springer fork

OK, I'm looking at all these springer forks available and my next question is, "what about front brakes?"
I'm pretty handy with metal fabrication so mounting my existing brakes shouldn't present a big problem. I would guess from the pix that most of these are designed for other than caliper, cantilever style brakes but fabbing a mount shouldn't be a big issue. It's just a matter of getting the alignment right...right? I mean as long as the pads are aligned with the rim correctly, what's the problem with adapting my brakes to a springer?
Tom
 
Tracfodder is correct about these being cheap, I check mine before every ride and would not want anyone hurt because I said these were quality forks, I would not want to hit a large pot hole with them. But I like the ride and I take the risk. I welded the mounting bracket to the fork-tacked it in place while everything was aligned. Gator Disk brake=$19.00
 

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I used a mountain bike front wheel on mine to get the disc to mount. Now that I have seen the monarch forks I would probly spend the money, but I have not used them personely, They sure look good. So many options, might even get a drum brake next time.
 
Tracfodder is correct about these being cheap, I check mine before every ride and would not want anyone hurt because I said these were quality forks, I would not want to hit a large pot hole with them. But I like the ride and I take the risk. I welded the mounting bracket to the fork-tacked it in place while everything was aligned. Gator Disk brake=$19.00
Texas, I'm really interested in your front disc set-up. Does the front mountain
bike wheel have to have a disc mounted to it? I have a stock springer that came
with my DiamondBack Della-Cruz bike. I realize that I will have to weld the caliper
mounting bracket to the fork, but I'm lost as far as looking for the wheel that would
use the disc set-up. What do you suggest? Thanks
 
I made a adaptor from a large washer. Drilled holes to match the hub and welded it to the disc, Don't try to weld the hub, First experiment warped the hub. The ideal thing would be a rim made for disc brake but this rim was large and had room for the bolts. It stops on a dime, but as I stated earlyer, I baby that front fork and always use the coaster and disc. Its there if I need it though, can lock up both brakes if I have to. Had just rear brakes, but could see my self over shootting an intersection.
 
I have that springer fork you are talking about not sure if it will work on my setup but I do like the looks of it
on my trike/bike that I am building.
http://motorbicycling.com/images/styles/silverblue/attach/jpg.gif
This is the only way I have to show what my springer fork looks like some in here call it by a different name
but at Battleaxecycles online this is what they call a springer fork and a lot of other places call this the same.
To each his or her own :-)
But you may have to cut some of it off I did but it was easy thing to do if you do mess it up you can buy just
the part you cut off wrong.I got lucky I cut mine just right the first time weeeeeee.Ok so I had to cut it more than
one time but it still work out just fine.Good luck to you.
 

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Hey...Look what I found at a local bike shop today. $40.00 and it's the same as the Pyramid, just a different brand name, Star, imported by J-B products out of Miami and naturally, made in Taiwan. It is already set up for brakes and mine will mount exactly where they are now. No mods needed and I've measured everything. It came highly recommened by the old boy who owns the shop. Said he will not sell questionable parts because of his liability if a part fails and a customer gets hurt. He restores old bikes in his spare time and has used this fork when he couldn't find a Monarch for his cruisers.
I'll probably install it in the next couple of days. Weather is too good right now to tear the bike apart. I'll keep you posted.
Tom
 

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The monark forks are nice but mine took several hours to get right. There is no lower crown race, the steering tube is too long for my frame and not threaded far enough to cut it down, they were not straight i.e. needed tuning and pivots needed reconfiguration. All and all not a bolt on replacement.

The Sturmey-Archer hub is really nice and will mount right up to the girder. A bit more finiky w/ the springer though. The Sturmey-Archer hubs are my favorite front brake because they are very linear, they stop you fast w/o ever locking up. I stock those hubs and can hand build you a wheel w/ 11 gauge spokes and match your rim or use your existing front rim and save you some duckets.
 

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Btw the schwinn Springer (girder), if you can find one is the nicest sprung fork I've seen. It pivots in bushings w/ zerks to grease the pivot shaft. It weighs about ten lbs, it's stout.
 
Done........
It ain't no Cadilac but it rides smoother. That shock to the arms is gone...
It was a bolt on. Everything fit perfect except my headlight mount so I had to make another one. I had to trim 1/4" off the steering post and that was it. My brakes went right back where they were and it only took three hours from start to finish including making a new light bracket and rewiring the light because the wires were too short.
Anyone interested in a springer I'd highly recommend this one. Pyrimid, Star, Sun...by any other name it 's still a good investemnt. $40.00, but I've seen them as high as $70.00. I got lucky and found it at a quaint little bike shop in Denver on a side street in a quiet, old neighborhood. One of those places that has been there for years, has a faithful following and no one seems to know about it. His walls were plastered with color photos of classic bikes and his work bench looked like an operating room.
But I degress. I'm glad I made the switch from rigid to sprung. Anyone need a nice black fork?
Tom
 

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Looks good! watch the bolts for awhile, I did not want to over tork mine and under torked them and it wabbles if they get loose, I alos put a locking nut on the main spring so it would never back out. But I love mine, thats for sure.
 
Looks good! watch the bolts for awhile, I did not want to over tork mine and under torked them and it wabbles if they get loose, I alos put a locking nut on the main spring so it would never back out. But I love mine, thats for sure.
Thanks Dave,
Yeah, I'm a firm believer in Loctite, use it on everything that might work loose. I can't believe the difference in ride. I should have done this months ago. The center bolt that goes through the spring had thread locker on it but I had to take it out for the headlight mount so I put new Loctire on it when I put it back together. I left the spring at the minimum tension 'cause I'm a lightweight and need all the spring I can get. I can ride and watch the spring work. It's amazing how much it compresses on even a smooth road. I went for a three mile ride after I finished the install and it felt like a different bike.
Tom
 
The monark forks are nice but mine took several hours to get right. There is no lower crown race, the steering tube is too long for my frame and not threaded far enough to cut it down, they were not straight i.e. needed tuning and pivots needed reconfiguration. All and all not a bolt on replacement.

The Sturmey-Archer hub is really nice and will mount right up to the girder. A bit more finiky w/ the springer though. The Sturmey-Archer hubs are my favorite front brake because they are very linear, they stop you fast w/o ever locking up. I stock those hubs and can hand build you a wheel w/ 11 gauge spokes and match your rim or use your existing front rim and save you some duckets.
Thanks Tyr,
I'm so light,. 140lb, that I actually rarely use my front brakes. My rears stop me easily and I'll apply my fronts only if I really want to put on the binders quickly. That Sturmey hub is certainly pretty though and maybe someday I'll look at an upgrade. My main concern was the rough, rigid ride and this springer looked attractive. The threaded portion of the steering tube was just 1/2" longer than my original but with the added thickness of the spring perch I only needed to remove 1/4" and everything fit perfectly. TexasDave warned me about keeping the nuts and bolts tight so I've used Loctite on them and I'll keep a close watch. Thanks again.
Tom
 
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