New in frame 4 stroke kit in development!

[tyrslider]

It's like a rear facing Aeramachi or Duc or somethin' that's what I saw when I 1st laid eyes on'er. Ooops did I say that out loud.

Err anyway totally agree It'll be nice to see what you come up w/ Jim. W/o knowing the ins and outs of this motor I know it has a conventional head unlike the hondas w/ their cast in case heads, which allows some more access. Flowing the heads and carburation w/ a good filter and exhaust would be huge. But I'm looking forward to your modus operandi!

 

[Creative Engineering]

It's like a rear facing Aeramachi or Duc or somethin' that's what I saw when I 1st laid eyes on'er. Ooops did I say that out loud.

Err anyway totally agree It'll be nice to see what you come up w/ Jim. W/o knowing the ins and outs of this motor I know it has a conventional head unlike the hondas w/ their cast in case heads, which allows some more access. Flowing the heads and carburation w/ a good filter and exhaust would be huge. But I'm looking forward to your modus operandi!

Yes Evan...I like following the work you guys are doing with the 4-strokes...All of you...Excellent work!
People don't realize what it takes to make these things happen.

When I see other guys making stuff for MB's...it's that kindred spirit thing...the time spent in the shop, and at the drawing board, (computer), to make it all happen is all too familiar.

I'm messin' around with this engine for a cart project...If I blow it up, it's only $89.00 and I'll try again. I rarely bash engines: I fully expect to run this one at 6,500-8,000 RPM without damage.

Jim

 

[glacknoid]

Well I took the gov parts out of the HF. It was nothing like the clone video I posted earlier in the thread. Well I can't say nothing. It looked similar but in the 6.5 hp clone which had a plastic button that slid right off and all you had to do was remove a little clip with a screw driver to slide the gov gear off. With the 2.5 hp it was definetely a trick for me to get the so called button off. When you pulled up on it, a flang at the bottom was stopped by the weights so it was a bear just getting that off then to my disapointment there was no simple clip to remove the gear from the shaft. I think the plastic gear may have been molded aroung the metal shaft. I basically had to destroy the gear to get it off the shaft. I started to take the flywheel, cover and flywheel nut off to see if maybe the shaft that the gov gear spun on came through the other side of the engine so I could maybe loosen something and remove it in one peice, but I opted to just destroy it to get it off.

Anyone who's more mechanically savvy than me who knows the right way to get the gov gear off, I'm listening. I got one more to do and I don't want to do it like that again.

 

[glacknoid]

I have a question about this engine. I noticed on the plastic cam shaft was a funny little metal piece that seemed to pivot up and down. When I pull the rope slowly you can hear it and with the valve cover off you can see that the exit valve spring makes a short movement and sort of a click sound when the metal piece comes off the exit valve on every other rotation of the output shaft.

What is this?

 

[Creative Engineering]

I have a question about this engine. I noticed on the plastic cam shaft was a funny little metal piece that seemed to pivot up and down. When I pull the rope slowly you can hear it and with the valve cover off you can see that the exit valve spring makes a short movement and sort of a click sound when the metal piece comes off the exit valve on every other rotation of the output shaft.

What is this?

It's an automatic compression release...

If you rotate the engine by hand, you'll notice that the short movement of the exhaust valve coincides with the compression stroke. This makes the engine a lot easier to start.

If you look carefully, (it is small), you'll notice that is also designed to move by centrifugal force. There is a lightweight spring that postions the steel bit up against the cam lobe. As soon as the engine fires, it swings out of the way.

I'll check out the gov gear removal. I haven't removed the crank yet, and I think it may be necessary to get the gear out.

Jim

 

[tyrslider]

Sweet I'll be crackin one apart soon too! I gotta get back onto my 98cc lifan Motornewsboy job soon so that I can shoot the FBC promo vids and have it finished for our client too. And the CVT build off starts asap 'cause we gotta get going on the Honda / Hua Sheng (machine) system. Well, I'm not bored!

 

[glacknoid]

Like I say, there may be a way to get it off from the outside behind the flywheel, but I may be just wishfull thinking. Or it takes a special puller to get everything off in one piece. I think the shaft had a little ridge that holds the gear on. Not a big one, just big enough to keep the gear from flying off but big enough to make it a pain in the ars to get it off.

Oh, once I removed the rocker there was an 8mm hole. Should I tap it and put a bolt in it.

Also there is a washer behind the gov gear that blends in to the crank case, Don't forget it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/97000-97999/97964.pdf
If you look close to the photo of the crank case part no 70 it may be removeable from the outside. Hard to tell from the crude drawing.

 

[tyrslider]

Good lookin out! and I would tap that hole while it's open so you can catch the chips!

 

[bjpru66]

Haven't read all the posts on the HF govenor issue, but my thought is why not just disconnect the govenor linkage? Why go inside the engine?

 

[jg767]

I have a HF 2.5 that's going to be frame mounted with an EZM drive. Could you guys post some pics of this governor removal?

 

[MaxPower]

I'm going to remove the governor from my harbor freight engine too. Maybe someone can start a new thread on how to do it.

 

[glacknoid]

Here's how I removed mine. May it rest in pieces.

 

[Creative Engineering]

I have a HF 2.5 that's going to be frame mounted with an EZM drive. Could you guys post some pics of this governor removal?

I'll do it tomorrow...If I don't forget.

I've got it on my desk, torn down to the point that only the crank, rod, piston, and flywheel need to be removed...and the Governor. I got busy with production and stopped messin' with it.

I'll put some pics and descriptions up tomorrow for those who are interested.

Jim

 

[Dan]

Awesome Jim. Honestly I had thought the gov was for longevity, not purpose. Very, very cool and thank you. Could solve a whole bunch of "huh?"s (stuff I didn't get)

 

[glacknoid]

Here are some photo's I took of the shaft the gov gear slides onto you can see the groove. There was no clip. You can sort of see the ridge on the inside of the hole of the broken gov gear itself. That ridge, I believe, spins in the groove of the shaft holding it on. That's probably why I had such a hard time pulling it off. As you can see I had to split it into. If Jim determines tomorow that the shaft is accessable from the outside, problem solved.

Maybe if all the other parts inside are out of the way you can get something under the plastic gear and pop it out of the groove and slide it off.

 

[glacknoid]

Is this protrusion on the rod assembly for splashing oil up onto the rest of the parts that can't reach the oil bath.

 

[GearNut]

Yes. Splash lubrication.

 

[glacknoid]

Here's a photo of a replacement cam wheel for a honda/HS. Does it look like plastic?

 

[atombikes]

Here's a photo of a replacement cam wheel for a honda/HS. Does it look like plastic?

Yes, looks like nylon to me.

 

[Engler]

Thanks glack,

It's been record cold around here fo sho. Warming up a little now but definately winter.

We are truly excited about this design. Can't wait to put it through it's rigors!

Should have pics of it in the coming weeks!

Any time frame on availability?

Weeks ? Months ? Years ? (like EZM)