weed eater chopper bike build
- Thread starter thewikkidrider
- Start date
Wickedest1
Member
Well some parts updates...found everythingg we need...hopefully...
5/16x24(fine thread) coupler tgats just over an inch long...hard to find fine threaded couplers at your local nuts n bolts places
I tag this website for all my one off or hard to find nuts and bbolts
And i have a thread somewhere that i used a 12.12 hardened threades rod as my hhead studs on a motor that still runs and has hhad not a single airleak...
www.nutty.com
12.12 threaded rod to be used as drive shaft...you cannot bend a 4" piece of this in a vice unless you heat it to glowing...along with a 1 7/8ths rubber roller
Some flanged hex nuts...washers...but forgot the dang uboltss...
List from nutty company:
12x 5/16x24 flanged hex nuts
12x" "flat wasshers
6x 5/16x24 1 1/8" threaded rod couplers grade 8
1x 3 3/4 in flat wassher with 5/16 id hole...
1x 4ft 12.12 threaded rod
All this====$9.00
Also found a rubber supplier locally to the nutty company
2x 13"x1/2" rubbee discs rate 60 duros
$5.00
Total build so far?
$14...ultimate cheap b@st@rd fd
Bike and whacker were in neighbors trash...so costt there free...
5/16x24(fine thread) coupler tgats just over an inch long...hard to find fine threaded couplers at your local nuts n bolts places
I tag this website for all my one off or hard to find nuts and bbolts
And i have a thread somewhere that i used a 12.12 hardened threades rod as my hhead studs on a motor that still runs and has hhad not a single airleak...
www.nutty.com
12.12 threaded rod to be used as drive shaft...you cannot bend a 4" piece of this in a vice unless you heat it to glowing...along with a 1 7/8ths rubber roller
Some flanged hex nuts...washers...but forgot the dang uboltss...
List from nutty company:
12x 5/16x24 flanged hex nuts
12x" "flat wasshers
6x 5/16x24 1 1/8" threaded rod couplers grade 8
1x 3 3/4 in flat wassher with 5/16 id hole...
1x 4ft 12.12 threaded rod
All this====$9.00
Also found a rubber supplier locally to the nutty company
2x 13"x1/2" rubbee discs rate 60 duros
$5.00
Total build so far?
$14...ultimate cheap b@st@rd fd
Bike and whacker were in neighbors trash...so costt there free...
Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
I'm amazed that you can buy fasteners and hardened threaded rod so cheaply. Here in New Zealand that little lot would have cost considerably much more than what you paid. 
An interesting project build by the way, I'll be following this thread from now on.
An interesting project build by the way, I'll be following this thread from now on.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Check the last post on pg. 2 on roller size.
Wickedest1
Member
i checked the diy section on pg 2 at the end its the Henderson tribute thread...which thread were you speaking of?
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
a_dam
New Member
That's for sure. I think I was trying to find a fine thread 5/16 coupler last year and gave up. I ended up drilling and tapping a piece of 5/8 inch steel shaft that screws directly on the crankshaft end. Had a helluva time tapping it with my super-cheap Harbor freight tap & die set. But it worked great. Shaft runs completely true.
Thanks for that link to nutty.com. Fine thread AND grade 8. Primo.
Cannonball is right about the roller size. Actually, 7k rpm is kinda slow for these little motors. I would recommend 1 1/8 inch roller max. My 25cc homelite can really tell the difference when the roller is just the right size. Little changes make a big difference.
When I did my first friction drive, I tried running a bigger roller because I had a skateboard wheel and could only grind it down to about 1 3/4. I wasted time trying to get things running right with a roller that was too big. Live and learn.
I had to google "harvard frame". Yeah, I had one of those a million years ago when I was a teenager working on some project. A bed that rolls under another bed. I cut it up for angle iron, too. Can't remember now what I made with it.
So, you're going to keep the pull starter?
And WTF is going on with that bike? Fatbike tire and upside-down frame. Looks very intriguing, I must say.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Wickedest1
Member
Haha...the bike cant stay upside down...the cg would be way too far back and would just do wheelies...
Nutty.com i askeed the guy at the onlly physical nutty store left and there is no minimum order quantity except where posted on their site...
I think i am more excited about the new rubber supplier connect i made yesterday ...
The rubber guys have rag joint material ...aka conveyor belt...
He has and can get any thhickness or duro of rubber that you may ever want or need
no website but you can contact them by calling 203-736-9995 ownners name is jed manion..
He was sooooo excited when i showed him pics of cb2s fd roller...
Back on topic
Gonna read the roller size link now...
Then this bikes gettin built up as much as possible today...
Stay tuned for pics
Nutty.com i askeed the guy at the onlly physical nutty store left and there is no minimum order quantity except where posted on their site...
I think i am more excited about the new rubber supplier connect i made yesterday ...
The rubber guys have rag joint material ...aka conveyor belt...
He has and can get any thhickness or duro of rubber that you may ever want or need
no website but you can contact them by calling 203-736-9995 ownners name is jed manion..
He was sooooo excited when i showed him pics of cb2s fd roller...
Back on topic
Gonna read the roller size link now...
Then this bikes gettin built up as much as possible today...
Stay tuned for pics
Wickedest1
Member
Rollers are cut...
Waitin for the sun to heat up the shop before any metal is cut
Did a 1 1/4" roller...
Probably gonna cut a 1.5", 1.75" rollers too
Look at the pic and youll see ive got quite a bit of rubber left over...
Waitin for the sun to heat up the shop before any metal is cut
Did a 1 1/4" roller...
Probably gonna cut a 1.5", 1.75" rollers too
Look at the pic and youll see ive got quite a bit of rubber left over...
a_dam
New Member
Definitely! All that rubber was only five bucks? Good deal. I cut my rollers from hockey pucks. A puck costs about a dollar and yields me 2 rollers. I get about 2000 miles from a roller - one year of riding.
Wickedest1
Member
Well...man makes plans...god laughs...right?
I got the top engine mount bracket all ground out to clear the flywheel...then i realized...wrong piece of metal was ground down...poopy
The o.p. hasnt really been doing much on this buiild except staring at it...
So im kinda taking this over
Oh haha...hoping to get some time in today and re-do that top bracket
But man this knee really is effin me up
And in my endless collection of stuff you dont ever think youll use, i found a lil surprise for yall...
But its a secret for now...
Oh and i took a mtb gear selector apart, removed the click stop and is going to be used as a thumb throttle...
Pics
I got the top engine mount bracket all ground out to clear the flywheel...then i realized...wrong piece of metal was ground down...poopy
The o.p. hasnt really been doing much on this buiild except staring at it...
So im kinda taking this over
Oh haha...hoping to get some time in today and re-do that top bracket
But man this knee really is effin me up
And in my endless collection of stuff you dont ever think youll use, i found a lil surprise for yall...
But its a secret for now...
Oh and i took a mtb gear selector apart, removed the click stop and is going to be used as a thumb throttle...
Pics
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
I believe I ended up running a BMX peg. Don't remember the details. I believe my engine was a long shaft like a blower has. That may have made it easier. Seems the peg was 3/8 thread. That would center over the 5/16 crank pretty well. Your sleeve nut and washer would hold it to the flywheel and the flywheel to the crank. You could then hole saw some rubber washers that fit tightly into the peg. Add a bolt for the sleeve nut and a washer the will fit inside of the peg. When you tighten the bolt it expands the rubber supporting the peg. Just an idea if your other rollers don't work out.
A dams hockey puck rollers sound like a good choice too. Would probably hold a thread and thread right on to the crank Just some thoughts.
A dams hockey puck rollers sound like a good choice too. Would probably hold a thread and thread right on to the crank Just some thoughts.
Wickedest1
Member
gonna use a gate lock as the pivot plate for the motor...it fits nicely...u bolted to the top tube behind the seat post...offers a dual planed area for our motor to swing up and down on...
I think those rollers will do fine...the rubber is pretty grippy, and we essentially are gonna use threaded rod as the shaft making sandwiching the rubbers together a cinch...
just gotta get the longer piece of angle iron ground out to fit above the flywheel, then bolt all together...
my secret addition may take a few days to iron out...
bouncy bouncy...
oh and I found some 46lb springs to hold the motor down onto the tire, and the lever is only going to be used to lift the engine off the tire and will have some sort of locking mech to keep it up and off...
soon ladies and gentleriders
I think those rollers will do fine...the rubber is pretty grippy, and we essentially are gonna use threaded rod as the shaft making sandwiching the rubbers together a cinch...
just gotta get the longer piece of angle iron ground out to fit above the flywheel, then bolt all together...
my secret addition may take a few days to iron out...
bouncy bouncy...
oh and I found some 46lb springs to hold the motor down onto the tire, and the lever is only going to be used to lift the engine off the tire and will have some sort of locking mech to keep it up and off...
soon ladies and gentleriders
Wickedest1
Member
got a lot of progress done yesterday...just been catching up on things I neglected to do yesterday during my shop time so here goes:
got the pivot point secured using a 1 3/4" exhaust u bolt from autozone...its mint...
used up a few couplers as spacers to get our offset on the motor due to the structure of the frame and the width of the frame, and also its a 3" wide tire
so as it sits now I see we may have to add a bracket onto the other side of the bike tying into the motor mount plate due to the offset when the motor is down and engaged it has more weight on the engine side naturally so to off set that an additional plate on the other side, along with a decent weight spring should keep the engine sitting flush and allow the roller to make contact evenly over the wide tire...
I think all this having to narrow down and do all kinds of extras due to the odd frame, it shall make piece work of doing fd on a normal style framed bicycle
and just because I can barely keep my isht together from excitement heres a little seat (secret) spoiler...whatever you do don't crap your pants please...
enjoy
comments feedback and ingenuity welcome, (even negative)
got the pivot point secured using a 1 3/4" exhaust u bolt from autozone...its mint...
used up a few couplers as spacers to get our offset on the motor due to the structure of the frame and the width of the frame, and also its a 3" wide tire
so as it sits now I see we may have to add a bracket onto the other side of the bike tying into the motor mount plate due to the offset when the motor is down and engaged it has more weight on the engine side naturally so to off set that an additional plate on the other side, along with a decent weight spring should keep the engine sitting flush and allow the roller to make contact evenly over the wide tire...
I think all this having to narrow down and do all kinds of extras due to the odd frame, it shall make piece work of doing fd on a normal style framed bicycle
and just because I can barely keep my isht together from excitement heres a little seat (secret) spoiler...whatever you do don't crap your pants please...
enjoy
comments feedback and ingenuity welcome, (even negative)
Wickedest1
Member
here you can see the original mount I spoke of a bit more clearly in this picture
enjoy
enjoy
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Cool a suspension skate board!
Wickedest1
Member
I'm amazed that you can buy fasteners and hardened threaded rod so cheaply. Here in New Zealand that little lot would have cost considerably much more than what you paid.
An interesting project build by the way, I'll be following this thread from now on.
well miss, I was searching the nutty website to see if they had a particularly small shaft collar and found it of course, but heres the cool thing, they offer worldwide shipping and will honestly get you the cheapest possible solution...just a little fyi...
directly from www.nutty.com
under shipping faqs:
Worldwide Shipping: We compare all shipping rates to get your order expedited at the most reasonable cost. We will contact you with shipping cost before order is shipped.
Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
Thank you very kindly for that information 
I'll have a closer look at their website right away.
I'll have a closer look at their website right away.
Wickedest1
Member
some more progress today, and over the past however long since I last updated...
so the motor was sitting crooked when locked down onto the wheel, and that's not good...
so I thought to myself I need to mimic the motor mount plate on the other side of the tire, and tie into the existing framework of the motor mount...
still didn't solve my leaning issue, but at the same time it offered me a different area to add the tension spring to keep the motor locked down onto the wheel, while riding...
but this added the lift lever to the equation...no problem...
but I still had a leaning motor...I read in cb2's posts somewhere or maybe not, about pillow block bearings...I never heard of them, so I googled...theyre pretty neat looking devices, mechanically they seem simple, and really are just housed bearings with a mounting block...
I needed one to fit a 5/16ths shaft...I found them, but at an exorbitant rate...im not cheap, but im sure broke...so, I got to thinking of the basic design of a pillow block bearing...
then it dawned on me...what if...???
I thought about it and just decided to try and jury rig my own...
this is what I came up with, and its wicked
it did just what I needed it to do, level out the motor to reduce pressure on engine bearings, and keep the drive rollers right over the top of the tire...
man ive been so stoked all day about this...I seriously was at my local hardware place 4 times today...4 times...and one time for almost an hour sitting on the floor with extra piece of drive shaft to pick and poke through endless pulleys and bearings all jumbled and screwed up with no order
so heres what I did, I took a skateboard wheel, and it was a perfect fit for my shaft size, with abec 7's bearings nonetheless, ground out a flat on the wheel, on the table grinder, until it fit perfectly into a conduit hanger, 1 1/2" fit my wheel, and mounted it right to the uni rail...
took all of 15 minutes to do, once I had the realization to use the wheel...
did that, got it mounted and fired up the engine...sits perfectly on the tire, and I even stood on the chain stays and rode the 8 feet of my shop space...pulls nicely...and the bike is so little you could just stand up and ghost ride in an emergency...lol...it will have a kill switch...
and I mocked up the seat and shocks just to check what it would look like...I like it...
enjoy...
comments, suggestions and feedback welcome...
thanks for looking
so the motor was sitting crooked when locked down onto the wheel, and that's not good...
so I thought to myself I need to mimic the motor mount plate on the other side of the tire, and tie into the existing framework of the motor mount...
still didn't solve my leaning issue, but at the same time it offered me a different area to add the tension spring to keep the motor locked down onto the wheel, while riding...
but this added the lift lever to the equation...no problem...
but I still had a leaning motor...I read in cb2's posts somewhere or maybe not, about pillow block bearings...I never heard of them, so I googled...theyre pretty neat looking devices, mechanically they seem simple, and really are just housed bearings with a mounting block...
I needed one to fit a 5/16ths shaft...I found them, but at an exorbitant rate...im not cheap, but im sure broke...so, I got to thinking of the basic design of a pillow block bearing...
then it dawned on me...what if...???
I thought about it and just decided to try and jury rig my own...
this is what I came up with, and its wicked
it did just what I needed it to do, level out the motor to reduce pressure on engine bearings, and keep the drive rollers right over the top of the tire...
man ive been so stoked all day about this...I seriously was at my local hardware place 4 times today...4 times...and one time for almost an hour sitting on the floor with extra piece of drive shaft to pick and poke through endless pulleys and bearings all jumbled and screwed up with no order
so heres what I did, I took a skateboard wheel, and it was a perfect fit for my shaft size, with abec 7's bearings nonetheless, ground out a flat on the wheel, on the table grinder, until it fit perfectly into a conduit hanger, 1 1/2" fit my wheel, and mounted it right to the uni rail...
took all of 15 minutes to do, once I had the realization to use the wheel...
did that, got it mounted and fired up the engine...sits perfectly on the tire, and I even stood on the chain stays and rode the 8 feet of my shop space...pulls nicely...and the bike is so little you could just stand up and ghost ride in an emergency...lol...it will have a kill switch...
and I mocked up the seat and shocks just to check what it would look like...I like it...
enjoy...
comments, suggestions and feedback welcome...
thanks for looking