springer fork

[singlespeeder]

Tyrslider,

I too purchased the Monark fork setup off of ebay last week, and it does require much tweeking to make it right. My head tube length was perfect for this fork but a shorter head tube length will push the front springer of the fork down causing a higher front end. I also ended up spreading the fork legs to get the front hub to fit. Yesterday, I purchased an old 1950 Firestone (Monark) lady's bike that came with the factory Monark fork. I found the reason for the front fork to hub issue on the aftermarket fork is that they added two washers per pivot which takes away about 1/2 inch of width. The factory fork uses no washers and had no signs of wear.

I also found a used wheelset that has the sturmey archer drum brakes, how did you mount the drum brake arm to the fork?

Thanks,
Mike

The monark forks are nice but mine took several hours to get right. There is no lower crown race, the steering tube is too long for my frame and not threaded far enough to cut it down, they were not straight i.e. needed tuning and pivots needed reconfiguration. All and all not a bolt on replacement.

The Sturmey-Archer hub is really nice and will mount right up to the girder. A bit more finiky w/ the springer though. The Sturmey-Archer hubs are my favorite front brake because they are very linear, they stop you fast w/o ever locking up. I stock those hubs and can hand build you a wheel w/ 11 gauge spokes and match your rim or use your existing front rim and save you some duckets.

 

[longboard]

Do you know the websight for that company pryrimid? I can't fine it , I'm looking for a black springer front end....

 

[city of angels]

try chubbyscruisers.comthats where i got mine

 

[tyrslider]

I saw a Schwinn "repro" girder fork at a local bike shop that was made really well it had zerks on the pivot shaft so that you could lube it w/ a grease gun. Also the pivot shaft was supported by bushings rather than steel on steel. They are expensive at around $150 but I would recommend against buying the cheapest girders out there. they're not very confidence inspiring. Also a local bike shop traded me a set for some machine work, I think he got'em from his Raleigh dealer, they're pretty HD guage steel and all 4 legs are welded together instead of doubled over the axle. IMHO

 

[chopperjoe]

hello and happy holidays, i have a black springer under the tree, cant wait to dissapear into the shed on the 25th, my wife bought it from Piston Bikes. com, she doesnt know that i know ha ha ha h ah ha h ah $39 from Piston Bikes They also carry monarch style and tripple tree style. Chopper Joe

 

[chopperjoe]

Tracfodder is correct about these being cheap, I check mine before every ride and would not want anyone hurt because I said these were quality forks, I would not want to hit a large pot hole with them. But I like the ride and I take the risk. I welded the mounting bracket to the fork-tacked it in place while everything was aligned. Gator Disk brake=$19.00

Looked into the Gator brake, thnx for info. its now $22+ $6 shipping not to bad, going to look into the washer fab on a newer schwinn hub before i comit. Have a good holiday. Chopper Joe

 

[RedB66]

They make an adapter to put a disc on forks that don't have the bracket mounts.

Brakes

 

[chopperjoe]

well got my springer for x mas, and first word of advise, do not cut the stem untill you have test fitted it into your frame. i made the mistake of taking my old forks and lined it up with the new springer, cut to same size,only to find out i needed an extra 1 3/8 inch, did get it fixed, but added additional 2 hrs to the job. I have a 5 3/4 head tube and had to use 1 inch I/D tube to fab a spacer, between top of head tube and springer support arm. Also found that the long horrizontal bolt had only 1/4 inch of thread going into the nut, replaced with a 5 inch stainless bolt from Ace hardware, $1

 

[chopperjoe]

Couple pics, also elimininated front derauler and added a sturmy archer shifter, next to find a single speed front sprocket.

 

[K.i.p]

Bought mine from bike parts USA , direct fit to this 70's frame. I did some work and pressed some bushings into the pivot point and added a couple washers to help with wear between the two pivot points and the forks, greased the assembly. It was probably workable out of the box but I wanted a tighter assembly with less wear and fatigue.

 

[chopperjoe]

Bought mine from bike parts USA , direct fit to this 70's frame. I did some work and pressed some bushings into the pivot point and added a couple washers to help with wear between the two pivot points and the forks, greased the assembly. It was probably workable out of the box but I wanted a tighter assembly with less wear and fatigue.

nice work kip, was thinking about the bushing setup also, weather is so crappy here, 6 degrees for a high today and no relief in site, might as well tear into it again. Hope its warmer were your at, cabin fever is setting in fast this year. chopper joe

 

[K.i.p]

Thanks Chopper,
Winter is in full swing here as well. It has been snowing for three days now. This is my first build and am just taking the whole winter season to go through things system by system for a nice secure feeling ride this spring.

If you have a little time it's worth taking the forks apart and having a look. I was kind of shocked at the fit and finish. The pivot tube (for lack of proper identafication) is made from welded tube with plenty of weld flash through the I.D..

I ream drilled the flash out, and pressed some brass into the tube (bronze would be nicer). With the brass pressed in I redrilled it on center and packed it with grease. Although brass is on the soft side I am not concerned as this pivot is not under constant single direction rotational wear. The correct fit to the bolt is so much better that the load and wear is destributed over much more surface area.

The addition of the washers is self explanatory. You'll see when you have a look see. Good luck!

 

[jbcruisin]

Here's where I buy most of my bike parts. When you call them, they're very helpful. It's nice these days to actually be able to talk to someone when I need info or parts. They're old time bicycle & motored bike guys and very knowledgeable.
Jay

Memory Lane Classics

 

[tyrslider]

Nice lookin' build K.i.p., love that frame! All Pro hmm trying to remember who made those well i remember'em from back in the day. Is it made in Japan?

 

[K.i.p]

Thanks for the kind words tyrslider. "All Pro" is a K-Mart bike! The sticker on the frame states made in USA. I couldn't believe it. Also while I was cleaning and re lubricating the crank I discovered the bearings where American! Can't help but think we have really dropped the ball as a super power. I could go on for hours on that subject.

I think the sticker also states '71, it's at the shop right now so I can't be certain but I know it is from the 70's. It's not the best frame ever built but the quality is alright and in very good shape. I'm not shooting for speed records and living in NY, my rides will be short and intermittent so I will be able to stay on top of any short comings.

Lots of work still ahead but a little every day is begining to add up.

 

[Flight Risk]

I read thru this whole thread cuz I'm interested in a front fork of some sort.
It's interesting that you can buy a compleat mountain bike for about $100, but if you want some rock shock type fron't forks they start about $150.
I'm actually looking for a new frame. I want a 24" cruiser with a 26" springer and 20" front wheel.

Rod S

 

[jbcruisin]

I paid $49. including shipping from the link I posted earlier. It's popular fork many use & I've never known anyone to have trouble with them.
Jay