Knowing that the Chinese and the supply chain in the States watch threads like this, I wonder how long it will be before one of the big suppliers start offering these carbs and a manifold for sale. Or will they attempt to reinvent the carb with a version of their own???
Stihi Carb
- Thread starter cannonball2
- Start date
The pumper style carbs have been run for a while. There are adapters out there to bolt the carb directly to the engine and another to use the cone style air filter, but most I have seen are $40 for the pair. Almost 3x the carb cost! That's the reason I made my own manifold set up. Not very pretty but works great.
I had not researched these carbs for a while and was really surprised how cheap the are now. A carb like this used to be in excess of a hundred bucks!
At $16 I gambled and won. All of my CGs will have one.
I had not researched these carbs for a while and was really surprised how cheap the are now. A carb like this used to be in excess of a hundred bucks!
At $16 I gambled and won. All of my CGs will have one.
Thanks yall!
Ron344
The gear setup was a hard won battle but works great. It's a bit different than most hubs in that top gear is 1:1 instead of being overdriven. This means lower ratios in the first two gears allow for the top gear to carry a higher ratio than the more common hubs that have a 1:1 middle gear and only 1 lower gear.
This hub is locked also so pedal starting and engine braking are possible. Plus it's more heavy duty than most.
This carb has added some power but think the bike still a bit over geared. Cruises at a very relaxed rpm at 35 which is fast enough.
Ron344
The gear setup was a hard won battle but works great. It's a bit different than most hubs in that top gear is 1:1 instead of being overdriven. This means lower ratios in the first two gears allow for the top gear to carry a higher ratio than the more common hubs that have a 1:1 middle gear and only 1 lower gear.
This hub is locked also so pedal starting and engine braking are possible. Plus it's more heavy duty than most.
This carb has added some power but think the bike still a bit over geared. Cruises at a very relaxed rpm at 35 which is fast enough.
The pdf for the saw, the carb is covered on page 27 https://m.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/instructionmanuals/STIHL-041-Farm-Boss-Instruction-Manual.pdf
Thanks DC
It's good to have the initial settings. I really never counted the settings after setting them up on my bikes. Guess I should do that. The carb is way rich as received.
As I thought the idle speed screw is part of the saw and not the carb. Idles fine as is.
It's good to have the initial settings. I really never counted the settings after setting them up on my bikes. Guess I should do that. The carb is way rich as received.
As I thought the idle speed screw is part of the saw and not the carb. Idles fine as is.
I have saved all of the info you and others have posted, I will eventually put it all in pdf format. Once we finally get spring and the cold weather is past us, I want to try this. Is there anyway to post a pdf on a thread, if it hasn't ever been posted on the Internet?
here is the info about the air filter needed for the carb.
here is the info about the air filter needed for the carb.
Yeah its odd.
I set out to make a geared hub drive with it all on the left. In other words no jack shaft. It's a Sturmy Archer fixie hub. A normal hub in that position would just free wheel. This one has no free wheeling. It wouldn't matter what side you ran it on. I have built several bikes that run the Shimano Nexus. The drive has to cross to the right to do it. I wanted to simplify that. I call it a concentric transmission, it's similar to the separate engine/transmission motorcycles.
Also you can't pedal start the common geared hub. This one you can. This hub is stout it easily handles the loading of pedal starting. I normally start it in second. The normal derailleur shifter bike works well but is very busy gearing up and down. The geared hub can be stopped in third and shifted into first sitting still. This build works very well and the only issue has been the loss of a master link on the secondary chain. I repaired it as an endless chain and expect no further issues.
The build is threaded here on the forum. Don't remember the title, though it shouldn't be too hard to find if you search my profile.
To further use the geared hub I drive one backwards on the left side on a friction drive. That is the strangest build I have done. Uses a Maytag twin cylinder engine.
I set out to make a geared hub drive with it all on the left. In other words no jack shaft. It's a Sturmy Archer fixie hub. A normal hub in that position would just free wheel. This one has no free wheeling. It wouldn't matter what side you ran it on. I have built several bikes that run the Shimano Nexus. The drive has to cross to the right to do it. I wanted to simplify that. I call it a concentric transmission, it's similar to the separate engine/transmission motorcycles.
Also you can't pedal start the common geared hub. This one you can. This hub is stout it easily handles the loading of pedal starting. I normally start it in second. The normal derailleur shifter bike works well but is very busy gearing up and down. The geared hub can be stopped in third and shifted into first sitting still. This build works very well and the only issue has been the loss of a master link on the secondary chain. I repaired it as an endless chain and expect no further issues.
The build is threaded here on the forum. Don't remember the title, though it shouldn't be too hard to find if you search my profile.
To further use the geared hub I drive one backwards on the left side on a friction drive. That is the strangest build I have done. Uses a Maytag twin cylinder engine.
Thanks Curt!
As crazy as this build is it works well and is easy to ride. The little Maytag doesn't make much power but thanks to the geared hub it will make 20+.
It is in its own way like riding was early in the last century, slow and relaxed.
As crazy as this build is it works well and is easy to ride. The little Maytag doesn't make much power but thanks to the geared hub it will make 20+.
It is in its own way like riding was early in the last century, slow and relaxed.
That's the way i remember it, and about the only thing i have ridden seance is a friction drive, about the same speed. LOL Sure is Kool what can you see doing it, and would miss in a car or going faster. Take time to smell the roses.
Just love your simple approach to building, instead of all the high tech, like this carb change. My build has a 1 3/4 hp Lauson, with home made clutch, ( hope it works ) it to should be fun to ride...........Curt
Just love your simple approach to building, instead of all the high tech, like this carb change. My build has a 1 3/4 hp Lauson, with home made clutch, ( hope it works ) it to should be fun to ride...........Curt
Thanks CB for information on the hub. I would really like to try that on one of bikes, maybe the next one I build. I also really like your Maytag build I remembered when you started building it I just didn't remember hub on it. Nice job on the fiction drive.
Hello I just built my first Motorized bike. I read what you did for a new carb . I also have the 80cc/66cc engine. I got it from gasbike.net what I got from your what is the device in line with your chain?
Its a Sturmey Archer 3sp fixie hub used as a transmission.
Works well. Only a fixie hub will work on the left. I wanted a trans set up that didn't require a crossover or the complexity of a normal shifter bike. Its much easier to use and gears can be selected sitting still.
Works well. Only a fixie hub will work on the left. I wanted a trans set up that didn't require a crossover or the complexity of a normal shifter bike. Its much easier to use and gears can be selected sitting still.
So now that the weather has cooled at bit the MBs hit the roadroad almost daily. I really like this carb! With temp swings from the 40s to the 80s the adjustment capability is really nice.
Have been riding the bike with the Zeda 66cc and the modded Zeda boost pipe. The carb is works well with this set up.
I would reccommed this carb if one has the ability to fit it and understand its adjustments. Its a good clean and consistant runner. Its better suited for a high end build but does fine on a stocker so long as its geared to rev. Has a decent bottom end and a great idle, but rips when on the main circuit. would be a good carb to work engine mods with as its just a needle twist to accommodate changes, not a search for the right jets.
Have been riding the bike with the Zeda 66cc and the modded Zeda boost pipe. The carb is works well with this set up.
I would reccommed this carb if one has the ability to fit it and understand its adjustments. Its a good clean and consistant runner. Its better suited for a high end build but does fine on a stocker so long as its geared to rev. Has a decent bottom end and a great idle, but rips when on the main circuit. would be a good carb to work engine mods with as its just a needle twist to accommodate changes, not a search for the right jets.
The ones I used were made from stock intakes as described in the first part of the thread. There were some sold by various sellers on the net, you will have to search for them to see if they are still out there. Seems like they were in the $30-40 range.
