Motor is brand new never been started yet. I was hooking up my clutch cable and adjusted my clutch but noticed the lever was so hard to pull it litterally snapped my clutch cable. But before it broke it was damn near impossible to pull the lever. Could it be because its new and everything is stiff? Is this normal for a clutch on a new motor? I checked and everything came pre greased. What can I do to reduce how stiff it is? Any advice will be helpful.
Put new Sanger motor on my cruiser but have a question about my clutch
- Thread starter Rusty_Nail
- Start date
The clutch plate is probably stuck from sitting in a warehouse, place a block of wood against the plate and tap it, that should free it up. With the clutch cover off you should be able to work the lever on the engine and see the clutch plate move. If that doesn't work remove the chain side cover and use the block of wood on the bucking bar.
Don't use the springs on the engine end of the cable, that makes the clutch harder to pull, the clutch has a huge spring inside the case that has plenty of tension.
To Venice: I’m not totally sure about the cable. I know it’s been on the bike for almost two years and never been changed. I ordered two new ones last night so I’ll have a backup on hand just in case.
FYI, you can pick up a cable kit at the big box stores here for bicycles, I’ve replaced several cables over the years with them. I’ve pulled the cable out of the new one and greased it first then slid it in the original housing, worked great. You would be well served to grease the new cable before you install it.
Graphite powder I use on mine. Cold wet weather can cause cables inside covering resist. A cloth with a little pile of powder in it, I put the cable into and squeeze the cloth closed. Pulling the length of the cable through coats it nicely with graphite powder.
Normally see the stuff sold as LockEase. If you ride where it freezes the stuff would probably be better. It is dry so unless moisture gets inside the cover to the cable it should move freely. The radius bends on cable to move freely should also be taken into consideration.
There used to be a product called “dry slide” which was a graphite/silicone spray, I haven’t seen it in years, probably worked to good or was dangerous to people in California.
The silicone spray in a bottle I have for stuff, but not any good for locks in the wet freezing weather. But, also door on the cab to my pickup truck had condensation alone on the weather seal strip have me not exactly locked out. The lock and latch worked fine. Maybe silicone paste, not sure I could have put the graphite on the weather strip. I ended up getting an extension cord with a hair dryer to make a doctors appointment and not walk a couple miles. It also got some water spigots that were not insulated enough above ground by using the hair dryers. Not in that environment anymore, but could look to see about dry slide. -20* F to 750* F
https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Aid-Dri-Slide-4oz-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B001F2Y25G?th=1 4oz for 19.95
Planet Cyclery in Co. sells on Amazon with Prop 65 warning for Ca, but will ship it.
It says goes on wet but dries... also saw it has graphite in it as well as Molybdenum Disulfide
Also noticed
Finish Line Dry Bike Lubricant with Teflon
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricants/dry-lube Did not see anything about temperature though
I've been in around 20 above F, but not colder as much as I can recall.
https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Aid-Dri-Slide-4oz-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B001F2Y25G?th=1 4oz for 19.95
Planet Cyclery in Co. sells on Amazon with Prop 65 warning for Ca, but will ship it.
It says goes on wet but dries... also saw it has graphite in it as well as Molybdenum Disulfide
Also noticed
Finish Line Dry Bike Lubricant with Teflon
http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricants/dry-lube Did not see anything about temperature though
I've been in around 20 above F, but not colder as much as I can recall.
Ok guys. So I've got everything hooked up ready to fire it up except for the clutch. But when I was trying to attach the same stock exhaust I'd already been using it seems like the exhaust would have to be bent but not down near the pedals. Otherwise, I can't seem to get one of the exhaust bolts in as easy due to slight interference with the down tube on a cruiser frame. I'll try to get a pic up tomorrow after work. All i know about the new motor is brand is Sanger and it supposedly a 100cc and has a 49mm piston. But what could I try to resolve this slight clearance issue?
I’ve done this several times, drill both flange holes one size larger, add a small flat washer and thread locker.
The engine allows easy attachment to the exhaust manifold if the engine is not on the bike I expect. If at all possible, if not too ungainly, could bolting the engine with exhaust manifold as an assembly be possible to try?
I would think its possible. In a pinch I have a torch I could use to try to heat and bend the tube a bit but rather not have to resort to that. Was also debating about maybe taking my hammer and just putting a light dent in it to clear the down tube. Would that be recommended?
Not sure about hammer, but the picture you might post to get better idea. Allen Wrench for sockethead type bolt can some time allow access to getting tool to tighten. If it really blocked I have tried to make my own tools to get around that, but this maybe be something that others know better.
