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bairdco

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
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living the dream in southern california
what they're trying to describe on the rims, is the way the "rod brakes" work, the pads are connected to a horseshoe shaped piece. when the lever's pulled, the linkage pulls the horseshoe straight up, and the pads rub on the underside of the rim, not on the sides like conventional rim brakes.

the rims have to have a flat enough surface area so the pads can fit in without going into the spokes.

as far as the width, if you were thinking of doing away with the rod system altogether and using a standard sized tire, the only way to know for sure is to try it. if you tried to just measure it, you need to know the exact width of the tire you're using, and the measurement from the axle to the top of the tire. all tires have slightly different shapes and widths due to different tread patterns.

i have a Sukiri japanese bicycle that's similar, and it came with 26x1 3/8 tires. i converted it to 26x2.125 wheels, and used old "drop center" rims from the 40's, and i'm pretty sure i can modify the rod brake pads to work. my main concern is if they're too close to the spokes, they might turn in and get jammed, flipping me over the bars.

i'll post some pics when i can...
 
S

shiloh0

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Jun 28, 2008
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ive been wanting to know how to make these decals for awhile now, great for restoring car engines and parts too, thanks for this valuable info marksumpter
 
bairdco

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
tire changes are no big deal, just loosen the pads on the front and they come right off. no harder than any other bike with rim brakes.

on the front, that is...

the wrap-around chainguard is a real pain if your chain comes off, or you want to replace one.

they back of the guard flips up on the end so you can remove the wheel, but depending on the bike and what the drop-outs are like, you might have to pull the chain off the front sprocket.

they usually come with a circle that screws on to cover the front sprocket which you have to remove, but mine's missing (and i think the rear piece is missing on bike monster's.)

to put the chain back on mine, i had to stick a coat hanger inside, hook the chain and pull it through.

not that big of a deal if you think it out beforehand, but a roadside repair might leave you kicking rocks...
 
Bike Monster

Bike Monster

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Jun 4, 2010
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Conneticut
bairdco said:
tire changes are no big deal, just loosen the pads on the front and they come right off. no harder than any other bike with rim brakes.

on the front, that is...

the wrap-around chainguard is a real pain if your chain comes off, or you want to replace one.

they back of the guard flips up on the end so you can remove the wheel, but depending on the bike and what the drop-outs are like, you might have to pull the chain off the front sprocket.

they usually come with a circle that screws on to cover the front sprocket which you have to remove, but mine's missing (and i think the rear piece is missing on bike monster's.)...
Click to expand...
Actually i do have that piece theres a pic on post #39...
 
happycheapskate

happycheapskate

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Nov 26, 2009
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Rockwall TX
So what's your opinion of the brakes' effectiveness? Do you have old or new pads? Where do you get replacement pads (can you use common generic bike or road bike pads?)

So much talk says these brakes stink and convention says shiny steel rims are powerless in the wet. What is your experience?
 
bairdco

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
my bike came with the front rod brake and a rear 3 speed expander brake. the rear hub was shot, and the front pads were decayed to the point of being chalk.

i had an old Raleigh years back with front and rear rod brakes, and they worked pretty good. probably as well as any cheap ten speed with sidepull calipers, anyway. nothing compared to today's discs or a high quality v brake, but i wouldn't expect them to, being 100 year old technology.

don't remember how mine worked in the wet.

"new" brake pads are almost impossible to find here, and NOS ones on ebay are pretty spendy.

i figured out an angled shim system to use regular pads, just haven't made them yet. my bike's just a beater i cleaned up. dunno if i'll bother with a motor. if i do, it's gonna be a low-speed cruiser, though...
 
happycheapskate

happycheapskate

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Nov 26, 2009
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Rockwall TX
I like the idea of shimming the blocks, but what about regular v-brake pads? Do the brake arms/horseshoes have similar slots or holes for the brake pads?

$2.50 a pair, Diamondback Softee BMX brake shoes, v-brake style but short. They have regular for $3. They are supposed to be softer compound for increased performance.

Can you cold-work the brake arms to realign them some for regular modern shoes?

$2 common style brake pads (blocks with threaded posts)
 
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happycheapskate

happycheapskate

New Member
Nov 26, 2009
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Rockwall TX
Last edited:
bairdco

bairdco

a guy who makes cool bikes
Aug 18, 2009
6,537
264
63
living the dream in southern california
i dunno about the link, it sounds like the guy's only problem was his regular side-pull brake's hole was too small for the new pads.

the deal is, the pads on a rod brake bike point straight up and contact the inner surface of the rim, not the sides.

the "stirrup" could be bent i suppose, but if it broke, you're screwed, and my biggest concern especially with a motor, is the brake pads coming loose and getting stuck in the spokes. if you bent the arms in, you'd have something even more solid to jam up in your wheel.

i think a nice fat brake pad might work, in the way that when it pulled up into the rim, it would have enough meat on the top to work. know what i mean? like you'd be using the top of the pad instead of the side.

i think my shim idea will work. basically two triangles, one on either side, adjusted so the pads point upwards. might have to sand the pad down so it doesn't contact the rim on an angle, but i know i can figure it out.

or...hmmm, maybe even a rotating ball and socket joint?
 
happycheapskate

happycheapskate

New Member
Nov 26, 2009
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Rockwall TX
I'd try the really tall brake shoes, the cheaper the better. They probably will work very well. Think of all the cheap single-wall rimmed walmart bikes that these blocky pads work on, where the rims wear them down at almost a 45 degree angle (using the cheapest caliper brakes. So surely they will work just fine for this bike, and when they wear out, its only $2 worth. If you check with a bicycle shop, they might have a box full of them for next to nothing (spare parts bin).
 
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