This is my Stealth Bomber
- Thread starter biknut
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- electric bicycle
Yes, it's been a great bike. It did cost a lot, but I can't fault the quality. Hard to believe it's been 7 years, and 15,000 miles.
Yes I agree. Stealth's are lousy pedal bikes to start with, because they weigh too much. For riders like myself that ride almost exclusively on the street the main reason for pedaling is to defend the bicycle loophole. At first I thought that might be a thing , but time and experience has shown it's not going to be an issue. That being the case I'm going for comfort, and style. Riding the Stealth like a pedal bike never did feel right to me.
Yes. It is pretty much impossible to make an ebike that is easy to pedal look as good as a Stealth, Sur Ron, etc
This is my new Stealth Bomber, electric motor bicycle. So new in fact that I've only managed to pedal it up and down my block 2 times. I have plans to customize it to make it mine, but right now nothing is carved in stone. I welcome your suggestions. I ride in the concrete jungle, so that's the direction I'm heading with modifications.
All I've done to it so far is install low profile street tires to replace the knobblies that came on it from the factory. The only other work was to start installing a headlight. It didn't come with any lights or a kickstand.
The bike is officially designed to be a down hill racer, but I'll be using it more along the lines of a super motard that hardly ever sees the dirt.
Power output is electronically governed to the U.S. limit of 750w, and 20 mph top speed. Ungoverned off road power output is 4500w with a 50 mph top speed. The battery is 1500kW, with a 2 hour charge time, and up to 50 mile range.
It has something like 10" of suspension travel front and rear, adjustable for preload, and rebound.
This is the beginning.
Found a new beer hole with good parking.
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After 9 years of riding bliss, time and technology findly passed Electronaut by. But not for long. Actually it started happening in 2017. A full 4 years after I bought it, which is a tribute to have far ahead of it's time Stealth was. 4 years is a long time in the electronics world.
Anyway, back in August on a 100 plus degree day, after a couple of refreshing 10.0 cups from a local brewery, I was racing my son home on his own Bomber. After dropping him off I should have gone home, but instead I decided to keep racing around by myself. After a few more miles apprently one of my halls failed. it was the first electrical failure my bike ever suffered. Instead of immediately turning it off, I tried to throttle it the rest of the way home, and ended up killing the controller.
I took me 2 months, but it's back on the road again, and better than ever after upgrading the motor, and controller. Was a little over 6 hp, now over 8 hp with more modern parts.
Anyway, back in August on a 100 plus degree day, after a couple of refreshing 10.0 cups from a local brewery, I was racing my son home on his own Bomber. After dropping him off I should have gone home, but instead I decided to keep racing around by myself. After a few more miles apprently one of my halls failed. it was the first electrical failure my bike ever suffered. Instead of immediately turning it off, I tried to throttle it the rest of the way home, and ended up killing the controller.
I took me 2 months, but it's back on the road again, and better than ever after upgrading the motor, and controller. Was a little over 6 hp, now over 8 hp with more modern parts.
I made an adapter for the controller so I wouldn't need to drill any holes in the frame.
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This is a before and after. If you don't know what to look for you won't notice any difference. All the changes are subtle except the 1/3 more power which kind of smacks you in the face.
This is the final result. Only thing missing is the new throttle I'm waiting for. In the mean time I'm using a paddle
After the upgrade my bike has gone from 4500w to 6000w. It now has a modern programable 80 amp Kelly controller, and QS205 motor. Although I've yet to top it out, I don't expect much difference in top speed, maybe 1 or 2 mph, but it gets there a lot quicker. Just by accident riding in traffic I've seen 52 mph a couple of times. The biggest noticeable improvement is in the mid range, and top end acceleration.
After playing with 72v and 120 amp setups for almost 18 months. I decided instead to go with 48v and 50 amps and lower gearing. 20 amp battery gets good range and cost is quite low. I realized for my use that 35 mph with good torque was a better setup with clincher tires and a hard tail.
I like the Stealth setup you are now running and fifties are good speed for your bike and safe in that configuration. I can well believe it's quicker now with more torque from higher current. Since you didn't mention increasing battery voltage I wouldn't have expected much change in speed, if any.
Good decision and nice bike!
Rick C.
I like the Stealth setup you are now running and fifties are good speed for your bike and safe in that configuration. I can well believe it's quicker now with more torque from higher current. Since you didn't mention increasing battery voltage I wouldn't have expected much change in speed, if any.
Good decision and nice bike!
Rick C.
I can relate to your conclusion about lower power. I have my controller configured for 2 power ranges which can be toggled on the fly. The low range is set to top out about 35 mph, but still has decent acceleration. It does pretty good in traffic, and offers noticeably better range. I'm liking it more and more.
I have a controller with three "speed" ranges on a vintage style bike. I don't want meters, switches etc. to show and look digital or even analog on my classic builds gas or electric. Yet in actual daily riding I miss them. On my e-MTB and my fat tire electrics I use them.
I've used a variety of controllers of varying complexities, prices, power and configuribility. Each have their positive and negitive points. At this point for vintage bikes I've settled on 50 amp contiuous for 48v bikes, simple non programmible and inexpensive units that I don't need to fuss with. Plug and ride, but they have one really bad characteristic and that being the very real lack of throttle roll on, that results in jerky starts. More like a on off switch which then becomes a throttle, hard to initiate a smooth take off. The programmables are really smooth in contrast. Once under way no problems though. With my mid motor chain drives using both a primary and secondary heavy chains, not the pedal chain, the jerk is more noticeable than on my e-hub motor bikes but it's noticeable on both.
I do make concessions in function versus classic styling in other areas as well, within the bounds of safety, but really like modern e- tech advances in everyday design and riding.
Rick C.
I've used a variety of controllers of varying complexities, prices, power and configuribility. Each have their positive and negitive points. At this point for vintage bikes I've settled on 50 amp contiuous for 48v bikes, simple non programmible and inexpensive units that I don't need to fuss with. Plug and ride, but they have one really bad characteristic and that being the very real lack of throttle roll on, that results in jerky starts. More like a on off switch which then becomes a throttle, hard to initiate a smooth take off. The programmables are really smooth in contrast. Once under way no problems though. With my mid motor chain drives using both a primary and secondary heavy chains, not the pedal chain, the jerk is more noticeable than on my e-hub motor bikes but it's noticeable on both.
I do make concessions in function versus classic styling in other areas as well, within the bounds of safety, but really like modern e- tech advances in everyday design and riding.
Rick C.