what did you do to your motorized bicycle today?

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Skarrd, Oct 25, 2010.

  1. tgaydos

    tgaydos New Member

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    I mounted my disc brake on the front.

    [​IMG][/URL]

    I need to change the forks out though as when I was taking it apart to paint I noticed the bearing on the top of the head tube was completely mashed and dug into the fork a little bit. Luckily I had another bearing to put in it's place but the damage is done.

    [​IMG][/URL]
     
  2. tgaydos

    tgaydos New Member

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    the demise of one fork led to the rise of another.

    [​IMG]

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  3. mogollonmonster

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    Got my new mag and CDI from Dax today, my bike has never run so smooth! I've got to do a speed run after work tomorrow, once I put the speedo back on, I've already got the 44t back on, for now.

    My used plastic fenders came off in pieces, so it's time to find a new set of mud catchers... Maybe not... Also tomorrow I'll finish up my new rack, which is an old one I've cobbled some baskets to, we'll see how it works out. Think I'll try out a dynamo head light, I'm not yet ready to wire a battery into my lighting system, but ise thinking on it. New breaks will probably be my next investment, u figure I've gotten just about all the use out of these I can. It is no longer possible to skid a wheel, and levers, return springs, heck everything has just about had it. Not sure if I'll go to a bike shop and have it Johnny on the spot, or go online, and pay a decent price...
     
  4. Tony01

    Tony01 Active Member

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    Removed my motor last night, shaved the head another .005" for a total of .020", cleaned all the carbon buildup off, lapped the valves in and set the lash, which was off by only .001" on the intake. Also ported/polished the ports some more as I didn't do such a great job last time. The exhaust port is sooo smooth now, threads cut down cause I'm using a bolt on header. Decided to start the painting process, masked off all parts where needed and finished painting the head and cooling shrouds, currently finishing the primer coats on the block.
     

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  5. Tony01

    Tony01 Active Member

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    And the block is painted. I decided to paint the head the same color, had it grey but it just didn't look right.
     

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  6. BOYGOFAST

    BOYGOFAST New Member

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    Another important thing is having enough power to stop the bike once it is set in motion .
     
  7. BOYGOFAST

    BOYGOFAST New Member

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    Good picture of a worn disk,they only give you a few thousandths on those but when they heat up I'd bet they fade or bend new .My coaster brake gets hot in a few minuets and won't work much better but has not broken yet.
     
    #8667 BOYGOFAST, May 15, 2016
    Last edited: May 15, 2016
  8. mogollonmonster

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    Well I pulled the head today...

    After more than 2800 miles, the cylinder walls themselves look pristine... The crosshatching done in China looks untouched... Top of piston and combustion chamber are filthy and coated in carbon of course, as I just can't seem to lean it out. Once I've got a second base gasket in hand, I'll pull the jug and clean up the casting slag in the exhaust port. The slag is reducing the port size by approximately 30%, and I believe it to be the cause of my over rich issues.
     
  9. mogollonmonster

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    So yesterday, I bought some gasket maker, needle files and a fresh pair of big girl panties, pulled my jug, and finally cleaned the slag out of my exhaust port.

    A note to all fellow patrons of Ace hardware. General brand, carried by my local ace is junk. I wore out the round and half round files in no time at all. Either of the other two sets at my ranch would be untouched, these craptastic files are almost smooth after their battle with the best beer cans China has to offer. The handle and case that came with the set are of higher quality than the files.

    Beyond all that, this was the first port work of any kind that I've ever undertaken. I hope I didn't screw anything up lol, I made sure to bevel the edges to avoid ring snag, and only made the opening of the port match the port itself.

    I've got to remount the motor into Tanglebones and wait for the exhaust gasket sealer to set up. Stand by for testing.
     
  10. mogollonmonster

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    It worked!!!! Runs much smoother now, almost no fourstroking at all, just a little before it warms up. It definitely leaned out a bit too, no more flat spot in the throttle, and my plug looks good. Lots more power throughout the rev range, but especially down low. I was given another stock exhaust, this one has a significantly longer header, which will clear the pedals better, and should help the lower end a little, I'll dink with it later.
     
  11. tgaydos

    tgaydos New Member

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    very nice man, getting your port job right is always a good feeling. what kind of exhaust are you changing to?
     
  12. DaveC

    DaveC Member

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    It was probably the hard chroming that took out your files. Did you check the smoothness of the edge leading from the cylinder? It's possible that a burr from the filing could cause a problem with the ring after a while. Drawing Emory cloth from the inside of the cylinder out of the port will remove any possible burr. Work it from the bottom and from the top, breaking the edge.

    .shft.
     
  13. mogollonmonster

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    No Dave I think it was the Taiwanese scrap iron they were made of. I tried one out on a chunk of scrap aluminum with the same results. The files just suck is all, no biggie. I did use some emery cloth, everything worked out beautiful.

    Getting the Dax banana pipe...
     
  14. DaveC

    DaveC Member

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    That's just sad, I hate bad tools and there's a lot out there these days and improperly hardened files a complete waste of money, time for a good set :)
     
  15. mogollonmonster

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    I have a really good set, and a "junk" set, both are much better files. Regardless, job is done, bike runs better than ever, so I'm satisfied. Now I know for the future. This time, it was either buy a set or ride 50 miles for what I had, next time, I'll take the ride. Trash tools being what they are, I thought I'd warn my fellow customers, as I know many of us shop at ace quite a bit.

    Hoping to place my order with Dax tomorrow afternoon, for the expansion chamber, and possibly other goodies if my budget allows. As money comes in, ill be starting a second build, thus, Tanglebones, with all his miles, becomes the test bed. The cylinder looks pretty good, and I'm happy with my port work. I believe the upper con rod bearing is going, but that's just a guess from the upper end noise. I know these ChinaGirls make a lot of racket, but this intermittent disturbance in the force sounds like a bearing. I didn't have the courage to pull the piston off, as I don't have another bearing on hand, Dax has them so no biggie there. I'm putting serious thought into notching the piston skirt at the intake port. Any thoughts on that?
     
  16. YesImLDS

    YesImLDS Member

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    On my builds I put the piston at tdc mark everyThing blocking the intake port on the piston with a sharpie then chop all that off. Less rotating mass and more intake timing that isn't excessive.
     
  17. mogollonmonster

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    That was exactly what I planned to do, so I take it you approve sir? I won't be performing that task till a new upper con rod bearing gets here.
     
  18. YesImLDS

    YesImLDS Member

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    I have done it to every piston I've touched with these engines! It's hard to over do it and have bad effects. Some people do half moon shapes, but I just did a straight line across the piston with no problems at all.
     
  19. Tony01

    Tony01 Active Member

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    Custom made a 3-stage header. No bends, the first bend is composed of the first pipe cut into angled pieces, welded, then ground smooth. And did my header brace!! Every exhaust I have had so far shook itself loose and broken. usflgusflg
     

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  20. MEASURE TWICE

    MEASURE TWICE Well-Known Member

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    Is that a tube at the top of the head bolts maybe? It melds with the exhaust tube for support?
     

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