30 Miles and WT#!!!!

[camlifter]

in your first post you said it was running ok and then started ideling high, this sounds like an air leak. since you've had the carb off many times i'll assume it's seald good there. take off the clutch side cover and see if it looks like gas is leaking in to that side. could be a crank seal leaking. the mag side could leak too, but since you've been in that side already and haven't said it was all wet in there it must be ok. if it has compresion, fuel and spark, it has to be a mixture problem, and an air leak would cause these symptoms, it can leak air at the crank seals, the manifold to jug gasket, the carb to manifold clamp area, or the seam where the 2 halfs of the engine mate.
this is a little in depth for a beginner but you can block off the exhaust and seal the intake with a cap that has a tire valve in it and pump a few psi of air into the engine and check for leaks with soapy water, any bubbles are leaks, don't use to much pressure only 3 or 4 psi is needed.

 

[flybytaco]

tell them you want a new motor mixing it 20 :1 aint gonna make it start

 

[rwquiring]

tell them you want a new motor mixing it 20 :1 aint gonna make it start

I know, It stopped running when I was using a 20:1 ratio, just going to play the game with them and see where it takes me.

Q

 

[happycheapskate]

I think these motors are the stereotype you think of when you hear "mass produced". If it gives you major trouble, buy another one to use in the meantime. Maybe you can get your $ back. But either way, you will be able to ride. If you can't get your money back, at least you have spare parts or a spare engine if you can make it run again. My opinion on Bikeberry if thats where you got it, is that they are kind of dumb but pretty nice, and have good parts.

 

[Bikeguy Joe]

Please forgive my ignorance but when you blow an engine what should a person be looking for? I tried clearing the engine out and still nothing, the tech at BB say that I need to go back to a richer ratio in my fuel, now i am running 28:1, he wants 20:1, I want to be covered by warranty so I will go back to that....

Q

Tell the idiot "tech" at BB that I said he shouldn't call himself a "tech".

 

[rwquiring]

Tell the idiot "tech" at BB that I said he shouldn't call himself a "tech".

Thank you, I would sure like to

 

[curtisfox]

I know, It stopped running when I was using a 20:1 ratio, just going to play the game with them and see where it takes me.

Q

The RAW engines want 16 To 1 for the first tank or 2 of gass then 32 to 1
It wont be long and two stroke will be no longer EPA check out Pirate Cycles.com

 

[Venice Motor Bikes]

Most all of the engines instructions say to use 16:1... Thats for the old days before there was 2 cycle oil & they mixed regular motor oil into the gas!
I use regular Valvoline 2 cycle oil mixed @ 24:1 for break in & 32:1 after that.

 

[happycheapskate]

I have run regular motor oil in lawn equipment in a pinch. It runs nicely but may be harder to start in cold weather, and will probably make more deposits in your motor, esp in the exhaust. I bet you are right though, because HT kits have been around a long time, and they are probably just copying stuff.

I tried running 16:1 home depot weeder oil in my Grubee right off, and it smoked and rattled. I went to 20:1 and it was fine. Still running 32:1 with no problems.

 

[rwquiring]

I talked AGAIN to the tech and BB and he believes that my engine is flooded, he suggested to take the plug out and the exhaust off and the carb, then turn the motor over and let the gas drain out of the bottom end, so I came home and dismantled the whole thing and have it sitting in the garage to let it drain out over night, I did notice that when I turned the motor over that there was gas coming out of the bottom side of the piston (seeping) so maybe he is right, I had my wive pull me with the pickup yesterday to try to clear it out, (saved my legs) and no luck so I will try this method.

BB says that they have sold 5000 of these engines and have had only one come back bad,(kind of hard to believe that) and there warranty if for replacement only, I can not get them to say just send it back and we will replace it. Is'nt the saying say, The costumer is alway right? enough of my ramblings.....

will get back to y'all tomorrow to let you know if we are happy.

Q

 

[happycheapskate]

You'd have to try hard to flood a 2x engine this small, unless the carb was stuck or you pushed the primer a bunch of times. Maybe he meant turn over the engine as in pedal start it to cycle the engine.

Try a spark test: Pull the spark plug out and while wearing heavy gloves!!! and/or using insulated pliers, hold the end of the wire near the block while pushing the bike or coasting and dumping the clutch, see if sparks are made (easier in a dark garage or at night.

I use 91% Rubbing Alcohol as a starting fluid spray for cold mornings. A couple spritzes on the air filter should have it fire right up if its going to.

 

[rwquiring]

Well here is a update as of this afternoon.

YAHOO!!

let me start to say thank all of you that helped me out with this problem, on friday I talked again with the tech from BB and he said that It was flooded and I should take everything off and let it set over night and let the gas drain out from the bottom end, well 48 hours of being upside down, I put it all back together and prayed that it will start, so I wheel it out to the street and turned on the gas and start peddling, NO JOY, I am pissed off, so I go back in the garage and pull the cover off of the mag and look at it really good (new Mag, thanks BB) I noticed that the mag was not quit centered in its mounting so I made sure that there was the same gap on both sides, made sure the woodruff key was in the correct position, buttoned it all up, went out to the street, started peddling, let the clutch out and low and behold IT STARTED!!!!!!!!! who knows what it was but it is running now, still 4 stroking but running, Once again, THANK TO YOU ALL!!!

I am now going to put this thread to bed.

Q

 

[NEAT TIMES]

Rw, That Is Great. I Believe That 4 Stroking Is From A Rich, Too Much Fuel. Keep That In Mind. Ron

 

[rwquiring]

Rw, That Is Great. I Believe That 4 Stroking Is From A Rich, Too Much Fuel. Keep That In Mind. Ron

the needle is set at the top notch so later I will lean out the mixture a bit (once it is broken in)

Need to ride the thing...

Q

 

[Goat Herder]

Good to hear ya got it running!! Your probably one of the only few folks that practically broke the motor in just by trying to start it LOL...


Very cool ya got it up

 

[Goat Herder]

Second notch down from the top is where you might want the clip at on the needle. That's where they are typically at. The higher the needle valve goes up with the throttle the more the metering valve [needle] lets fuel in. Clip at the top of the needle means lean, clip towards the bottom of the needle means richer..

 

[NEAT TIMES]

rw, do you think that the mag not firing caused the flooding? i just looked at all your post`s and no pictures. is you carb sitting level? hopefully it may quit 4 stroking as the crankcase clears out. imo 32:1 should be plenty off oil. hoping it keeps chugging nicely!! ron

 

[rwquiring]

rw, do you think that the mag not firing caused the flooding? i just looked at all your post`s and no pictures. is you carb sitting level? hopefully it may quit 4 stroking as the crankcase clears out. imo 32:1 should be plenty off oil. hoping it keeps chugging nicely!! ron

right now I am running 20:1, and it seems that it is a little rich, so when I am done with breaking it in I will go to a leaner mixture, and probably solder the jet and redrill to a smaller hole.

Q

 

[flybytaco]

put the clip in the center and ride it tillit dies good to hear it

 

[drhofferber]

you have or have developed patience...good for you for hanging in there..bytaco is right...the top notch is the leanest..2nd or third should be fine...ridem...Dennis