Firebird, Silverbear's Worksman Cruiser
- Thread starter silverbear
- Start date
So the bag I admired so much is now a seat cover. Perfect.
The side car is looking as we had talked about all along. Wish I could get back to help some more but by the time I get back from all the stops along the way I hope you will be in Delaware.
The Indian decal is the perfect finishing touch just as you said it would be.
You have created a work of art in my opinion and I hope this inspires others to build one.
Steve.
The side car is looking as we had talked about all along. Wish I could get back to help some more but by the time I get back from all the stops along the way I hope you will be in Delaware.
The Indian decal is the perfect finishing touch just as you said it would be.
You have created a work of art in my opinion and I hope this inspires others to build one.
Steve.
Thank you guys. The sidecar tire arrived today and is now mounted. It is 2.10 in width and is white and not cream like the bike tires, but was the best I could do. I did find some new old stock 3" wide tires in street tread on ebay and they sounded great. Then I got a heads up from Barely regarding NOS white tires, that he had heard of checking problems. Sure enough, I asked the seller if there was any evidence of checking and he said there was, but they looked great anyway. That might be OK if the sidecar just sat looking pretty, but this is going traveling with my little buddy inside. I found some BMX type in white and 2.125, but they were all knobby tread. I figured a street tread was worth going with a slightly narrower tire, new and not new old stock. The bike is in the first coats of the cream color and looks pretty nice. Not as nice as if Fasteddy or 2door was running the rattle can, but I'm doing OK. It is going to get scratched and scraped anyway since I plan to ride the heck out of it, so there will be touch ups as a kind of routine bike maintenance. Tomorrow I hope to get the final coats sanded and laid down then have to decide whether to go with clear coat or not. What do you think, anyone? I admit to not being much of a painter. I guaranteed a different color and it is... also that it would look good from a distance and it will. It is what it is and I need to get this bike together. I still have a lot of small things to finish up... some bead work on the hand grips, a raven feather fan 'flag'... a stained and clear glass lens for the headlight... dragon fly wings for the jewel torpedo fender running light. I still don't know if I'm going to try to disguise or dress up the CDI unit (yes, Barely, I was thinking copper) what to do about the inline gas filter. Copper & glass would be nice, but the outlet from the tank would be lower than the inlet and copper loop for the glass fuel filter, so that's no good. Maybe disguise the plastic inline filter (yes, Barely, I was thinking of using copper). I was also talking to CurtisFox about a fold down top for the sidecar, like on a model T Ford... the realized the bows from a baby buggy might work... or possibly use the top framework from the kiddie trailer. But not now. Maybe not all of the little things will be done before it is time to head east for Maryland, Delaware, "to infinity and beyond!" I still have to rebuild a utility trailer into a covered bike hauler, a bikemobile, to haul bikes upright and tools, belongings, etc. I started on that yesterday. I have just about one month and have to be on the road. I can do it.
SB
SB
"(yes, Barely, I was thinking copper)"
"(yes, Barely, I was thinking of using copper)"
Whadda tryin' ta say lol
Less thinkin' - moar pics
TBH I had a heck of a time "disguising" my CDI, I used a... erm... whassit called...
You made me google o.o
Anyhoo, the capacitor cover of a 1HP electric utility engine (stole it offn my drill press actually) drilled to let the plug wire through, I'm not completely happy with it & I'm still lookin' to find something better... have you considered mekano's http://motorbicycling.com/f38/vintage-cdi-12446.html trick?
BTW, a fold down top for yer sidecar would be incredible! Such a finishing touch on an already great sidecar would really be gorgeous, as well as handy - yer fuzzy friend would have that big ol' puppy grin as yer gettin' soaked & he's stayin' nice and dry lol... or just the groceries, which don't tend to gloat as much
Actually, speakin' of the "poor man's gold", boats & water - I'm assuming you've got that sidecar pretty well buttoned up & rain water may prove to be a problem as it's not the easiest thing in the world to drain... I suppose ya could just drill a hole as yer nor worried about sinking - but there's these lil guys if yer lookin for more brass;
Opentip.com: SeaSense DRAIN PLUG GARBOARD BRASS 50032282 $5.08 - they usually go square in the middle of the bottommost part of the stern... and there'd be no need to ever actually put the plug in *shrug*
"(yes, Barely, I was thinking of using copper)"
Whadda tryin' ta say lol Less thinkin' - moar pics
TBH I had a heck of a time "disguising" my CDI, I used a... erm... whassit called...You made me google o.o
Anyhoo, the capacitor cover of a 1HP electric utility engine (stole it offn my drill press actually) drilled to let the plug wire through, I'm not completely happy with it & I'm still lookin' to find something better... have you considered mekano's http://motorbicycling.com/f38/vintage-cdi-12446.html trick?
BTW, a fold down top for yer sidecar would be incredible! Such a finishing touch on an already great sidecar would really be gorgeous, as well as handy - yer fuzzy friend would have that big ol' puppy grin as yer gettin' soaked & he's stayin' nice and dry lol... or just the groceries, which don't tend to gloat as much
Actually, speakin' of the "poor man's gold", boats & water - I'm assuming you've got that sidecar pretty well buttoned up & rain water may prove to be a problem as it's not the easiest thing in the world to drain... I suppose ya could just drill a hole as yer nor worried about sinking - but there's these lil guys if yer lookin for more brass;
Opentip.com: SeaSense DRAIN PLUG GARBOARD BRASS 50032282 $5.08 - they usually go square in the middle of the bottommost part of the stern... and there'd be no need to ever actually put the plug in *shrug*
Last edited:
Barely,
Regarding the folding top, if you look at the picture below of the canoe you can see how it tapers forward of the seat, so a baby buggy top probably wouldn't work with this sidecar, but it would be cool to build a sidecar with it in mind to use one from an old baby buggy. I will be on the lookout...
However, I think that the top framing from a kiddie trailer could be made to work since the back upper bar could easily be sectioned to the width of the stern and the front could follow the taper of the canoe. I was picturing the sides of the same shape, possibly not so high and covered in birch bark with clear "windows" like the original ones. The rest could be fabric which would snap on as the original did, but made of maybe black Naugahyde. It could also have a little screened oval window in back and in front the same kind of arrangement with mesh screen and a roll down clear vinyl 'window'. That sounds like a winter project to me. Now take a look at the bike again, specifically the blank spot right behind the gas tank. I like the tank, but not the blank spot. Something needs to go in there. I had wanted to figure a way to use copper line and a glass bowled fuel filter for a kind of old time look, but it won't work in the blank spot since the line coming out of the tank is lower than the line going in to the fuel filter. And there's no room where the engine is. So, it won't work. However, I think I have made the solution to this little problem (and it is COPPER)... go to the next page and see...
(cont.)
Regarding the folding top, if you look at the picture below of the canoe you can see how it tapers forward of the seat, so a baby buggy top probably wouldn't work with this sidecar, but it would be cool to build a sidecar with it in mind to use one from an old baby buggy. I will be on the lookout...
However, I think that the top framing from a kiddie trailer could be made to work since the back upper bar could easily be sectioned to the width of the stern and the front could follow the taper of the canoe. I was picturing the sides of the same shape, possibly not so high and covered in birch bark with clear "windows" like the original ones. The rest could be fabric which would snap on as the original did, but made of maybe black Naugahyde. It could also have a little screened oval window in back and in front the same kind of arrangement with mesh screen and a roll down clear vinyl 'window'. That sounds like a winter project to me. Now take a look at the bike again, specifically the blank spot right behind the gas tank. I like the tank, but not the blank spot. Something needs to go in there. I had wanted to figure a way to use copper line and a glass bowled fuel filter for a kind of old time look, but it won't work in the blank spot since the line coming out of the tank is lower than the line going in to the fuel filter. And there's no room where the engine is. So, it won't work. However, I think I have made the solution to this little problem (and it is COPPER)... go to the next page and see...
(cont.)
Attachments
...yes it is poor man's gold, copper! That's 1 " copper water pipe coupling (about 1 1/8" actually) with 1" pipe sections inside and copper ends. The ends have outlets of 1/4" copper tubing which runs through another inch or so inside the end, same at both ends. The inlet is down low and the outlet is offset to the side in case I run out of room. Compression fittings join the tank through a brass shutoff valve to the filter and out to a copper line which will be looped lower and go to the carb and I suppose joined there with a bit of vinyl tubing as you did with your glass bowl filter. Inside the copper "filter" is a very cool little filter of see through plastic with a brass screened cylinder inside. It was sent to me by Pablo and Ghosto of Sick Bike Parts along with the expansion pipe and custom air filter. Thank you guys! I just hope it works and will know tomorrow. So inside the tube is the 1/4" tube and a short section of gas line is pushed on to it and also on to the SBP gas filter. The other end of the filter is the same, so theoretically fuel is passing through the inlet through the filter and through the outlet. Here's were things could go wrong. I "spot welded" two places at each end with silver solder to hold it together. I don't think there was enough heat to wreck anything inside, but won't know for sure until I hook a gas tank to it and see if there is any leaking. If there is, I'll order another one and try again. I like it and it should help to fill in the blank spot. Copper & brass, Barely!
The other night I made the brake light which will go behind the seat and kind of repeats the theme set by the gas tank and head light of cylinders covered in harness leather. If you go to the next page there's some more copper stuff...
(Cont.)
The other night I made the brake light which will go behind the seat and kind of repeats the theme set by the gas tank and head light of cylinders covered in harness leather. If you go to the next page there's some more copper stuff...
(Cont.)
Attachments
In between sanding down the bike frame and giving it coats of cream colored dupli color paint I've been finishing up things half done in preparation for putting it all together. The frame and fork are hanging from what was a screen house and next summer will be my bike garage. I'll cover it in billboard vinyl and have two openings so that I can ride the bike with the sidecar attached right inside and then out again through the other opening without having to turn it around. The wee little light is similar to the one going on the back end of the rear rack. The one in the picture is for the next build, the Panther, but I have already done the one for this Worksman, as I said, a bit longer. The lens is a ruby stained glass faceted jewel and there are nine LED lights inside. I've spent a lot of time getting the size down to this and am very pleased with it. It is bright and looks great with the faceted glass. It will run off the engine magneto as will the front fender running light... the one in the fourth picture which looks like it has a very dark lens, but is actually amber and also a faceted jewel. It is a torpedo light, longer, and is getting two brass filigree dragon fly wings backed with white opalescent stained glass which is a pain to cut and shape, by the way. The wings will get soldered to the top, mid body of the torpedo. Also with nine LEDs inside. I'm excited about these lights and hope they look as cool as I imagine they will. If it rains tomorrow I'll try to finish up the front running light.
More odds and ends following...
(cont.)
More odds and ends following...
(cont.)
Attachments
The first photo shows the pieces for making the headlight lens, four border pieces of white opalescent stained glass with a clear glass piece in the center. I still have shaping work to do. I no longer have my stained glass working tools, which makes this more of a pain to work with, but it will look good... 'custom'. The pieces will be joined together either with copper foil and solder or with lead cames and solder. Don't know hich yet. Second photo is of four raven feathers which will become a kind of flag for the fishing rod mast off the back of the sidecar. Four is a sacred number in the world view of Indians. It represents the four directions, four seasons and four stages of life primarily and is a much repeated theme in Indian art work. Birds in general (bineeshii) are go betweens, someplace between this world of manifestation and the next of spirit. I'm not clear yet on how to do them. Some bead work would be nice on the quills, but then how to attach them?
Finally I am finishing up the grips. This is the throttle and is made for a go cart with metal parts inside instead of the kit plastic. Kill switch is from an old Bikebug motor. I added just a touch of bead work, four white spaced with a black one between each set. Four again. The other grip is a three speed shifter with the idea that once Jim is successful with his sprocket cluster the bike will be ready. That's about it for show and tell. Barely wanted pictures and he got 'em.
SB
Finally I am finishing up the grips. This is the throttle and is made for a go cart with metal parts inside instead of the kit plastic. Kill switch is from an old Bikebug motor. I added just a touch of bead work, four white spaced with a black one between each set. Four again. The other grip is a three speed shifter with the idea that once Jim is successful with his sprocket cluster the bike will be ready. That's about it for show and tell. Barely wanted pictures and he got 'em.
SB
Attachments
FRONT FENDER RUNNING LIGHT
Friday I gave the last coat of cream colored paint to the frame and fork. The paint guy at Napa said to give it 48 hours before applying the dupli color engine enamel clear coat. So today I gave it two light coats of clear at 15 minute intervals and after another twenty minutes gave it a heavier final coat. I'll know better when I can get the bike outside in natural light (rainy today), but I think it looks really good. It is certainly the best paint job I've ever done. The other major activity today was the front fender light made of copper with an amber stained glass faceted jewel for the lens and lit by 9 led lights inside. I finished shaping the glass for the wings, wrapped the edges in copper foil and soldered the brass filigree dragon fly wings to the copper foiled edges. I also had to fabricate a mount for the fender and used a piece cut off from a millford hanger, the things I use to hang the gas tank and mount the headlight. Some bending this way and that gave the shape I wanted and I attached it to the light with a small bolt I drilled and tapped in the copper light body. Then I soldered the bolt to fix it in place. The wings were a pain to solder to the light and I'm not real happy with the results. Overall this light has eaten way too much time and effort for the results, but now I know better how to go about it and the next one will be closer to perfect. However, this one is good enough for this build. Time is running out and I can replace it with one better crafted this coming winter. Or not. Next time I will use a tiny tap to screw the wings to the body and then lightly solder them to the light. Less solder will give a cleaner look. Cutting the glass was made more difficult without the right tools for the job. A basic glass cutter is just the beginning when you are making tight curved cuts. When I had a glass shop I would have cut the general curves and finished up with a diamond glass grinder which is something like a router mounted in a router table with the spindle sticking up. For glass the "table" is much smaller and has sides so that it can hold an inch or so of water, with a wee little sponge at the back of the spindle to keep the diamond grinder constantly wet...works great without overheating the glass or wrecking the diamond spindle. I no longer have one of those tools and missed it sorely with this little pair of wings. No glass nippers, so I improvised and used my understanding of glass and makeshift tools to do the job less well and at much greater effort. Opalescent glass is also among the most difficult to cut since it is very hard and brittle, often varies in thickness and sometimes has ridges. What a glass cutter does is score a line in a man made crystal. Tapping or simply applying leverage in a straight cut works because the break follows the line of least resistance... the scored line. If the glass is wavy and has different thicknesses the line of least resistance is less predictable so you have to study the character of the glass, read it and improvise. Anyway, the two little wings were a pain in the orsh.
Tomorrow the bike starts getting reassembled. Woohoo!
SB
Friday I gave the last coat of cream colored paint to the frame and fork. The paint guy at Napa said to give it 48 hours before applying the dupli color engine enamel clear coat. So today I gave it two light coats of clear at 15 minute intervals and after another twenty minutes gave it a heavier final coat. I'll know better when I can get the bike outside in natural light (rainy today), but I think it looks really good. It is certainly the best paint job I've ever done. The other major activity today was the front fender light made of copper with an amber stained glass faceted jewel for the lens and lit by 9 led lights inside. I finished shaping the glass for the wings, wrapped the edges in copper foil and soldered the brass filigree dragon fly wings to the copper foiled edges. I also had to fabricate a mount for the fender and used a piece cut off from a millford hanger, the things I use to hang the gas tank and mount the headlight. Some bending this way and that gave the shape I wanted and I attached it to the light with a small bolt I drilled and tapped in the copper light body. Then I soldered the bolt to fix it in place. The wings were a pain to solder to the light and I'm not real happy with the results. Overall this light has eaten way too much time and effort for the results, but now I know better how to go about it and the next one will be closer to perfect. However, this one is good enough for this build. Time is running out and I can replace it with one better crafted this coming winter. Or not. Next time I will use a tiny tap to screw the wings to the body and then lightly solder them to the light. Less solder will give a cleaner look. Cutting the glass was made more difficult without the right tools for the job. A basic glass cutter is just the beginning when you are making tight curved cuts. When I had a glass shop I would have cut the general curves and finished up with a diamond glass grinder which is something like a router mounted in a router table with the spindle sticking up. For glass the "table" is much smaller and has sides so that it can hold an inch or so of water, with a wee little sponge at the back of the spindle to keep the diamond grinder constantly wet...works great without overheating the glass or wrecking the diamond spindle. I no longer have one of those tools and missed it sorely with this little pair of wings. No glass nippers, so I improvised and used my understanding of glass and makeshift tools to do the job less well and at much greater effort. Opalescent glass is also among the most difficult to cut since it is very hard and brittle, often varies in thickness and sometimes has ridges. What a glass cutter does is score a line in a man made crystal. Tapping or simply applying leverage in a straight cut works because the break follows the line of least resistance... the scored line. If the glass is wavy and has different thicknesses the line of least resistance is less predictable so you have to study the character of the glass, read it and improvise. Anyway, the two little wings were a pain in the orsh.
Tomorrow the bike starts getting reassembled. Woohoo!
SB
Attachments
Smokey,
Thanks. The next one will be better made, but I like the idea anyway. I think I know how to make it now. That's how a lot of things go for me... by the time I'm done I know how I should have done it. Ha!
SB.
BIKE IS COMING TOGETHER...
I put in a long day yesterday, but it is gratifying to see the bike coming together. I'm impressed with how the clear coat helps to protect the finish while assembling. I also took special care in trying to protect the paint by cutting thin pieces of elk hide and gluing them to the inside of the mounts with contact cement. Did that also with the Millford hangers for the gas tank. Now I'll need longer bolts with lock nuts for them.
I changed the pedal sprocket to a smaller diameter one from a Worksman folding bike, looking to get every bit of engine clearance I can The crank is the shortest I had which was from a 1960's 24" girl's Hawthorne. I also like the looks of that sprocket... nice quality. The seat post shims work perfectly and the seat looks good... 1941 Elgin with a 7 seat post.
The intake manifold offset makes all the difference with fitting the engine and being able to attach the throttle cable. I discovered that I had clearance problems with the pull start assembly as the pedal itself was hitting it, so for now the pull start is out. I'll either use if on something else, or more likely, will later change the pedal crank to an extra wide one and use it on this build as planned. That also requires an adapter to go from a one piece to a three piece crank, so that can come later on when funds permit. I had wanted a pull start in part because I figured with a sidecar it would be harder to pedal start. Maybe it won't make much difference.
In looked through what I had in donors for a chain guard (one other reason I wanted a smaller diameter pedal sprocket) and finally realized the best one is the original Worksman guard. I think I can make it fit OK and will leave it chrome for now and paint it this winter. Have to figure out how to mount the front part since the frame mounts were removed to make room for the engine. There's always something...The rear fender I drilled and bolted into place. Not sure yet, but I may end up enlarging the axle mount holes so the fender sits closer to the tire. Maybe it's just the angle I'm seeing it at with the bike raised up to work on. Front fender today and SBP exhaust, then little things like grips, wiring, lights. I don't yet have the rear hub adapter and sprocket, and will mount the rag joint if need be prior to leaving for the east coast. I still have the utility trailer to make into a covered bikemobile, packing and buttoning up here by the 10th of September. I can do it.
SB
Thanks. The next one will be better made, but I like the idea anyway. I think I know how to make it now. That's how a lot of things go for me... by the time I'm done I know how I should have done it. Ha!
SB.
BIKE IS COMING TOGETHER...
I put in a long day yesterday, but it is gratifying to see the bike coming together. I'm impressed with how the clear coat helps to protect the finish while assembling. I also took special care in trying to protect the paint by cutting thin pieces of elk hide and gluing them to the inside of the mounts with contact cement. Did that also with the Millford hangers for the gas tank. Now I'll need longer bolts with lock nuts for them.
I changed the pedal sprocket to a smaller diameter one from a Worksman folding bike, looking to get every bit of engine clearance I can The crank is the shortest I had which was from a 1960's 24" girl's Hawthorne. I also like the looks of that sprocket... nice quality. The seat post shims work perfectly and the seat looks good... 1941 Elgin with a 7 seat post.
The intake manifold offset makes all the difference with fitting the engine and being able to attach the throttle cable. I discovered that I had clearance problems with the pull start assembly as the pedal itself was hitting it, so for now the pull start is out. I'll either use if on something else, or more likely, will later change the pedal crank to an extra wide one and use it on this build as planned. That also requires an adapter to go from a one piece to a three piece crank, so that can come later on when funds permit. I had wanted a pull start in part because I figured with a sidecar it would be harder to pedal start. Maybe it won't make much difference.
In looked through what I had in donors for a chain guard (one other reason I wanted a smaller diameter pedal sprocket) and finally realized the best one is the original Worksman guard. I think I can make it fit OK and will leave it chrome for now and paint it this winter. Have to figure out how to mount the front part since the frame mounts were removed to make room for the engine. There's always something...The rear fender I drilled and bolted into place. Not sure yet, but I may end up enlarging the axle mount holes so the fender sits closer to the tire. Maybe it's just the angle I'm seeing it at with the bike raised up to work on. Front fender today and SBP exhaust, then little things like grips, wiring, lights. I don't yet have the rear hub adapter and sprocket, and will mount the rag joint if need be prior to leaving for the east coast. I still have the utility trailer to make into a covered bikemobile, packing and buttoning up here by the 10th of September. I can do it.
SB
Attachments
that is gonna be a very nice looking/riding bike
this thread has been a really cool read as well
thanks for inviting us along !!!
this thread has been a really cool read as well
thanks for inviting us along !!!
lookin good silverbear i love the color scheme made a world of difference in the looks of that bike.cant wait to see it completed with that shiny sidecar guna look good!!!!!
Thanks, Bill.that is gonna be a very nice looking/riding bike
this thread has been a really cool read as well
thanks for inviting us along !!!
I've wondered along the way if I was posting too much commentary and too many photos, but thought about what I like to see and read and went ahead with it as it was. People don't have to read it if it is of no interest to them and for those who are doing a Worksman on a budget it might be helpful...
No more pictures for a few days. I have to have a little drama with the Worksman's coming out photo shoot. It will be awhile yet before I can ride it... rear sprocket needs to be addressed yet and if need be I'll do the rag joint before leaving for the east coast.
I made a lot of progress today having mounted the chain guard, the SBP exhaust, front fender, rear rack with ruby jewel running light and leather brake light, front head light is mounted and now has a clear glass lens cut from an old window. Tomorrow I mount the front winged running light, do some wiring, throttle & cable, clutch cable, modify the gas tank vent to plug it as it will get a vented cap instead. Lots of little things to do which won't all be done tomorrow even. But cosmetically it should be pretty much done by the weekend. It's been fun and I love looking at the bike as it gets closer and closer to being finished. Pretty cool.
SB
Silverbear..you put a lot of time and effort into posting (I hate typing) and putting pictures on this sight ( I gave up trying to figure out how to do that )..I log on here every night and go to see and read your stuff first..Thanks from The Turtle..keep it coming..things on your end are looking good
SB AWESOME!!! I have read every word sometimes twice. And loved all the pictures helps understand what is being said. I love the color combo. You know what else I think would look good is sand the engine fins so the aluminum shows through. I am waiting for the final shots.....Curt
Thank you! Before painting it I was wondering if I really should. The blue was nice and the chrome fenders were new. But I had asked fasteddy his opinion, what he would do if it was his bike. I know he had been an antique restorer, a furniture maker and had seen what he did with restoring his Monark Silver King Super Deluxe and the Chris Craft mahogany side car he made to go with it. The guy is a real craftsman. And he gave it some thought and announced, "cream frame and black fenders". I had told him the engine would be black, black leather work on the seat, headlight, brake light and gas tank. It sounded good, but seeing it 'live" I can appreciate how rich the combination looks. I really like it and love the tires... perfect match with the frame color. I know cream or white tires are supposed to be a pain to keep clean, but they sure do look good on an old cruiser. Someone not too long ago answered a question I made about how to keep the white tires clean and this forum member named a product which he said cleaned them right up and also protected them from getting as dirty. Usually I put things like that in a file, but didn't, can't remember what the product was or even what the thread was. I'd like to get it and if it turns out to not be too great a problem I may go with the same tires on my next build, a black panther. The tires are made by Electra and I bought them through Amazon... sixty some dollars for the pair with free shipping. Hard to beat that. I like that they are cream and not a stark white. I'll be glad when this bike is done...
SB
Turtle Tedd & CurtisFox,
Thank you guys, I appreciate it. I set the little winged running light on the fender a little while ago before saying good night to the dog and good night to the bike... looked at it with the bike instead of just by itself and I think it works. I wondered about it since I wasn't too pleased with my craftsmanship on it. After all, I used to have a stained glass shop and should have done better. Next one will be. But sitting there on the fender I had to smile looking at it. Like I said, I won't have any trouble telling which bike is mine at a rally. This stuff is so much fun and is so satisfying. G'night you guys. Got to get up early and get some bike work done tomorrow... woohoo!
SB
Thank you guys, I appreciate it. I set the little winged running light on the fender a little while ago before saying good night to the dog and good night to the bike... looked at it with the bike instead of just by itself and I think it works. I wondered about it since I wasn't too pleased with my craftsmanship on it. After all, I used to have a stained glass shop and should have done better. Next one will be. But sitting there on the fender I had to smile looking at it. Like I said, I won't have any trouble telling which bike is mine at a rally. This stuff is so much fun and is so satisfying. G'night you guys. Got to get up early and get some bike work done tomorrow... woohoo!
SB
Heya SB...
Looking GREAT!! Keep up the posts and the pictures... I check everyday for progress =)
Put a few miles on mine last night... workin out the bugs nicely... I had to get creative with securing the coaster brake arm... turned out great... I will post pics tomorrow...
I hope to get the wiring cleaned up tonight... and I think I may take my first trip into town on her... It's 6 miles into town so it will be my longest ride yet...
Peace
David
Looking GREAT!! Keep up the posts and the pictures... I check everyday for progress =)
Put a few miles on mine last night... workin out the bugs nicely... I had to get creative with securing the coaster brake arm... turned out great... I will post pics tomorrow...
I hope to get the wiring cleaned up tonight... and I think I may take my first trip into town on her... It's 6 miles into town so it will be my longest ride yet...
Peace
David
WORKSMAN IS COMING TOGETHER
I'm very pleased with how this project is coming together. I still have some things to do, but cosmetically this is pretty much how it will look. I still have to do the wiring, mount the sidecar body to the undercarriage with U bolts,, make the raven feather 'flag' for the fishing pole mast, carpet in sidecar, mount pedal chain, rear sprocket and adapter for rear hub, make the gas filter ( a real one made from copper) and run copper gas line to carb... probably will need to do surgery on the rear fender for the drive chain clearance. But it's pretty close to done, really. I do have a couple dinks in the paint in spite of trying to be really careful, so I have to figure what to do with that. Time now to shift the focus to the bike hauler trailer.
Hope you like the bike. I sure do. Will post some closeups when it is further along.
SB
I'm very pleased with how this project is coming together. I still have some things to do, but cosmetically this is pretty much how it will look. I still have to do the wiring, mount the sidecar body to the undercarriage with U bolts,, make the raven feather 'flag' for the fishing pole mast, carpet in sidecar, mount pedal chain, rear sprocket and adapter for rear hub, make the gas filter ( a real one made from copper) and run copper gas line to carb... probably will need to do surgery on the rear fender for the drive chain clearance. But it's pretty close to done, really. I do have a couple dinks in the paint in spite of trying to be really careful, so I have to figure what to do with that. Time now to shift the focus to the bike hauler trailer.
Hope you like the bike. I sure do. Will post some closeups when it is further along.
SB
