Dump Find!!!
- Thread starter Bike Monster
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- help if its worth it
Well the banquet went well... it was alot of fun!
in the pic i'm the one circled in green
Dude!...lose the tie an the HAT!...ya look like that Bieber tool.....your a "biker"...get with the program....beard...tats......ponytail....greasy jeans....vest....comon'man!!!!!!!!!!
O Rlly? Pee Wee rocks the bike dude...
JK
OK I a m off to Missouri see you all on Saturday when I get home.
lol not all us wear that harley sh*t hahaha thats this ole boy in the pic here by the way
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some pics... 2nd pic is just below the seat, 3rd is a close up of the saddle, and 4th is where the head-badge is supposed to go...
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hey!....i never saw a hat with a pull chain on it before?...ya'all got some led's in the brim or sumthin?...........couldn't resist.....lol not all us wear that harley sh*t hahaha thats this ole boy in the pic here by the way
By "Springer Fork" I think you are referring to the truss bars. That's not really an indicator of age. Truss bars are common on working bikes of all ages...and all nations.
They actually have no spring action. The small springs at the top are just to ease installation.
Alright i have some questions... 1. what is the best way to clean a chain, 2. What is the best way to clean rust, and 3. how should i restore the seat???
I got some steel wool today so i will start clean the rust soon...
I got some steel wool today so i will start clean the rust soon...
how bad iz the chain rusted? sumtimes wd-40 will work. cleaning rust..alot of sanding and maybe a brilo pad might do. the seat i dont know. still would like to run across 1 of those bikes myself
hahahaha its kool man no offence taken
nahh aint none on that hat. **** its been too cold to wear that thang lately. highs been in the 30s and i still ride
Please please please... buy a new chain, the $11 or $12 bucks isnt worth it, its a safety thing.
Id go with real replateing, that "chrome" paint wont give you a real chrome look, and it smudges very easilly.
As far as paint goes, consider going over to an automotive paint suppiler and see if they have something acceptable all ready mixed, Ive lucked out several times like that.
Once upon a time haveing replacement decals made was a giant pain in the keester, but now with all the optical/digital capeabilities most photo shops have these days its cheaper than you might think.
I had my local print shop make up a full set of decals for a 1984 Harley Davidson XR 1000 Sportster from close digital photos! they were perfect! Even the judges at the bike show asked were I got them.
keep em rolling
BBB
Id go with real replateing, that "chrome" paint wont give you a real chrome look, and it smudges very easilly.
As far as paint goes, consider going over to an automotive paint suppiler and see if they have something acceptable all ready mixed, Ive lucked out several times like that.
Once upon a time haveing replacement decals made was a giant pain in the keester, but now with all the optical/digital capeabilities most photo shops have these days its cheaper than you might think.
I had my local print shop make up a full set of decals for a 1984 Harley Davidson XR 1000 Sportster from close digital photos! they were perfect! Even the judges at the bike show asked were I got them.
keep em rolling
BBB
I think you'll find re chroming to be very expensive and while I like the bike, it would be a hard thing to justify spending all that money on. If it were me I wouldn't repaint it or replace the decals. That should clean up very nicely with the finest grade of steel wool and a light touch with wd-40 saturating the steel wool. WD-40 is a crappy penetrating oil, but works great bringing out the luster on old paint. A amin ingrediant is fish oil and it is also useful for bringing back old leather. I think new paint and new decals, new chrome and you will have less, rather than more. That's just me. It isn't a new bike and is nicer because it isn't and has age and wear giving it character and history. I've experimented some with cleaning up lightly rusted chrome with fine steel wool followed with clear coat. Seems to work pretty well, but time will tell. The price is right...
As for the rusted chain, it depends on how badly it is rusted. Does it not want to track around the sprockets because it is rusted together or does it function ok, but looks rusty? If it is mostly cosmetic you can remove the chain and soak it in motor oil. When it has soaked well, perhaps for several days, remove it and clean the excess oil off with a rag. If the links all seem to work freely you should be OK. If some want to stay stuck together you can work them loose, but might be better off buying new chain. Once you strip off the paint you're committed to a lot of work and may end up disappointed with the result. I would suggest trying some restoration on a small section and see if you like what a light touch, fine steel wool and WD-40 can do.
SB
As for the rusted chain, it depends on how badly it is rusted. Does it not want to track around the sprockets because it is rusted together or does it function ok, but looks rusty? If it is mostly cosmetic you can remove the chain and soak it in motor oil. When it has soaked well, perhaps for several days, remove it and clean the excess oil off with a rag. If the links all seem to work freely you should be OK. If some want to stay stuck together you can work them loose, but might be better off buying new chain. Once you strip off the paint you're committed to a lot of work and may end up disappointed with the result. I would suggest trying some restoration on a small section and see if you like what a light touch, fine steel wool and WD-40 can do.
SB
1. Rusted Chrome- Ditto on what Silverbear said. WD-40 and steel wool works beautifully.Spray it on the rusted chrome and then scrub lightly with the WD-40. Wipe off with a towel.
Doing Battle with Rust - The Flying Pigeon Project
2. As for the paint...simple. Use black shoe polish like you would normal car wax. Kiwi is good. From what I can see, your bike does not need a repaint.
Dirty Bikes and Beer - The Flying Pigeon Project
3. Now about that seat. While it is "leather" it is likely a compressed leather composite. Chips of leather put into a mold and bonded together. You can try to doctor it, but I doubt this will work.....or just get a new one cheap from Flying Pigeon Los Angeles or from a number of websites selling the Indian equivalent.
4. The chain. Get a new one.
BTW: There are Forever headbadges on E-bay occasionally. They may not be original to your bike, but still better than nothing. This one currently on e-bay is actually for the rear fender and not a headbadge.
http://cgi.ebay.com/China-Bicycle-H...284?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b738c02c
-JS
The Flying Pigeon Project
Doing Battle with Rust - The Flying Pigeon Project
2. As for the paint...simple. Use black shoe polish like you would normal car wax. Kiwi is good. From what I can see, your bike does not need a repaint.
Dirty Bikes and Beer - The Flying Pigeon Project
3. Now about that seat. While it is "leather" it is likely a compressed leather composite. Chips of leather put into a mold and bonded together. You can try to doctor it, but I doubt this will work.....or just get a new one cheap from Flying Pigeon Los Angeles or from a number of websites selling the Indian equivalent.
4. The chain. Get a new one.
BTW: There are Forever headbadges on E-bay occasionally. They may not be original to your bike, but still better than nothing. This one currently on e-bay is actually for the rear fender and not a headbadge.
http://cgi.ebay.com/China-Bicycle-H...284?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b738c02c
-JS
The Flying Pigeon Project
yeah i hear ya on the coldness.....artic air sweepin down ....Wrath of Sarah Palin"......hauntin the South!..........hahahaha its kool man no offence taken
Alrighty... thanks so much for the reply's guys... 1rst off the chain, i don't think it is rusty just really greasy and dirty... 2nd i will definitely try that steel wool with wd-40... third where can i get a seat like the one that's one it???
Here's how I remove rust from small parts, IE nuts, bolts, small brackets, widgets, ect.
It works surprisingly well.
1. Remove any and all oil, grease, ect from the item.
2. Mix up a solution of 50% white vinegar and 50% lemon juice.
3. Submerge the item to be de-rusted in the solution for at least 24 hours. You can go longer if necessary, but I have yet to find the need to do so.
If you cannot retrieve the part from the solution for a few days due to life getting in the way, it will do no harm. The solution seems to be quite gentle to the base metal as well as chrome or zinc plating.
4. Wash the item in warm soapy (I use dish soap) water to remove the black film that will form on the surface. It basically wipes off easily. I have never needed to scrub vigorously.
5. Immediately dry the item and oil it to prevent flash rust from forming.
If you plan on painting the item, do NOT oil it! I have found that dunking the item in a treatment such as Metal Treat (sold in the automotive paint section as a surface preparer) works absolutely awesome. Follow the instructions on the metal treatment label for proper application. Metal treat will convert flash rust as well as the exposed cleaned outer surface of the steel or iron item into iron phosphate which prevents further flash rust and gives the surface a really good tooth for the paint or primer to adhere to.
It works surprisingly well.
1. Remove any and all oil, grease, ect from the item.
2. Mix up a solution of 50% white vinegar and 50% lemon juice.
3. Submerge the item to be de-rusted in the solution for at least 24 hours. You can go longer if necessary, but I have yet to find the need to do so.
If you cannot retrieve the part from the solution for a few days due to life getting in the way, it will do no harm. The solution seems to be quite gentle to the base metal as well as chrome or zinc plating.
4. Wash the item in warm soapy (I use dish soap) water to remove the black film that will form on the surface. It basically wipes off easily. I have never needed to scrub vigorously.
5. Immediately dry the item and oil it to prevent flash rust from forming.
If you plan on painting the item, do NOT oil it! I have found that dunking the item in a treatment such as Metal Treat (sold in the automotive paint section as a surface preparer) works absolutely awesome. Follow the instructions on the metal treatment label for proper application. Metal treat will convert flash rust as well as the exposed cleaned outer surface of the steel or iron item into iron phosphate which prevents further flash rust and gives the surface a really good tooth for the paint or primer to adhere to.
Okay i did some cleaning today with steel wool and a equivalent to WD-40, It worked really good!!!!
Flying Pigeon Project where on the internet can i find the Indian seats???
Flying Pigeon Project where on the internet can i find the Indian seats???