Im guessing id need to make a new flatter top plate (where the springs bolt to)?
Or when i get the extra thread on the forks and tighten it down will it push the front legs of the forks downwards? Because currently the front legs are very high off the front wheel (hope this makes sense because its hard to describe).....
I may just get a guy at work to tig it.
Got my Villiers sticker for the tank if i decide to eventually paint it and make it pretty. I havent decided yet.....
And i have a question about my springer forks as ive never owned a pair. If i use them i would need to get more thread on my forks as my steerer tube is too small. Im guessing id need to make a new flatter top plate (where the springs bolt to)?
Or when i get the extra thread on the forks and tighten it down will it push the front legs of the forks downwards? Because currently the front legs are very high off the front wheel (hope this makes sense because its hard to describe).....
harry76
Well-Known Member
I mentioned earlier that my motors revs were changing when idling..... well i ran it again yesterday (no real reason except it sounds good and i like hearin it lol), and it ran like a charm. The revs stayed constant so im not sure what was going on.
I go get my Villiers mower tommorrow, ill post some pics
I go get my Villiers mower tommorrow, ill post some pics
Harry, I think your forks are from a womens bike. They had a longer steerer tube and the spacers under the springs. The springs on a mans bike sit right on the forks without the spacers.
The top piece holding the springs on the steerer tube may have to be replaced since I think it steps down more than a mans bike. The rods the springs are on will need to be shortened also The top piece is available from a company called Crossbow in California.
I'll get the address for you shorty.
Steve.
The top piece holding the springs on the steerer tube may have to be replaced since I think it steps down more than a mans bike. The rods the springs are on will need to be shortened also The top piece is available from a company called Crossbow in California.
I'll get the address for you shorty.
Steve.
harry76
Well-Known Member
I think im just going to install a jackshaft with a centrifugal clutch. I looked online but all the clutches have sprockets on them. I need a pulley. Do they sell them with pulleys? If not do i just remove the sprocket and install a pulley?
Also ive never used a centrifugal clutch, so does it matter whether i use it on the primary or secondary drive? I mean does the clutch work properly by either powering the shaft or clutches pulley/sprocket?
The front drive pulley is 80mm from centre. I would ideally like to place the sheave around 35mm off centre. That would leave 45mm between the pulleys on the jackshaft and id rather not have the jackshaft any wider then the front pulley so if i cant fit the clutch between them i may have to put it on the secondary drive.
Also ive never used a centrifugal clutch, so does it matter whether i use it on the primary or secondary drive? I mean does the clutch work properly by either powering the shaft or clutches pulley/sprocket?
The front drive pulley is 80mm from centre. I would ideally like to place the sheave around 35mm off centre. That would leave 45mm between the pulleys on the jackshaft and id rather not have the jackshaft any wider then the front pulley so if i cant fit the clutch between them i may have to put it on the secondary drive.
Elmo
New Member
It is unless you have a long unsupported length with a load on the very end. I have over 2000 miles on my 5/8 inch jackshaft. If you mount your centrifugal clutch on the jackshaft it will probably take 3/4 or full throttle to get it to engage. Maxtorque clutches engage at 2200 rpm or so. If you have a 3 to 1 reduction from the engine to the jackshaft it will take 6600 to engage the clutch. I am assuming that the older 2 stroke engines like yours will be wide open by 7000 rpm. You can get a low rpm engagement spring from Maxtorque but I do not know how low they will go. The one that I got engages at 1800 rpm.
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harry76
Well-Known Member
Thanks Elmo, i ordered the clutch, i just hope i can make it work ok.
Last night i took my cranks into work to heat them with the oxy set to clear the motor. I probably bent them out a little too far but at least i wont be catching my ankles on the flywheel or pulley....
Last night i took my cranks into work to heat them with the oxy set to clear the motor. I probably bent them out a little too far but at least i wont be catching my ankles on the flywheel or pulley....
harry76
Well-Known Member
I bought some 6mm stainless steel button head allen keys and locknuts to fit my rear sheave. I bought a good drill bit, and i bought the only drilling compound they had. It was a liquid which i wasnt very keen on. Well my dill bit lasted about 5 minutes. So i need to go back to a different shop to get a new drill bit and drilling compound goo.
I only drilled two brackets before my drill was blunt (damn stainless steel). So i bolted two to the wheel and sheave to see how it fit.
It seems i made my brackets a little too short. The brackets are pulling out of shape to reach the sheave. So i need to either make new brackets, or modify these brackets. If i can get some more stainless at work it may be easier and more accurate to make new brackets.
I only drilled two brackets before my drill was blunt (damn stainless steel). So i bolted two to the wheel and sheave to see how it fit.
It seems i made my brackets a little too short. The brackets are pulling out of shape to reach the sheave. So i need to either make new brackets, or modify these brackets. If i can get some more stainless at work it may be easier and more accurate to make new brackets.