Oil mixture

[Eric2.0]

BTW it's a SD Stinger from 1 888 kit bikes.

Is the carb on mine the better one? I heard there is one that isn't so good.

 

[flybytaco]

to make the engine idle you need to turn the only screw you have clockwise till it seats and back it out about 2 turns go in or out from there after it runs.

 

[2door]

If you have only one adjustment screw then you're lucky and have the NT carburetor. The other one is notorious for causing problems.

I'm a little concerned about you wanting to get the engine running then sit and let it break in with the clutch disengaged. That's not the way to break in a new engine. It needs to be run and needs some load on it. Sitting for too long can cause an overheat condition due to the lack of air flowing over the cooling fins on the cylinder and cylinder head. Get it started then ride it. Don't baby it or it will take forever to seat the rings.
Good luck

 

[Mike B]

Mine started first time.

I didn't know that when it was happening though.

Pushed the prime, set the choke, pedaled down the road and popped the clutch.

So, I'm pedaling and the engine is just doing nothing and then I twist the grip and whoopie, the engine takes off.

Yeah, don't get it running and set it upside a tree. Ride the thing.

 

[Eric2.0]

If you have only one adjustment screw then you're lucky and have the NT carburetor. The other one is notorious for causing problems.

I'm a little concerned about you wanting to get the engine running then sit and let it break in with the clutch disengaged. That's not the way to break in a new engine. It needs to be run and needs some load on it. Sitting for too long can cause an overheat condition due to the lack of air flowing over the cooling fins on the cylinder and cylinder head. Get it started then ride it. Don't baby it or it will take forever to seat the rings.
Good luck

Yepp, it's confirmed NT, because it says on the plastic filter cover and has just a idle screw. Good tip on riding to break in, I thought letting it rev in place was better...Glad I know now, thanks.

Still no start.
Went down a nice hill and really got it turning over like mad, working the throttle, primer, choke....nothing happened. I pedaled till I really couldn't anymore.

Went home to check spark with plug out and it has spark...even dumped a little raw gas into the cylinder to see if it pops....still nothing. All I go tall day was a couple of jerks and a slightly warm cylinder head. I gave up for the day.

P.S. I RTV silioconed all the gaskets and put in o rings in the manifold and throttle screw cap on the carb.

 

[Eric2.0]

Here are some pictures that I took today after 4 hours trying to get it to run. As you can see, dad is looking frustrated lmao. It sucks not to get it going, because I try hard so he can ride the dang thing...oh well. It looks nice though, but that isn't good enough.

 

[Eric2.0]

Just to add:

When I used RTV orange sealant, was I suppose to leave the stock gaskets out?
Or only use the sealant?

 

[Mike B]

Yeah, that does look good.

Check the spark, that thing looks straight, it should run.

 

[Eric2.0]

Yeah, that does look good.

Check the spark, that thing looks straight, it should run.

I'm going to re-check ALL the wiring and mabey even cut off the cheap-ass bullets connectors and hardwire all of it together so there will be no questions.
The main plug wire is in question too, but seems it should work. I may re-do that too.

I think I'll take the manifold back off and omit the stock gaskets and only use RTV. Today I used RTV AND the gaskets together...Prolly wasn't suppose too.

It has spark, but perhaps it's not a good enough spark due to some bad wiring.

Will try again tomorrow and I'll tellya...I'm learning some hard lessons, but I guess it wil be worth it.

 

[Eric2.0]

Quick question: have you disconnected the kill switch yet? Made sure the white wire is capped? I recall a couple people having to replace the magneto, too, because it was just not right. If the teeny wires on the mag are sloppy, you may not be getting enough spark.

And ... What's your plug gap again? I have to think that if it sputters but doesn't stay running that it's a spark thing.

Have the kill switch connected. Capped white wire? How do I get to the MAG?

I have not played with spark plug gap yet.

 

[Eric2.0]

I'm actually sure it is the spark, because I can get a little "chug" sometimes and the head gets slightly warm. I poured raw(no oil) gas directly into the cylinder and still nothing.

Has to be the spark...

 

[Eric2.0]

The kill switch, the button by the throttle. Disconnect it completely. Black to black, blue to blue, white to nothing and make sure it's just taped over so it doesn't short anywhere.

Check your plug gap for sure, it's important. .030" is a good place to start, mine likes .026. If the gap is too wide, you may not be getting spark under compression even if the spark test with the plug out is good.

The magneto is under the left front engine cover, where the wires go. Don't worry about that quite yet.

The bullet connectors can be dodgy. Mine work well after I crimp them a bit and heatshrink. Lots of people strip and solder instead. You can strip and twist the wires together at least temporarily to eliminate the connectors as a problem.

Thanks a lot! You're help is greatly appreciated and I am pretty certain that you are correct, because I have not gapped the plug at all or disconnected the kill or anything you mentioned.

I'll try everything listed and I wrote it down on paper.

Thanks again.....hope is not lost!

 

[Eric2.0]

Also the plug was wet and the fuel bowl is full the gas flows out of the tank ect ect....it has gas fo rsure so it has to be a spark/wire thing.

I'm going to re-ground it too...

 

[mapbike]

I notice that in the 4th pick I can see that a GREEN wire is grounded to the frame under that screw you have screwed into that spacer for the front mount.

what is that wire hooked up too?

does it hook to the kill switch?

or does it come from the coil?

the reason I ask is that some kits have a green wire and a blue wire coming from the coil and if yours is that way then that geen wire is grounding the coil to the frame and causing your NOT firing issue.

But it isnt clear in the pic just where that wire is coming from so I could be completely wrong in thinking it is coming from the coil.

One wire from the kill switch should be connected to the blue wire from the coil and the other should be grounded to the frame..


best wishes I hope you're up and running real soon.

Peace

 

[Eric2.0]

I notice that in the 4th pick I can see that a GREEN wire is grounded to the frame under that screw you have screwed into that spacer for the front mount.

what is that wire hooked up too?

does it hook to the kill switch?

or does it come from the coil?

the reason I ask is that some kits have a green wire and a blue wire coming from the coil and if yours is that way then that geen wire is grounding the coil to the frame and causing your NOT firing issue.

But it isnt clear in the pic just where that wire is coming from so I could be completely wrong in thinking it is coming from the coil.

One wire from the kill switch should be connected to the blue wire from the coil and the other should be grounded to the frame..


best wishes I hope you're up and running real soon.

Peace

Good question and I do not know, I'll have to go look at it again. I believe the kill switch wire is the yellow and red one...

I'm all confused now so I'll have to go look again. I'm writing down this post on paper so I know what to look for tomorrow.

I'm pretty sure it has to be a ****ty wiring job... I can't wait to sit down and wire it up really nice in the morning.

I admit I sorta thew the wiing together yesterday out od being anxious lol.

 

[rohmell]

Here's a pic that might help you with the wiring:

 

[rohmell]

I like that you were able to get the motor-side chain installed without using the tensioner.

Maybe a half-link on the pedal side will get rid of the tensioner for good?
I like to equip my builds with a derailluer, so I don't have to worry about pedal side tension at all.

I like the cruiser style frame you have, Schwinn Landmark comes to mind of a cruiser type frame with derailluer

 

[Eric2.0]

Here's a pic that might help you with the wiring:

View attachment 35737

I see the picture that the white wire goes no place? this is what I want? just cap it? Then the kill switch wires go into the CDI box wires?
This is completely different from the manual's instruction.
I have a green and a yellow wire coming from the kill switch, green to frame ground and yellow into the white wire.

I like that you were able to get the motor-side chain installed without using the tensioner.

Maybe a half-link on the pedal side will get rid of the tensioner for good?
I like to equip my builds with a derailluer, so I don't have to worry about pedal side tension at all.

I like the cruiser style frame you have, Schwinn Landmark comes to mind of a cruiser type frame with derailluer

It's a Cranbrook and we couldn't get the pedal chain tight, because taking just one link out and it lacks just a hair in matching up to the link. We wanted to get this thing running so we just threw the tensioner on the pedal chain since it's just for startup. I'll try a half link later on, but for now I just want to get it running. After that, we are putting back the fender, chain guards and painting the tank the same color as well as the front motor mount.

Today I am going to completely rewire everything to a pro standard. Getting rid of those crappy bullet connectors....they suck big time.

 

[Eric2.0]

My wiring is like this...

CDI wires(black and blue) connect into the black and blue wires from motor. Kill switch wires(yellow and green) yellow to white wire on motor and green grounds to frame.

My wiring is drastically different from the above. I did it the way the manual said...

Good idea to throw out that manual isn't it? Nothing has been correct in it so far.

 

[Eric2.0]

Clip the kill switch wires off for the time being. If the kill switch is bad (and it might be), it may be drawing power from the mag, which is not allowing the CDI to generate a spark. And when/if you decide to wire them back together, splice one into the black and one into the blue. The kill switch will actually work that way.

Yepp, I'm getting ready to go and wire it all up a lot better. I did notice my bullet connectors really suck... I can pull them apart with hardly any effort. Even crimping doesn't work.

I'm going to test the kill the way you said, gap that plug to .30 and clip the kill wires right off.

If it fires up, I'll wire it the right way really nice.

I'll be back later with results.

Thanks for the help and I am sure this thread will help out other newbs out there.

So far the instruction book is worth nothing...thank god for this forum.