Reclaimed from the junkyard!

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Welding, Fabrication and Paintin' started by Going2Hell, Jul 31, 2014.

  1. Going2Hell

    Going2Hell Member

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    I am fed up with the kit supplied peanut tank, looks cheap and store-bought! (I think I actually just read that somewhere recently)

    I took a trip down to the local motorcycle salvage. After speaking with the owner and finding the smaller fuel tanks, I chose this one

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    It belonged to a Yamaha JT-1 from the 1970's...

    I noticed the light surface rust inside before purchasing and was not bothered by it a bit. OOPS!

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    Of course, after wire brushing the whole tank... I find about 50 total holes, after cleanup it looked more like a strainer. I didn't expect this but, I figure I can deal with this since they're not bad and I think of myself as a resourceful person...

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    So this is what I ended up with, rolls of copper set into the holes as a filler to help the solder fill the holes.

    I found that meticulous cleaning and preparation of the area to be worked helps a lot. Flux is the answer though, heat the surface with a torch and apply some flux. Heat the surface again and repeat, when the flux starts evaporating from the metal... apply the solder to the copper filler in the hole and melt some solder to it. You should see this hole and the copper start to suck the solder into the tank. When you see this, add more solder to the edges and make sure you have a solid connection between all of the metals. Grind down with a rasp/file and sand with a foam block or paper. Viola... DONE!
     
  2. Going2Hell

    Going2Hell Member

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    So, after getting a used petcock and tank lid I tested the tank and found no leaks in my new primer finish. I have only spent $20 bucks in total, this is the reason I did not do any Bondo or dent popping... besides, it'll probably rust out from under me in a year or two anyway.

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    I'm going to do a Rust-oleum hammered black metal finish. I'll post pics soon!
     
  3. curtisfox

    curtisfox Well-Known Member

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    Rolls of copper?

    Looks awesome,that will be a nice tank...........................Curt
     
  4. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Good restoration work. It's what the old guys used to do before chemical tank sealer came along. I hope it lasts you years. It should.

    Just curious. Did you find that tank as Steele's? They're just off South Santa Fe in Englewood. I've bought several tanks from them. They usually don't keep real rusty ones and all their tanks are in pretty good shape. They have hundreds to choose from in their attic warehouse. They're a little pricy but $30. would get you a nice tank. A Yamaha MX 80 is a good choice. Last time I was there they had four of them.

    I wish I'd known you were looking for one. I have a Baja tank looking for a home. No rust, no leaks.

    Tom
     
  5. wheelbender6

    wheelbender6 Active Member

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    Lookin good. I like the flare at the front of the vintage Yamaha tanks.
     
  6. greaser_monkey_87

    greaser_monkey_87 New Member

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    Tom, you got pics of that Baja tank? I may be interested. Pm me and let me know what you want for it.
     
  7. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    GM,
    I PMed you re: that tank.

    Tom
     
  8. greaser_monkey_87

    greaser_monkey_87 New Member

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    Thanks Tom, sounds good. Someone else will probably buy it before I have the scratch, but that's ok. I do have a tank, just looking for a nicer one, but I'm sure I'll come across something eventually. Thanks anyway.
     
  9. turnofftheradio

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    That was in rough shape, so many holes!
    Looks great, any pics mocked up on the bike? How does the rear get held down?
     
  10. Going2Hell

    Going2Hell Member

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    Yeah, rolled thin sheet copper like a cinnamon roll... I don't mind a bunch of sharp spikes inside my tank!

    Thanks for the compliment, I used to see cars restored with Lead a long time ago...

    I actually got the tank at Ty's Motorcycle Salvage up here in Longmont. Truly didnt know I was looking for a tank either but, I was browsing!

    As far as more tanks, I'll keep you in mind on my next build. This Baja tank however can go to Greaser if he wants it!

    Thanks... I'm going to mock it later next week, I believe I'm going to tap a hole in the backbone of the frame. Use a screw and small flange to hold the rear seam of the tank. The front is going to be a long bolt from Left to Right through the mounts with a frame clasp on the downtube.
     
  11. Going2Hell

    Going2Hell Member

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    Alright, paint is cured and able to sit on a surface... I really should've repaired the dents, looking at it now!

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  12. Henshooter

    Henshooter New Member

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    Dents are good they add character to the tank ,sweet resto job mate ,if only I had a motorcycle scrap yard close I'd do the same ,nearest yard is some 40 miles away from my loc

    Regards Hen
     
  13. Going2Hell

    Going2Hell Member

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    Alright, I fitted the tank... I'll tell this one in pictures!

    At first this is what my bike looked like before!
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    I removed Mr. Peanut, after some fiddling I finally got it in position!
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    I figure with some fine adjustment, it should be easy to make a bracket for this...
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    I also think a screw in the top-tube and a tab over the edge of the tank should be solid and not compromise the frame at all...
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    Until you get to the petcock location... Couldn't be worse, I need to slide the tank back by 1" to get the front mount to work correctly! Spark plug is smack-dab in the middle of where my petcock would be. I can't move the motor around in this frame AT ALL, so that's out! The tank fits farther back on the frame but at that point, it might as well be a seat!
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    For now... I'm back to Mr. Peanut, I have to ride to work tomorrow!
     
  14. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    Unless you're intent on using that petcock, you can replace it with a 90 or a 45 degree fitting and go with an in-line valve instead. Do you really need a 'reserve' position?

    As for your idea for the rear mount, instead of just a screw into the top tube you could install a Riv-Nut. They should be available at most industrial tool suppliers. I typically use only a 10-32 Riv-Nut on the rear mounts for my tanks. If the front mount is strong the rear one just keeps the tank from bouncing.

    Tom
     
  15. Going2Hell

    Going2Hell Member

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    Good suggestion on the Riv-Nut... I had never heard of one and since I have no welder; just became one of my favorite tricks!
     
  16. turnofftheradio

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    Looks great!
    X2 rivnut. I've used them to hold roof racks on cars/vans, and handles on Aluminum frame windows. They are great.
     

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