Oil mixture

Well, Eric I sure hate to see you quit on the bike, If it does have correct fire to the plug, and it has Air/fuel ( and isnt flooded ) and it has good compression, the only other thing it needs to run is.........proper timing, if the flywheel key is sheared or possibly missing from lack of installation in china motor plant, it will never run, but will still show to have fire to plug.

The next thing I would do is to take off the mag. cover and with an impact if you have one remove the nut so you can remove the little flywheel and check to make sure it has a good key in, if not you can make one out of a piece of a flat washer.

just trying to think of another possibility that might help you get that sucker fired up and cruising.

Peace



Eric2.0 said:
Well...... Still nothing after pedaling at least 5 miles...I'm beat, real beat.

I made a youtube video so you all can see what I did...I'm out of ideas and about to give in. This engine will not do anything...has lots of gas and a spark.

YouTube - DSCF3009



I have started and ran everything from racing 358 engines for dirt cars, motorcycles, snowmobiles, radio control airplane engines and even a minature RC turbine jet engine.

This engine has me clueless.....Thanks for helping out guys, but I believe I'm done.
Click to expand...
 
rohmell said:
Yes, Mapbike is right. Look at the magnet. With the flats at the top and bottom, the keyway should be at around one 'o clock (or 7 'o clock)
Click to expand...


I actually made some video of the mag... Give me a moment and I'll upload it.

I'll give it one more chance tomorrow, but dad and I have been thinking of a 4 stroke.... Pull start, quality ease to run ect ect for a 67 year old man.
 
mapbike said:
Remove that nut that holds the flywheel on and check the key, if it is sheared or missing, your timing is incorrect and ould very well be your problem if all else is good.
Click to expand...


I'll do that for sure(I'd REALLY like to hear this thing run) I do have spark, but as you say the timing may be off due to missing keyway or crappy quality control.

If it is missing, I'm going to be like.. "China has to get it's shiat together.

I'm willing to go a couple hundred or more if I can find a two stroke made in USA that has a promise to actually run. I like the looks of the two stroke over the 4 stroke, but for dad's sake I think 4 stroke would be the better option.

How hard is it to take that nut off?.... Do I need a puller? I don't have an impact wrench
 
rohmell said:
You remove the spark plug and can put a piece of rope into the spark plug hole to stop the piston from moving, or you can take off the clutch cover and stuff a rag between the big and little gears to keep them from turning. The nut should come off easily.
Click to expand...

Nougat said:
You can also grab the magnet sides with a pair of channellocks and use a wrench on the nut.

If you need to take the magnet off, you'll want to take the magneto off first (with those four Philips screws). A faucet puller from a hardware store is a great tool for pulling the magnet off the end of the crank, but it's also doable - carefully - with a pair of box end wrenches evenly prying it out.

You shouldn't need to pull the magnet unless you need to replace the woodruff key; the key should be visible after you take the nut off.
Click to expand...

Great tips, thank you.

I'll make it a point to check the key tonight and for proper timing.
It seems like that is a possibility, because I do have a spark when I have the plug out on the engine fin and running beside it looking at the plug. It does seem to jump around a bit around the spark plug electrode.. It isn't a consistent spark that I am used to seeing on a car or something. So the timing just may be off.. I hope so and I'll fix it, because I really want to hear it run.

If all else fails....I MAY just spend another lump of cash and get ANOTHER engine.... and hope that one will take off. If that one doesn't work either..then I'll be done.

Back to the drawing board:-||
 
Yeah, that sucks. I hope you get it running so you can get the next "happy time" when parts start falling off in the road.

Mine works, but I will never do another. I am very happy with it, it looks really cool, turns heads and makes people smile at me.

But too much frustration, too much tinkering and no confidence of it's reliability. Not something I'd want to get more than a few miles from home on.

Yeah baby, get that thing running! Good luck!
 
Mike B said:
Yeah, that sucks. I hope you get it running so you can get the next "happy time" when parts start falling off in the road.

Mine works, but I will never do another. I am very happy with it, it looks really cool, turns heads and makes people smile at me.

But too much frustration, too much tinkering and no confidence of it's reliability. Not something I'd want to get more than a few miles from home on.

Yeah baby, get that thing running! Good luck!
Click to expand...

Exactly.

My dad is 67 and has a bum shoulder from being in construction all his life, so if he has to say a prayer and cross his finger every time he wants to ride, I believe we'll just go with a 4 stroke/pull start deal for him.

He told me last night he'd pay whatever for a 4 stroke if it is reliable and starts well. So I am currently looking into that, because he REALLY wants a motorized bike like this for camp and lazy Sunday mornings
I still want to get that two stroke fired up and if I do, I'll most likely make that my bike and put a 4 stroker together for dad.

Just sucks, because he really wants this to happen, I'm the family's "mechanic" lol... and I am looking quite dumb ATM, because I can't get this thing to fire. I'd like him to be happy, but this damn thing won't run.

I''ll go through the Magneto tonight and see if that works... It's my last attempt though.
 
Nougat said:
So you know, the timing is fixed. The magnet is fixed in place by the key.

It's not out of the question that the magnet might be on backwards, too, now that I think of it ...
Click to expand...


The more I learn about these engines the more I believe it could very well be on backwards lol.

I'll take some good snapshots before I take things apart.

One thing I did notice is the magnet parts have some sort of metal flakes on them.. Seems somewhat dirty with a little metal flakage magnetized to it.
 
Air/Fuel Correct Ratio, The right (HOT BLUE & not weak orange) Spark, Good Compression, Correct Timing these are the only things needed for an internal combustion engine to start & run and of coarse no big air leaks.

Hang in there and get these things right with the engine you have and you will be riding that bike up & down the road soon....

Best wishes to you & your dad!

Peace
 
Got all done messing with the woodruff and magnet.

One thing I noticed is the magnet goes forward or backwards on the crank before it catches and turns the crank. This crappy video will show what I mean.

YouTube - Pieceofshit

I took it for a spin and now it will kinda feel like it has an air-lock and almost throw me over the bars. We even pulled it behind the lawn mower for half mile....still nothing.

I give up.
 
Nougat said:
I'm pretty sure that magnet is on backwards. Also, the looseness is bad, but it's supposed to be really pressed tight on the crank. If the nut was only finger tight, it needs to be torqued down good.

But before you do that, let me check my magnet to make sure I'm right about yours being backwards.
Click to expand...

The nut was tight, but the magnet, I pulled off with my fingers. Seems like the only thing resisting was the magnetic force. As in the video.. you can see me rock the magnet back and forth on the crank ... It is very loose.
 
Nougat said:
Darn. I popped my cover off but I can't see the keyway under the lockwasher. (Did you have a lockwasher under the nut?) So if someone could corroborate that the magnet keyway is supposed to be at "one o'clock" and not "eleven o'clock" that would be great.
Click to expand...


Yes..I have a lockwasher and the keyway can be seen after the nut and washer are removed although the keyway sits deep in the grove(I had to shine a light to see it in the slot.
 
Nougat said:
After we sort out which way the magnet keyway is supposed to go, you'll want to gently tap the magnet on the crank to seat it down, maybe with a large spark plug socket wrapped in a rag with a small hammer or mallet. Then tighten the nut and lockwasher down real good.
Click to expand...


I found an awesome tutorial on the Grubbe website



Great Magneto Mystery

It says keyway at 1 oclock with piston at TDC.

Seems that those mags are notorious for no start problems... I think I have isolated my problem.. Wish I had another mag to try.
 
Nougat said:
There you go then! All you have to do is pull the magnet off and flip it over! Do it now!
Click to expand...

I also found out that the advance and retard is adjustable by moving the slight play in the magnet rotor. So it moving a bit on the crank is normal.

I may have put to much advance in it when I put it back together.

But yes..it says put piston at TDC, keyway should be at 1oclock and rotor flats paralell with magneto arms.
 
flybytaco said:
eric change your spark plug they are really easy to foul esp pouring gas in the plug hole.
Click to expand...


I tried three spark plugs(NGK B6NS) including the original plug. nothing.

I confirmed the magneto is correct and I get a nice, blue spark. I take it out for a ride and pedal up to 10mph, get the engine rolling and I'll get a slight intermittent pop, but nothing that will keep it running. I pedaled until I literally had to stop and cough while trying to stand up being so dizzy.

Dad and I are going with another round of pulling it with the lawn mower(because I am TIRED of pedaling) and see if it will eventually kick in. If it doesn't this time...It's all I can do and I will be finished.

Sure wish I could find someone in my area that does these things.

Watertown, Evans Mills, Theresa area?? anyone?? please help lol.
 
Eric2.0 said:
I also found out that the advance and retard is adjustable by moving the slight play in the magnet rotor. So it moving a bit on the crank is normal.

I may have put to much advance in it when I put it back together.

But yes..it says put piston at TDC, keyway should be at 1oclock and rotor flats paralell with magneto arms.
Click to expand...
Eric,
If you're able to rotate the rotor (magnet) on the crankshaft, there's a problem. The woodruff key and the key ways should keep that rotor stationary. You should not be able to move it back and forth. Are you certain the key is in there? If so, check the keyway in the shaft and the rotor. One or the other might be cut too wide. Advancing and retarding the ignition too far could be your problem.
Tom
 
2door said:
Eric,
If you're able to rotate the rotor (magnet) on the crankshaft, there's a problem. The woodruff key and the key ways should keep that rotor stationary. You should not be able to move it back and forth. Are you certain the key is in there? If so, check the keyway in the shaft and the rotor. One or the other might be cut too wide. Advancing and retarding the ignition too far could be your problem.
Tom
Click to expand...

According to the grubee website, that is normal...

This.. http://www.grubeeinc.com/USA/images/110329/128.jpg

I do agree with you though, because not once have I seen a 2 stroke with so much slop in the keyway.
 
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