Rear wheel bearings

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by Kevlarr, Sep 6, 2009.

  1. Kevlarr

    Kevlarr New Member

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    How are you guys keeping yours from burning up?

    Brake side bearing went out at roughly 25 miles. Chalked it up to not being greased properly at the factory. Replaced with a new bearing and greased everything in the rear hub.

    Today was trying to hit the 200 mile mark by pulling a 40 mile ride and the same bearing started to go at the 196 mile mark, was over 12 miles from home so I just kept going hoping the thing wouldn't lock up on me. Ran out of gas @ 209 miles (now I know I can go 49 miles on a tank of gas) so I pedaled/pushed the last 3 miles and the last 1/4 mile the rear wheel would barely turn. I probably toasted the hub this time.

    Luckily I have another coaster brake hub, unluckily it's in a 20" wheel. :(
     
  2. Kevlarr

    Kevlarr New Member

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    Well after tearing the wheel apart to inspect the carnage I noticed something in the bearing cone that looks to be a casting flaw.

    Hub is a write off though :(

    Odd thing is other then the balls falling out of the cage when I pulled everything apart the bearing wasn't all that bad compared to the 1st failure (I expected more after sounding like a blender full of nuts and bolts for 10 miles) 1st time the bearing failed the cage was all sorts of mangled.
     

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  3. GearNut

    GearNut Active Member

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    The damage I see is called spalling. It happens from lack of lubrication, or the wrong lube for the job. It probibly started during the first failure and got worse from then on.
     
  4. Norco John

    Norco John New Member

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    That bearing cone is indeed spalled. The crack is probably related to the problem, not the cause of it. Lack of lubrication and the bearings being too tight usually causes that.
     
  5. Kevlarr

    Kevlarr New Member

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    Well after a trip to the LBS today I now have a nice new rim with 12 gauge spokes for the tune of $43 out the door. Now I just have to dig through my pile of front rims to find a chrome one to match it.
     
  6. scooterhoot

    scooterhoot New Member

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    .flg.:-||Like we say in ze alt country, your old hub ist "DEAD SIR!". Nuff said.
    SC
     
  7. OCCstingray

    OCCstingray New Member

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    My rear wheel bearing just failed last week, and the hub was destroyed because of it. Unfortunately, my local bike shop does not have the parts, and cannot get the parts to fix it because it is a schwinn stingray rear wheel, which is about 4.5 inches wide. I am now having to look on craigslist, and ebay to find a new rear wheel to replace it.
     
  8. bandito

    bandito New Member

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    This is just my opinion but too much pressure from the cone nuts can cause this also, hand tightened and no side to side play is good enough on the cone nuts.
     
  9. HoughMade

    HoughMade New Member

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    If you are not repacking your wheel bearings with hi temp automotive wheel bearing grease before using your MB much, you are asking for trouble....especially with a coaster brake hub. Also, if you are depending on the coaster brake to do heavy duty braking, the heat being generated will affect even good hi temp grease. I have a coaster hub, but I use caliper brakes, front and rear.
     
  10. OCCstingray

    OCCstingray New Member

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    I repacked my hub with automotive high temp grease, but like bandito said, I probably tightened the cone nuts too much
     
  11. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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    or not enough. too loose and the wobble will destroy a bearing just as fast, if not faster than it being to tight.
     

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