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Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by GearNut, Dec 3, 2011.
Thank you very much for the offer, scotto-.
No prob, just gimme a call
u have the equipment to strip the paint off of a frame?
id love to do a 4 stroke build
Yup, sure do!
Leaves a nice bare metal finish....much nicer than paint stripper....
how mch do you charge?
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No worries....I was just offering this to my bud Dan (GearNut) for free.....I hate sand/bead/media blasting. You couldn't pay me enough to do another tandem frame lol. Sorry \./.
No prob man, jus' a reminder & yea - I agree scotto, and/bead/media blasting falls under "necessary evil" in my book, I'll do it for the love of a project... but geez, not for the money lol
This morning scotto- was awesome and sand blasted my engine mount parts all nice and clean.
Thank you again scotto-, I owe you one!
This afternoon I painted them white with Dupli-Color engine enamel.
I followed the instructions on the cans exactly to the "t".
The primer came out beautiful but the white is a whole 'nother story.
It sprayed out of the can like it was textured pop corn ceiling spray!
All the parts including the wide pedal shaft are white now but the engine mount plate looks like ****. Next weekend I get to wet sand it smooth hopefully without cutting through the color coat. If that happens I am going to buy another can of the stuff from another store and re spray it again. Perhaps it was a bad can? :/
I feel like it was one step forward and two steps back....
Had same problem with dupli-color paint [had defective can]. I normally use the hi temp motor spray as it resists oil and gas better.
The Dupli-Color I used is high temp with ceramic (up to 500f).
Yes, it is fun, even when things go awry. (I gotta keep telling myself that )
I am taking my time on this build, no choice really. I only have 1 day guaranteed a week to work on it. If I get lucky, 1 1/2 days.
Same exact paint I been using for many years. I use it often on Whizzer cylinders and bake it on @ 350 degrees for about 3 hours [don't try that on plastic, LOL].
Looking forward to seeing pictures of your bike finished.
Soooo.... If I bake it I won't have to wait 7 days for it to cure, eh?
I refuse to use the kitchen oven as we do use it for food (toxic residues) and it would stink up the house too, but I also have a kiln for pottery. If it goes down to that low of a temperature I will try it!
Sure would spice up the flavor of many foods, LOL.
No prob Dan, sorry to hear ya got a bung can of paint. I've had the same problem with the odd can of rattle spray, try using the spray tip off of the primer can if it's compatable, if it's not, return it or toss it and get a new can as it can't be fixed.
Can't wait to see everything painted and your build coming to compleation as we have some riding to catch up on. Slow and steady, it will be done before ya know it.
Yesterday I wet sanded the mount plate nice and smooth.
I Bought another can of paint from a different auto parts store.
It had the exact same problem.......
Not a good fine spray but rather a random splatter in the general direction that you want it to go. I gave up....
At least it was a finer splatter on the mount plate rather than big globs like the first can.
It is white and has a sandy looking texture to it.
After the 7 days recommended cure time I will mount the mount onto the frame.
On a better note I got the rear sprocket back from the machinist. It fits the Staton left side freewheel absolutely perfectly. Now to weld up a few of the original 9 holes in the sprocket and drill it for the 5 hole freewheel.
2 weeks ago I paid a good ol' boy (retired master tool and die maker) $20 to machine the hole in the center of the EZM sprocket to fit the Staton freewheel.
Other local machine shops wanted anywhere from $50 to $80 to do it, It's a $30 sprocket for cry'n out loud! :O
I got back into town Thursday after a 4 day vacation.
Friday I welded and drilled the sprocket bolt pattern to fit the Staton freewheel, it went from 9 hole to 5 hole mounting.
Saturday I painted the sprocket center to protect the welded areas from rust and cannibalized an old metal spoke protector from a long dead rear wheel to mount in between the Staton freewheel and hub. For the price of that wheel, I'll be damned if I am going to risk the chain eating up the spokes if it ever derails.
Today I sanded the bad rust off of the spoke protector and put it in a bath of "salad dressing" to clean all the rust off of it. Tomorrow or the next day I will paint it.
I also installed the 3 piece wide crank kit that I bought from another vendor.
I sorely wish I had heeded scotto-'s suggestion of using a 206mm bottom bracket cartridge instead of the slightly cheaper 3 piece, seperate cup and bearing kit.
Sometimes I can be soooo pig headed...
In my opinion it is very hokey and even though I cleaned up the ball bearing surfaces with sand paper (finishing up with 1000 grit) it rolls about as smooth as a skate board on a gravel road.
An upgrade is due in the future for sure!
No pictures for now, sorry.
Today I installed the mount plate in the frame and started working on the rear wheel engine sprocket. I have the sprocket's dished side facing inwards and the sprocket mounted inboard of the freewheel and I still have about 1" of clearance between the tire and the chain line. I hope it won't drag the chain against the chain stay.
You've got to get some "along the way" pictures..(of your progress)
Where did you buy your 4stroke kit?
I have been saving and want to buy a complete 4 stroke kit, with the EZM clutch already installed (straight out of the box).
Anybody have some suggestions?
And my other question is: in a year or so, if I try to build a harbor freight 4 stroke motor, can the EZM trany fit on that?
I like what I'm reading about your build can't wait to see the pictures.