The Evil Onyx Build Thread

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chillphillyphil

New Member
Dec 28, 2012
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Sarasota, FL
This will be the official build thread for my new project I've entitled, "The Evil Onyx". Only my second build ever.

I chose the Genesis Onyx 29 inch cruiser simply because it's what I feel is a big, stable, and clean frame to build the project off of. Secondly because it's what I would consider to be a "budget" bike as it's priced under $200. Lastly because I love the way it looks. I will attempt to retain the simplicity that the original bike offered throughout the build. Whether or not my obsessive-insanity changes that vision, is yet to be seen.

I've rode this bike to work many times, and my impression is that it is a very comfortable ride and requires very little effort to propel. This is good news in the way that the motor will seemingly require little effort as well - once those big wheels get rolling. I've already eliminated as much stock junk as possible, and feel it's naked enough to dub as it were, "a clean canvas".

I'm optimistic, I know there will be several hurdles given the over-sized frame and wheels, but I shall overcome with my progressing skills and the ever expanding knowledge of my fellow forum friends. The engine is already on it's way, and should be here on Monday. I will keep you all up-to-date with any progress I make on this build.

.flg.

Here are some pictures to give you an idea of what I will be working with:





 
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2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
We'll be watching, Phil.
You have a good platform and a positive attitude. That should go a long way toward producing a successful bike.
Keep us informed.

Tom
 

chillphillyphil

New Member
Dec 28, 2012
32
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0
Sarasota, FL
We'll be watching, Phil.
You have a good platform and a positive attitude. That should go a long way toward producing a successful bike.
Keep us informed.

Tom
I have subscribed.
This oughta be good!
I'm confident and secure with great builder support from fellow forum members like you guys, much appreciated, and it's reassuring to know that the build is of interest. I'll try to keep it interesting enough for you all. :)
 
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chillphillyphil

New Member
Dec 28, 2012
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Sarasota, FL
The Evil Onyx - Motor Has Arrived

I raced home today, took every shortcut I knew and caught the FedEX man just as he was leaving my driveway. Blocked the road off and had him relinquish the package - here she is!



Grubee 2012 GT5 66/80cc. Probably one of the more popular kits out there, but this being only my second build, I didn't want to falter too much from the recipe. Everything arrived exactly as gasbikes.net said and just so you know, you won't receive a tracking number for 3-4 days - so don't sweat.

So, I already checked the fitting on the frame (of course) and I noticed that the rear mount needs to be shaved slightly, the gas tank needs an alternate method for mounting as the studs aren't long enough (maybe just use some extra long nuts), and there will of course have to be some fabrication on the front mount if I don't want to drill through the frame (not sure which way to go on this one yet.) I figure I'll also have to rotate the rear fender and/or cut it so the sprocket drive chain won't rub. Other then that, it looks like smooth sailing. Going to wait a few days and see how I feel about mounting the motor, after I get a good coat of engine paint on it. I'll keep you all upto date.
 

2door

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Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Phil,
Hardware stores should carry something called a 'coupling nut' made for joining threaded rod. It's essentially an elongated nut that you can thread onto the tank studs then either add a short piece of threaded (5mm) rod or screws/bolts long enough to span the width of the top tube to mount your fuel tank.

Don't drill your frame. Find an alternative for the front mount. Do you have a welder?

Tom
 

chillphillyphil

New Member
Dec 28, 2012
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Sarasota, FL
Phil,
Hardware stores should carry something called a 'coupling nut' made for joining threaded rod. It's essentially an elongated nut that you can thread onto the tank studs then either add a short piece of threaded (5mm) rod or screws/bolts long enough to span the width of the top tube to mount your fuel tank.

Don't drill your frame. Find an alternative for the front mount. Do you have a welder?

Tom
Hey Tom, yes "coupling nut" that's the word I was looking for. We're on the same page for that one.

As for drilling into the frame, my thoughts are alternatively to make an elongated plate for which the motor to bolt into, weld it to a peice of halfed anodized steel pipe and then secure it to the frame with extended ubolts from underneath. My only concern is that any vibration may wear on the aluminum, but perhaps a thin rubber layer inside the pipe and some fuel line over the ubolts will add some protection - in addition to making sure everything is tightened routinely.
 

Kioshk

Active Member
Oct 21, 2012
1,152
10
38
Connecticut
Good luck with it! BOO on the CNS carb, though. I started with a Skyhawk kit too, and I wished I'd have replaced the carb with an NT Speed long before I did...works really well with the GT5 and you'll avoid the headaches of tuning the CNS. You can pick up an NT Speed carb on EBay for less than $20. The throttle cable in the Skyhawk kit will fit the NT.
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,631
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Dallas
One thing you need to order is new handle bars. Yours are going to be too big diameter for the grips to fit.
 

chillphillyphil

New Member
Dec 28, 2012
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Sarasota, FL
Really Cool ! I'll be interested to hear how the 2012 Grubee runs out. It's gonna be a fine looking bike .
My Neighbor has the same motor, it's much louder than the motor I have on The Dirty Rat Build I've done. Which Concerns me a bit as I would like to keep the motor as quiet as possible. In-fact, when I ordered this motor I was intending to order the older model motor but was forced to ordered this model for $1 more as they were no longer in-stock. Thanks for the compliment as well - im excited.

Good luck with your build. I built one for a friend last fall. An Onyx can be a little bit of a challenge because everything is big on the bike. One good thing it has going for it is, it's a very strong bike like all Kent bicycles, and it has stronger wheels than most.

Here's a pic of the one I made you can use as inspiration.

http://motorbicycling.com/picture.php?albumid=5&pictureid=5339

One thing you need to order is new handle bars. Yours are going to be too big diameter for the grips to fit.
Thank you, and you're absolutely correct everything is bigger, so far nothing has gone on the bike without there being some sort of modification needed. I've already broken off one of the connecting rods on the fuel tank when I was mounting it on the oversized frame (oops), but I will find a solution for that later. Additionally theres obviously the motor mounts (do you have a close-up picture of your solution?) and the handlebars like you've said. I almost had a stroke trying to get the one grip on. Id like to find some black ones. Ultimately I would like these:



However, since anything I do is budget pending - I'll most likely have to find a temporary solution until I get what I want.

So yes, there have been many setbacks as far as getting this build together, and my long work hours aren't helping. Things aren't going together as fast as I would like but it's nice to not have to worry about the pressures of having this bike done as "The Dirty Rat" is reliable enough to get me to work and back on a regular basis. Still stoked.
 

chillphillyphil

New Member
Dec 28, 2012
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Sarasota, FL
The Evil Onyx - Motor Painted

So I haven't made as much progress as I would have liked, but here's a picture of the painted engine to tide you over until I get more pictures and do more work ;) Rustoleum 500+ Degree oil resistant Engine Paint.

 

2door

Moderator
Staff member
Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
This is fun watching. I'm really looking forward to seeing this one completed. Those bars you pictured would be awesome.

Great paint on the engine. You could sand and polish the tips of the fins. That'd give you something to do while the check book recovers. :) A Dremel with a 1/4" fine grit sanding drum then a buffing wheel and compound works great for that.

Tom
 

biknut

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2010
6,631
409
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Dallas
Additionally theres obviously the motor mounts (do you have a close-up picture of your solution?)
Here's what I was able to do, but this may not help you much. This is a manic mechanic motor mount, but it was probably the last one. I bought it from BikeBerry. You might contact them to see if they're expecting any more. This was the 1-11/16" size, and was a tad small for the frame, but after fileing on it a little it fit. Everything is so big on that frame. This is the link.

http://www.bikeberry.com/engine-kit...echanic-cnc-2-stroke-engine-motor-mounts.html

 

motorhedfred

Member
Jul 31, 2009
421
17
18
United States
A REAR sway bar mount for pretty much any year Chevy P-30 van is a near perfect fit around the down tube. Get the complete mount with the steel brackets too, not just the replacement bushing. I don't know what your mounting bolt spacing is, but a piece of flat steel or aluminum strap should take care of that.

The diameter of the seat tube is about the same size as the FRONT sway bar on an '82 -'92 Chevy Z/28 if you need something for the rear. These give you a gentle squeeze on the aluminum tubing these bikes are made from and absorb some vibration as well......just a suggestion.

As for the tank....if you don't mind paying more for a fuel tank than you probably paid for the whole bike.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wassell-sty...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c71ec550&vxp=mtr

To use this tank, you might have to heat and squeeze the top tube a bit to narrow it down.

MHF
 
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chillphillyphil

New Member
Dec 28, 2012
32
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0
Sarasota, FL
This is fun watching. I'm really looking forward to seeing this one completed. Those bars you pictured would be awesome.

Great paint on the engine. You could sand and polish the tips of the fins. That'd give you something to do while the check book recovers. :) A Dremel with a 1/4" fine grit sanding drum then a buffing wheel and compound works great for that.

Tom
Excellent Idea Tom, I definently respect the look and the effort put into a look like that. I feel as though it will take away from the look I'm going after though, I am not a fan of chrome and polished metals and feel like little details like that may take away from the simple design I have in mind. Thank you though.

A REAR sway bar mount for pretty much any year Chevy P-30 van is a near perfect fit around the down tube. Get the complete mount with the steel brackets too, not just the replacement bushing. I don't know what your mounting bolt spacing is, but a piece of flat steel or aluminum strap should take care of that.

The diameter of the seat tube is about the same size as the FRONT sway bar on an '82 -'92 Chevy Z/28 if you need something for the rear. These give you a gentle squeeze on the aluminum tubing these bikes are made from and absorb some vibration as well......just a suggestion.

As for the tank....if you don't mind paying more for a fuel tank than you probably paid for the whole bike.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wassell-sty...Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c71ec550&vxp=mtr

To use this tank, you might have to heat and squeeze the top tube a bit to narrow it down.

MHF
Very impressive use of older vehicle parts! I will have to look into the motor mounts more and see if it's financially worthwhile to collect those parts! The tank is the bobber-ish look I'm going for, the price just isn't where I would like it to be. Perfect design however to fill in all that negative space above the engine - oh so tempting!

Here's what I was able to do, but this may not help you much. This is a manic mechanic motor mount, but it was probably the last one. I bought it from BikeBerry. You might contact them to see if they're expecting any more. This was the 1-11/16" size, and was a tad small for the frame, but after fileing on it a little it fit. Everything is so big on that frame. This is the link.

http://www.bikeberry.com/engine-kit...echanic-cnc-2-stroke-engine-motor-mounts.html

That mount is very impressive, albeit a bit bulky in it's nature. The turnoff is the price-point however. I'm a cheap-ass, I know guys. But I'm intending to find a way to build this bike in strict budgeted sort of way. So with that in mind, here is an idea for the mount I was envisioning:



It's a 2inch tube clamp kit and runs at $10-$14. With a modified top plate, the motor would mount to this and perhaps with all that Polypropylene, some of that vibration wouldn't travel to the frame. Your thoughts everyone?
 
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