what did you do to your motorized bicycle today?
- Thread starter Skarrd
- Start date
is that powder coat or paint?Can't post pics from the kindle... but it works from the phone...
I would like to know more about the racing carb I got and why no tickler and it came with a new throttle cable but I don't know if it has enough lead.
So you think the new carb won't work as good as stock?motor is flying horse with electronics inside. It goes 25 max I weigh 230 . is that all I'm gonna get? Or would the 36 tooth sprocket and boost bottle help? I don't want to spend money and waste time. Help
if you don't have at least 3 or 4 hundred miles on it, you can't really tell what you'll get
the CNS has much larger venturi than standard carbs - you need to move more air to get real benefit out of it - usually works well after port matching, tuned exhaust, etc
36 might be too tall for that kind of weight - if you're at 44T, I'd first try 41T, but if you need to get up hills, then I'd stay with the 44T
From personal experience I can say the stock carb both works and performs better than the cns... I got one about a year ago and got it tuned (which is no easy task) took it for a test ride and it wouldn't behave its self so back for more tuning... finally got it to behave but it didn't perform as good as the stock nt carb did. I put the nt back on and got my bike up to 42mph consistantly, and did it with the 44 tooth rear sprocket. I also weigh about 225...
If you want a good combo for speed you'll need to do some port work or get a ported cylinder, then you'll need a good exhaust... most the pipes on ebay are junk or wont perform... the outlet on most these pipes is way too small and restrictive to get a bike past 30mph... you can easily gain a few mph as well as better acceleration just by removing the end cap off the stock pipe and drilling 4 more holes 5/16" thru the end cap then put it back on... if you got the stock pipe and do just this trick you will feel the difference and see 3 to 5 more mph...
A good performance pipe like the sbp pipe will give you a very noticeable improvement once installed...
Like mentioned above tho... your bike wont have a good top speed until the engine has gone thru a few tanks of fuel, its best to run a new engine on the rich side to help keep things cool and tune after the second tank is finished. You'll feel it when your engine begins to break in and the rings get seated.
If you want a good combo for speed you'll need to do some port work or get a ported cylinder, then you'll need a good exhaust... most the pipes on ebay are junk or wont perform... the outlet on most these pipes is way too small and restrictive to get a bike past 30mph... you can easily gain a few mph as well as better acceleration just by removing the end cap off the stock pipe and drilling 4 more holes 5/16" thru the end cap then put it back on... if you got the stock pipe and do just this trick you will feel the difference and see 3 to 5 more mph...
A good performance pipe like the sbp pipe will give you a very noticeable improvement once installed...
Like mentioned above tho... your bike wont have a good top speed until the engine has gone thru a few tanks of fuel, its best to run a new engine on the rich side to help keep things cool and tune after the second tank is finished. You'll feel it when your engine begins to break in and the rings get seated.
That was pretty helpful but I have a RT Delotoro copy. I will try the drilling the holes in the muffler trick. Someone else said buy one with am expansion chamber? I don't know what name. THANKS
The thread below is about posting pictures, I found it by using the search box near the top of the page.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=8
http://motorbicycling.com/f15/how-post-pictures-61.html
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=8
http://motorbicycling.com/f15/how-post-pictures-61.html
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I lost the screw to my exaust a month ago but it has been tight enough until today!.I drilled three holes in bottom and four counting the one where screw went that I had siliconed up. I made it around the corner and all **** broke loose ..sounded like a Harley coming and the neighbors all looked and I made it around the block and found my piece laying in the road and came home and siliconed it back up . Tune in tomorrow for the results.
If you need a screw in the side of the cap a #8 or #10 ss sheet metal screw will do, if it has the single stud in the center of the cap you have a bigger problem. One of the guys I ride with had to drill three holes around the outside of the muffler and use the above mentioned screws to repair his since the center bolt is welded in and has broke off.
Below is a picture of a center stud type muffler.
http://motorbicycling.com/album.php?albumid=259&pictureid=1611
Below is a picture of a center stud type muffler.
http://motorbicycling.com/album.php?albumid=259&pictureid=1611
More powder coating done today... I wasn't happy with the first batch so I contacted the guy I got the powder from and he replied quickly and told me what went wrong and how to fix it...
After this I went back and re cured the parts for about 15 minutes longer.. this worked and saved me from having to redo all but one of the parts cured in that batch...
Afterwards I had some time today to experiment so I practiced the methods the seller told me and here you can see how much control of the color you have by adding more or less coats of candy pretty much the same as painting except the parts are heated up to about 150 to 200 degrees so the powder sticks better but don't melt on the part during application... then back into the oven for more baking...
Here are the parts in candy lime green on top of the krome base coat... I really like the color but may add some lime yellow or gold pearl into the clear coat for just a bit more pop...
This one is with the flash off to show the true color best...
And flash on to show how it will look out in sunlight...
The different colors are all done with the same batch of green powder and is controlled by how the base is applied and the number of color coats... the lightest green is just a single coat and the darkest is 2 coats with the second coat applied while the part is still hot...
After this I went back and re cured the parts for about 15 minutes longer.. this worked and saved me from having to redo all but one of the parts cured in that batch...
Afterwards I had some time today to experiment so I practiced the methods the seller told me and here you can see how much control of the color you have by adding more or less coats of candy pretty much the same as painting except the parts are heated up to about 150 to 200 degrees so the powder sticks better but don't melt on the part during application... then back into the oven for more baking...
Here are the parts in candy lime green on top of the krome base coat... I really like the color but may add some lime yellow or gold pearl into the clear coat for just a bit more pop...
This one is with the flash off to show the true color best...
And flash on to show how it will look out in sunlight...
The different colors are all done with the same batch of green powder and is controlled by how the base is applied and the number of color coats... the lightest green is just a single coat and the darkest is 2 coats with the second coat applied while the part is still hot...
Depends on what type muffler you got but Greg is right if it needs the screws from the side... if yours has the welded stud on the end then it's the 10th nut with the m6 threads... if it takes the nut on the end it's best to add 2, one to hold it on and the second as a jam nut to prevent it from backing out.
You should have a noticeable torque and power increase while still being fairly quiet with the drilled end cap, it will be a touch louder but still a lot quieter than with no cap at all.