30 Miles and WT#!!!!

drhofferber said:
ok...for one i dislike those carbs...second, yes the star nut on the clutch can be set...just take the set screw off and turn it to the right, to tighten,...it sounds like its set enough to start...everthing we do from this point is to start it...the fine tuning comes later...ok...the white wire is disconnected and taped, right...because if it is grounding the bike it will cause the bike not to start...have you disconnected the kill switch...?get right back to me...i;m in reno on your time, so i'll stay with you untill we ge it started...Dennis
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the White wire in NOT connected. No kill switch attached.
 
your not trolling by any chance are you?

i dont understand. im just gonna sit back and watch out of total confusion.

good luck buddy
 
I was just out in the shop and found that the screw that holds the black wire onto the Mag was stripped, so I moved it to the one in front, will that be alright to screw it to that one or do I need to some how fix the stripped hole, It came like that. since i changed it to the front one it still will not work.
Q
 
Called up tech support for B*** B***y (not sure i can say there name).The kid on the other end was just basically reading from a screen, Oh well, I guess it's his job, anyway he said to go ahead and send the carb in and "if" they find it defective, they will replace it. hopefully not with another one that will do the same thing. so I guess that I may just go ahead and send it in and see what they say about it.
So I will let y'all know what happens.

Q
:-||
 
please let us know...i'm getting thirsty...i remember my first build...very frustrating....maybe you can take your frustration on a good looking biker chick...ha Dennis
 
I am not real familiar with these 2 stroke engines so bear with me. If you have fuel and spark, the only other thing I can think of is timing. Like I said I don't know these engines but is it possible to have the timing so for out of whack that it will not fire? Hopefully someone more knowledgeable about these engine can answer this timing question. Could something have shifted or the key on the flywheel shear off? I don't know where else to look.

Jim
 
I know that on Briggs lawn mowers if the key is just a very slite shear it won't run. Might look ok but if it has a slite indent it knocks it off. Like Fossil I haven't had any experiance with the engines you have but worked on small engines them all my life.
My son has one now and will sone find out.
 
curtisfox said:
I know that on Briggs lawn mowers if the key is just a very slite shear it won't run. Might look ok but if it has a slite indent it knocks it off. Like Fossil I haven't had any experiance with the engines you have but worked on small engines them all my life.
My son has one now and will sone find out.
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i experimented with this last summer using an off set key....bike ran weather it was retarded or advanced with little power difference surprisingly...would have been upset but i stole the key from work so no cost to me...

if someone here cant figure it out ill buy you a fat tire from the new belguim brewery around the corner

i do think getting a new carb is a good idea...your still gonna have to clean out that engine case...i highly doubt that they are going to go through that carb....there cheap enough to not spend any labor looking at it....they just want that old one back to make sure your not scamming parts from them....believe me i do warantee work all day at work
 
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At 6.5 to 1 compression, you aren't going to be "blowing out the spark", unless it's so bad you can barely see it.
 
I had a similar problem a week ago on my new engine with about 50miles on it, the problem was partly due to a fuel valve which would never shut off and flood my carb, but the reason it would not start was a wire came lose. Check your wiring I checked this last because everything ran great before I had shut it off, my carb was flooded and had spark. Lastly I removed the electrical tape and noticed blue wire came undone. fixed, and have been running great ever since. Hope this helps.
 
BADBOOH said:
I had a similar problem a week ago on my new engine with about 50miles on it, the problem was partly due to a fuel valve which would never shut off and flood my carb, but the reason it would not start was a wire came lose. Check your wiring I checked this last because everything ran great before I had shut it off, my carb was flooded and had spark. Lastly I removed the electrical tape and noticed blue wire came undone. fixed, and have been running great ever since. Hope this helps.
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yesterday I noticed that the black wire that is attached to the mag was loose, accually it was stripped out! well I changed it to the other bolt in front of it but I still had no go.

thanks
Q
 
Interesting find today, somewhere I found the info for being able to check the mag/cdi here are the results.

MAG

2.2 ohms black/white
0 ohms blue/white


CDI

0 ohms +blue/-black
0 ohms +black/-blue
0 ohms +spark/-blue
2.3 ohms +spark/-black

To all you wizzards out there, does this mean that both mag/cdi are bad? the cdi is brand new! could i have fried it just trying to get it started?

Q
 
Heres a experiment for you to try... Try to start the bike while pushing the kill button. there have been a few bikes that something happened & now they only run with the button pushed in!!! :-{ Just try it & see?
 
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