Hi silverbear. I think it is a Puch front fork. I'm working with oppanoia on his build and his is definitely a Puch. Most bicycle fork necks are 1"-24tpi, or 1 inch diameter with 24 threads per inch. Over the years I've collected a large amount of used bicycle steering head cups, bearings and cones and can usually come up with a combination that fits with no modifications other than maybe a spacer washer. We rethreaded the forks on oppanoia's because they were so close to standard, it was just a simple matter to run my die over them. Years ago I purchased a 1''-24 adjustable die just for chasing and rethreading bicycle fork necks. I've used it many times because you know how some forks get beat up and the cones won't thread on easily. Or the neck is too long and I can cut it down and add threads. I have always used 26'' wheels with moped forks as most have plenty of room. I usually need to take the legs apart and put a 1'' spacer above the spring so they won't hit the tire when collapsed. They come apart very easily for painting and offer a great ride with an inch or so of travel. The only problem is front fender mounting may be a challenge. The lower legs on most moped forks have frender brace mounting bosses or brackets either threaded or drilled through. Obviously a fender mounted on the lower legs will move with the wheel, while mounting to the bottom of the lower triple tree would not. I haven't used a front fender on any of my bikes using moped forks because of the overall look I was after. You may need a bit of extra clearance obtained by a longer spacer added to the inside. The forks have plenty of engagement allowing spacers without weakening. I highly recommend getting the front drum brake that goes with the forks you use. They lace right into a 26'' bicycle wheel using cross four pattern and standard length (around 10 5/8'' long) spokes. A friend of mine used the cups, bearings and cones that came off the moped with his forks on a 50's Schwinn. He's a machinist and he just made spacer bushings to enlarge the cups to fit. I like the little headlamp brackets on most forks. You can get the light that goes with them or go with an aftermarket unit. I like the headlights with the built in speedo and ignition switch. Lots of choices out there. Moped controls are very good for motorized bike projects. They offer brake, throttle, choke and stoplight all on the right side and are usually straight pull cables that follow the handlebars. The left side has brake and compression release levers and another stoplight switch. Very clean and you can use grips of your choice. Hopes this info helps. What really helps is having a moped shop within driving distance. I can just go to Myron's Mopeds of Fullerton and measure what I need. I have purchased several forks on ebay also. Let us know what you decide to go with.
Another B&S bike
- Thread starter msrfan
- Start date
I want to thank you sincerely for taking the time to answer my questions. That is an information filled post and just what I wanted to know. I'm sure that as others see moped forks being used they will see the great value in going that way, too.Just this morning I placed a want ad in my local weekly paper for an old moped, parts or whole, running or not to see what turns up. This is a good time of year to buy a moped in northern Minnesota. Ha. Boats, too. It is spitting snow today, so I think the value of that old moped out in the shed drops daily along with the temperature. Come spring it increases in value. I may try again also just before and after Christmas. It will be interesting to see what I find. both trash and treasures, I suspect. To possibly get a suspension fork, hub with drum brake, speedometer and headlight all in one shot makes a hundred bucks or less go a long way. And it might be if it is a whole moped you might be able to list unwanted items on ebay and recoup part or all of thehundred bucks. But mostly what I want is a good front end, more than a good deal. I thank you sir, and will indeed let you know what I find.
SB
SB
Totally my pleasure silverbear. Ebay's a great idea for sellling your extra parts. I've had no trouble getting rid of any 70's moped stuff. There's always someone out there restoring and in need of parts. The rear drum brake hubs with a bolted on sprocket are also cool, but it may not line up with a chinese motor because they're so outboard of center.
Ah, but it might line up nicely with a fatboy motor like the Harbor Freight Greyhound. Number of teeth on the sprocket might be all wrong, though. But another sprocket ground out to fit might work. Have to see one in person, so to speak. Thanks for all the great ideas. Love your bikes.
SB
SB
I love it. no air shroud looks great. might do that to mine. if I turn the fins off my fly wheel does less weight affect anything?
The motor revs slightly faster, but that's about the only difference I've found. Cooling is not affected. Static balancing works well. I really like your Dad's bike. A lot of great detailing.
Msrfan - I found this Honda in that garage the other day, I was thinking about the clean flywheel (chuck the fins). Also a candidate for a bike it is a flow through engine so the exhaust would be out the front. I need to measure it and see how wide it is. Just another victim for a bike. Have fun Dave
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I want to thank you again for the moped donor information. I have since found my first victim, a 1980 AMF with good front fork and good wheels, brakes work, etc. I was going to remove everything to use on a Schwinn cantilever?Greyhound build later this winter but then got to staring at that weird little moped, removed the gas tank, set a used HT motor in place and discovered it is plug and play, as if they were made for each other. The problem with it was that the AMF was a rear wheel friction drive setup with no sprocket on the rear wheel for the engine to line up with. Then I got to looking at the photos of the rear hub you posted above and realized I can drill holes and mount a sprocket on there without a problem (I think). I'll find another donor for the Schwinn project having now developed moped radar. Many thanks. The little AMF Roadmaster will be a participant in the Rustoration 2.0 buildoff this winter... super low budget. I'm still hoping to use a rear moped hub to rebuild into a wheel specifically for the Schwinn/Greyhound motor which is wide and would allow me then to center the engine. I have a couple great 52 Schwinn rims to lace moped drums to. Do you have a source you'd recommend for 12 gauge spokes?
SB
SB
Looks like a vertical crankshaft. Make sure it oils when you get it positioned in the frame.
Hey silverbear. Sounds like a cool ride. Never seen a friction drive moped. Any photos? Here's another rear hub with bolt on sprocket, but it came off of a single chain moped and has no provision for pedal starting if used on a bicycle. Just showing what's out there.
Here are photos of the AMF Roadmaster, 1980 which I paid $45.00 for thinking I would get the front fork and wheel out of it and might be able to sell something else from it. It was originally underpowered with a McCullough motor probably made for a chainsaw. It is the only American made moped and is the brunt of jokes in the moped community. The engine fit under the rear rack and was friction drive, capable of a blazing 15mph. This one had the original motor removed and in its place is some kind of motor mount made for bicycles with a two cycle motor bolted to it, which looks much like a weed whacker engine to me. I think I can sell that unit and recoup my $45.00. I removed the gas tank and set a used HT motor in there and it doesn't even need any adaptation to the mounts. Just tighten it down, so that pretty well convinced me to proceed with this as it's own build, not for me but to sell next summer to some rich tourist's kid. Brakes work and wheels cleaned up nicely, throttle works. I have a dual pull brake lever so I can run both drum brakes from the right handle and clutch at the left. Think I'll gear the driven sprocket for top speed of 30mph or even a little less. I've since changed the seat and once I get to my winter place will strip it down, paint it, assemble and call it done. The missing part of the equation was the driven sprocket... how to attach it since the hub is 5" in diameter and I had been thinking of some kind of rag joint since it didn't come with a sprocket. Your photo solved that problem... so this little mutant moped should work OK and will make some kid happy. It has 16" rims and counting the tires comes out to a little over 20" in diameter. Now I'm looking for another donor for the Schwinn/Greyhound. Thanks again for turning me on to moped parts.
SB
SB
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I beleive you can get heavy spokes from Wheelworks in Garden Grove, Ca. Here's the link.
wheelworks garden grove - Google Search
wanted to post a picture of my home made briggs and stratton bike
but i was too big and iam not waisting time reasizing when this site should do it
why should every individual have to rezie pictures when a simple program
on this site could save everyone so much time
but i was too big and iam not waisting time reasizing when this site should do it
why should every individual have to rezie pictures when a simple program
on this site could save everyone so much time
That's too bad, as I would really like to see your build. This site doesn't have such a program, but it is still a great site. It is as it is. Is yours a five horse?
SB
mine started off as a 3 and 1/2 hp vertical shaft lawnmowerhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C9JY5klARE
and after $10 and some sweat there it is
and after $10 and some sweat there it is
msrfan - I still love the way your bikes look. It is also not just something you could just order the kit for. I found a place that has a neat looking tank for a good deal, check it out. You seem to have a ready supply of parts, I also like the B&S stickers. Have fun, Dave
puch ranger new black gas tank
puch ranger new black gas tank
