Step-by-Step DIY Rectifier Instructions

sweet... wired up the caps, and got the leads ready for the battery. now on to the lighting and a good supplier or 6v led headlights.
 
What about those cheap led flashlights that uses 3 AAA batteries = 4.5 volt with a higher resistor, or 2 of them in series?
 
I hooked my unit up to the motor and the battery, as soon as the positive lead touched the battery, the motor stalled.

I tried to meter it, and the voltage was almost strobing. I'm thinking I have a bad wind on the white wire coil. I'm thinking also, that I may look into the 12v add on coil on Ebay.

My headlight will be built in a few days, 7 of those little LED flashlights, in a gatling gun headlight configuration.
 
Double check to make sure the white wire is going to the ~ symbol and not the + or - on the rectifier. The white wire does put out strobing electricity, and the capacitors used to smooth that out a bit.
 
Yes, the white wire is going to one of the ~, then, the caps are wired ++ and -- with a lead coming of the common of each pole. I may have to try using a resistor in the mix as the battery is like 3ah and 6v it might be a bit of a draw if the battery isn't fully charged. I also may get some different caps as i used the 3300uf 16v caps (if I remember right).
 
IT WORKS!!!!!!

My meter is all screwy, but, as far as I can tell, between 5 and 7 volts at the battery depending on RPM. I even powered a 12v 55w lamp on it for a few minutes (I just wanted to see if it would) LED lighting should work AWESOME on it now, even 12v lighint will last a while on LED.
 
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awesome!. i havn't installed mine on my bike yet.
it is because i'm unemployed & want to get a few more things for my wiring harness.
i can't afford to spend anything right now.
 
So, I just built this (all parts from RS) and I was reading 12 VAC. The resistors in the circuit count as a load, correct? Also, as I was measuring voltages and stuff, everything suddenly went dead. No volts. To make sure my meter didn't die on me, I went and tested my car battery, and it read perfectly. I think somehow I managed to burn out my rectifier in my circuit...

Any input?
 
Upon reinspecting my circuit, it appears I did a poor solder job and the positive terminal coming off of the rectifier wasn't contacting the caps or the resistor. I resoldered it, and its working just fine, even reading 15 VAC now, instead of the 12 VAC I was getting previously (though my idle may have been slightly higher this time around).
 
rohmell said:
For anyone interested, the schematic is:
Click to expand...
good guys, I've been following this post very carefully, and ba question I ask is this - this bridge rectifier is also shown to carry a battery 6volts?
because my question! I rode a small coil 6volts opposite the coil and the CDI engine is running generates a voltage between 4-6 volts mediate the RPM and just used a diode rectifier that carried its battery, it worked for a space time, it happens that currently is not charging the battery, and to make sure I acarga battery with an external charger, I see that slaughter does not receive more cargo. I therefore conclude that the battery lost its charge properties to receive a possibly faulty bridge rectifier. This scheme will be the presenter indicated to charge the battery?
 
i tried this with my bike and a cars 12v brake light (or something) that has 19 5mm leds
and the lamp was bright so it was generating 12v or more on IDLE SPEED. havent measured how much voltage it pumps out because my voltmeter goes crazy near my bike when its running , maby the coil or someting flips it out.
 
talbotti said:
i tried this with my bike and a cars 12v brake light (or something) that has 19 5mm leds
and the lamp was bright so it was generating 12v or more on IDLE SPEED. havent measured how much voltage it pumps out because my voltmeter goes crazy near my bike when its running , maby the coil or someting flips it out.
Click to expand...

You sure you have it hooked to the right wire?
 
yeah i wired it ok, center pins are input and the outter are output and the rectifier even has markings witch side is negative and positive.
 
If you use 12V leds, like a trailer running light, you don't need a rectifier or capacitors at all. It will strobe a bit but when underway, it is almost solid iight. I also had success with 2 and 3 cree 1W stars in series. No rectifier needed, the leds are diodes.
 
i putted the white wire to ac plus input and the negative to ground.
yeah im planning to run 1w cree or maby 3 wats, will the white wire pump enough juice for 3 watt cree???
 
Here is the schematic for an adjustable voltage regulator (see attachment). It is comprised of a LM317, with a potentiometer to adjust the voltage the regulator limits at. It can be set anywhere between 0V to Supply Voltage (you guys said that was around 4 to 6V, right?).
 

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