Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

What I found with my ruff feeling clutch handle is that I just supported at the handle bar center post and left the section coming from there to the engine just hanging out in a nice smooth curve. Doesn't get in the way and not effected while turning.
The chain idler I machine a new roller out of uhmw and put a one inch cam foller in it. ( that is a needle bearing with a 3/8" stud coming out of it)
 
1) If you are poor like me and needs to make perfect holes that kit Norm has looks way cool and easy,man. But you have no money so ride over to your local shooting gallery and collect some bullet shells in different sizes. Epic win with a hammer. Make sure they are spent,though.

2) That clutch mod. I'll post more. That bike is no more. MOOP2 is my reincarnation with this mod on there.
1 holder.JPG2 roller.JPG

3)Auto choke made with parts lying around. This clamp was a front derailer.
3woah.JPG

4) Replacement wire from NAPA. It's a solid steel wire inside. just about three bucks for the whole thing. The solid wire screws into the CDI really tight and it's 7 mm. The NAPA store I went to was a national distributor store so you may have some trouble finding it.
wire.JPG

I'll post a thread soon on my bikes. My 500 gig hard drive wiped out EVERYTHING other than my 200 gigs of music all my applications are gone too including the ones that manage my pics. All my pics are gone as well. :(
 
Large Filipino said:
1) If you are poor like me and needs to make perfect holes that kit Norm has looks way cool and easy,man. But you have no money so ride over to your local shooting gallery and collect some bullet shells in different sizes. Epic win with a hammer. Make sure they are spent,though.

2) That clutch mod. I'll post more. That bike is no more. MOOP2 is my reincarnation with this mod on there.
View attachment 1708View attachment 1707

3)Auto choke made with parts lying around. This clamp was a front derailer.
View attachment 1706

4) Replacement wire from NAPA. It's a solid steel wire inside. just about three bucks for the whole thing. The solid wire screws into the CDI really tight and it's 7 mm. The NAPA store I went to was a national distributor store so you may have some trouble finding it.
View attachment 1705

I'll post a thread soon on my bikes. My 500 gig hard drive wiped out EVERYTHING other than my 200 gigs of music all my applications are gone too including the ones that manage my pics. All my pics are gone as well. :(
Click to expand...

Yes sir, Large you were the man on that one. It was one of my favorite mods.
 

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Re: Keyed Ignition Switch Install take a tip...leave a tip

First off, I posted a little bit after Large Filipino above so dont miss his mod above.

Well, when I hear of a keyed ignition on a motored bicycle I smile and have to laugh. Keyed ignition? what for? If someone wants my bike their going to ride off with it, or throw it in the back of their truck, etc.etc. Ive always thought my toggle switch by my throttle was good enough. But then my wife says....since when, is "good enough", "good enough" for you?
Then I thought, ya! And what about the "hey man thats cool" factor that been with me since a kid. Well forget if it makes sense or not, I had to do it anyways.

First, It had to be slim. It had to be "out if the way". It had to match the bike. And, I had to keep my "toggled kill switch" by the throttle.

Next I had to find the proper keyed switch. I used the top one. I re-soldered thicker 18 ga wires to the switch posts.
Scooter Key Switch and Keyswitches from ElectricScooterParts.com

Then I had to find the correct mounting devise. Hum, what do I use?
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/01.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/03.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/04.jpg

Where do I put it?
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/02.jpg

What color do I make It?
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/08.jpg

How do I mount it?
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/09.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/10.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/13.jpg

How do i wire it, and how will the wires fit?
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/keyed_wire_diagram.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/11.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/12.jpg

How does it look?
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/16.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/15.jpg
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll13/grauchosbikes/13.jpg

I hope this sparks a few ideas for people. Feel free to swipe my design, or show me yours. graucho
 
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Re: Quick, cheap fix for leaky gas cap

A quick fix for a leaky gas cap is to put Vaseline on both side of the gas cap gasket.
 
If you get a flat miles from nowhere without a patch kit or even a pump try stuffing your tire with dirt and leaves. Get it on there good or it won't work.
 
hi all, I've taken lots of tips on the MB forums and I'll introduce myself properly in a while but here is a couple tips/troubleshooting solutions:

this refers to 66cc HT and related motors
1)center and tighten the rear sprocket while it's on the bike and the chain installed-the center whole on the sprocket may not be perfect and I've found chain tension the best way to make sure it is centered and true

2)we HT owners have a tendency to pull the plug and check to make sure everything is okay-the compression gasket is mostly a one time use and I was getting some blow by of anti-sieze and oil after a couple reinstalls. So, I made a gasket out of the same material I used for the intake manifold ( #1967 Asbestos Free NEA gasket material) from Checker autoparts. I make the center hole small enough so it has to be threaded on. this goes on after I put a copper washer. the plug sandwich is (plug, copper washer, gasket, head). No leakage and compression is great-I made a couple and put in tool kit.

jon
 
if your rear chain tentioner slips

find a couple bolts and lousen the mount. stick the bolts in the gaps around the bar

tighten the bolt back and it wont move it a bit
 
Thanks for the tip.
Exhaust refinement: I removed muffler and then removed end of muffler. Looking at the little holes in the plate inside the muffler, I opened them up with about a 3/8" drill bit and then drilled 2 more in an open area next to them. Then I cut off the small pipe so that it would still stick through the plate by about a 1/4". By the way, when I took the muffler apart, the small stinger pipe was half closed with metal shavings. I then trimmed the pipe entrance, using my 3000 rpm electric drill and a carbide burr, to better fit the exhaust port (a dremel would work just as well). This all seemed to make the engine breathe a little better. my next change will probably be to trim a crescent shaped notch in the rear of the piston skirt, so that the intake port opens completely
 
You can also make a head gasket out of aluminum sheet metal available from tractor supply for $6 (same cost as 1 replacement from ebay). The sheet is large enough to make like 8 gaskets and is the same material and thickness as the original. This way you retain your piston to head clearance from the factory and can make many more gaskets in the future from the same sheet...
 
I had my exhaust gasket blow out on me at 400 miles, so I bought a small piece of thick sheet copper and made the replacement out of that and annealed it (that makes it soft again so it will conform to the joint) with a pocket torch before installing it
 
Oily exhaust and brakes don't mix. I posted a question about this elsewhere in this forum but didn't get a reply. The mufflers on these little 2 cycles are all about the same so I know I'm not the only one to experience oil from the exhaust getting on the rear rim and reducing the friction of the brake pads. Even after break-in when we reduce the oil percentage they're still 2 cycle motors and will have oil in the exhaust. Originally I had considered making an extension to the exhaust stinger on the outlet of my muffler that would run along the chain stay and exit well to the rear to get the exhaust away from the rim but I solved the problem with a simpler solution that only took minutes to do.
I used a copper plumbing fitting correctly refered to as a 45 degree street L. I cut two slits in the unswedged end of the fitting, much like your carburator has on the manifold side, and used a standard stainless steel screw type clamp to secure the fitting to my muffler. Before tightening the clamp I turned the fitting so the exhaust was routed out and away from the rear rim. Before this simple mod I was cleaning my rim and brake pads after every ride with brake-wash (solvent) but now after riding my bike a week the rim is dry and oil free. The cost was nothing because I had the parts laying around but if you buy them the cost should be under $2.00. The attached pictures show the process you'll need to do. I'm sure the old hands here will find this very elementry but to newbies, like me, it might be something that could save them some grief. Plus it's a sure safety issue.
For those unfamiliar with plumbing fittings the first photo is a comparison between a street L and a standard L. One end of a street L is not swedged.
The second pic is of cutting the slit in the unswedged end after measuring the length of your exhaust outlet pipe. Don't make the slit deeper than the pipe is long or you'll have a leak. I used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel but a hacksaw will work too. The slit ideally should have a slight taper to it. Wider at the open end so it can be compressed to fit the outside diameter of the exhaust pipe of your muffler.
The remaining photos show the parts and the final installation.
Good luck and enjoy your dry brakes.
 

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