Weight of clutch material, if it is lighter it engages at a higher RPM, thus allowing for a higher idle rpm before engagement. If it is heavier, the force load that pulls the springs out is higher. I learned this from the pocketbikeplanet forum.
What idle rpm are you getting? Also when idling let me know the highest and the lowest RPM you get too so that I can get an idea of the range you get.
If you have another cag engine mounted to another bike, let me know the idle rpm and range from max to minimum you get for the other cag engine too.
I want to see the difference you get. 200-300 difference in idle rpm may not be a lot, but to me it is, but convince me it is no big deal and that number is small and that difference in idle rpm is normal.
What's the max rpm you get? With your wheel off the ground, how long did you have to hold in full throttle before getting the max rpm? (I usually only hold it for like 3-5 seconds and get about 10.5k. Maybe if I hold it longer I might get a higher value I just don't want to ruin the engine while it's still on break-in period which may also be the reason why it's not at it's max performance yet and can rev higher after break-in, but correct me if I am wrong.)
If it's setup for 4-strokes from the factory, then you would divide the value by 2.
Why?
Because for 4 strokes every time the spark plug sparks it takes 1 revolution without a spark and 1 with a spark. Since the rpm meter cannot calculate the revolution without a spark, it multiplies the revolution of the one with the spark by 2 to make up for the revolution that did not spark. So a 2:1 ratio where the rpm meter would read 2 rpm values for 1 spark.
In a 2 stroke, you are not multiplying any value because 1 rpm is 1 spark, and since the rpm meter is multiplied by 2 with stock settings, you need to divide the value by 2. That way you are at a 1:1 ratio where 1rpm is 1 spark, 2rpms is 2 sparks, etc.
But maybe the stock settings are already set up for 2 strokes?
