While on holiday in London some years ago (decades?) I had to walk up two flight of steps on the bus to find a seat. Rick C.
Old Guys Simplex moto-peddle bike
- Thread starter indian22
- Start date
Pete, the Aero Cycle is a beauty. I can understand how removing ones self from the car with any level of decorum as one grows older may be unobtainable. I do feel sorry for the gentleman who wanted the car so badly that he convinced himself that getting in and out was possible. That had to be one of the more humiliating times in his life as well as disappointing.
Steve.
Steve.
I got a start good on the disc brake adapter for the rear wheel. A rotary table made short work of hole placement for the 6 bolt brake rotor pattern and the 3 bolt hub adapter pattern which secures the rotor plate to the hub. I also cut the center section out, but will need to trim the complete affair to final size and shape, though it would function as is.
The next step is adjusting the swing arm dimensions to assure clearances with all moving parts and adding horizontal drops from 3/16" plate which will add a couple of inches to the swing arm length. That small amount of increase will also aid in chain clearance with the stays. The very small diameter of the 27 tooth sprocket is also helpful. On the brake side the rotor should easily clear the stays as well, but I'll verify. If necessary I'll widen the stays before going any further, no big deal.
Once the parts and dimensions are finalized I'll decide on gussets for the swing arm frame. The pivot bushing is a done deal, other than assembly. The Keystone mount will be designed to accept and secure the swing arm pivot as is.
I'm not concerned that the forks need additional width to clear the cycle wheels, tires and brake rotor. It's an easy fix & one I'll get around to. Lots of work to do when it comes to the Keystone mount, even without considering the sidecar mount provisions.
I actually have solutions in mind to address the design considerations faced, but may come up with better, later? Rick C.
The next step is adjusting the swing arm dimensions to assure clearances with all moving parts and adding horizontal drops from 3/16" plate which will add a couple of inches to the swing arm length. That small amount of increase will also aid in chain clearance with the stays. The very small diameter of the 27 tooth sprocket is also helpful. On the brake side the rotor should easily clear the stays as well, but I'll verify. If necessary I'll widen the stays before going any further, no big deal.
Once the parts and dimensions are finalized I'll decide on gussets for the swing arm frame. The pivot bushing is a done deal, other than assembly. The Keystone mount will be designed to accept and secure the swing arm pivot as is.
I'm not concerned that the forks need additional width to clear the cycle wheels, tires and brake rotor. It's an easy fix & one I'll get around to. Lots of work to do when it comes to the Keystone mount, even without considering the sidecar mount provisions.
I actually have solutions in mind to address the design considerations faced, but may come up with better, later? Rick C.
There's nothing like having the right tool for the job and knowing how to use it. Looking forward to progress pics Rick.
Even though I'm in a retro phase Harold, trying not to depend on the machine shop, but building primarily with hand tools, properly locating & perfectly centering 9 holes is just too time consuming at home. Mount the proper dividing plate on the rotary table and drill 6 holes, change the plate settings and drill 3 more and your done...10 minutes tops & it's dead on every time.
I'm actually posting on the V- twin info to my new thread along with all the new photos and updates, but I made a mistake & posted that last one one to this thread. I'll use this one for misc. & Simplex/Peashooter updates as they occur. Thanks to all who are following. Rick C.
I'm actually posting on the V- twin info to my new thread along with all the new photos and updates, but I made a mistake & posted that last one one to this thread. I'll use this one for misc. & Simplex/Peashooter updates as they occur. Thanks to all who are following. Rick C.
I've had some great weather to glaze windows and paint house trim etc & prepare for Winter the last two weeks, but my thoughts were on the V-twin, especially the swing arm design. I've decided to re purpose a fat bike bottom bracket and rear triangle for the basis of the active arm. It's an old steel frame and very robust though I will gusset for additional strength. This will give me plenty of clearance for wheel components and chain line clearance. Also the seat and chain stays are not tapered front to rear, but are parallel each to the other. Since I like the design & it serves the purpose well; I decided to use it. Of course larger size tires will also fit this swing arm, but I'll stick with 3" or under on the back.
You guys that follow my builds know I often call for "mulligans" along the way, 'cause I'm not keeping score just refining as I go. It's not the quickest or the least expensive way to build, but it's my way, just having fun! Eccentric, Rick C.
You guys that follow my builds know I often call for "mulligans" along the way, 'cause I'm not keeping score just refining as I go. It's not the quickest or the least expensive way to build, but it's my way, just having fun! Eccentric, Rick C.
Next project on my pre Spring to do list is the Simplex Copper Gator & the list is pretty extensive & ranging from building a leaf spring/ girder fork to adding a rear disc brake, with a bunch of stuff in the middle. Some of the mods are to prepare for the addition of a sidecar & others just 'cause I want to.
I've intended on making a folding pedal that would allow easier access to the kick start lever. The way it is now the right pedal & lever has to be positioned perfectly vertical to clear the kick lever...not a good thing in case of a kick back...oooch! The bike also has to be on the stand when starting because straddling the bike & kicking the lever can't be done...oow!
Problem solved by ebay search "folding bicycle pedal" 9/16" & perfectly solved my starting inconvenience for $15. this and a couple of minutes on the change out. The pedal has a spring lock trigger which holds the pedal securely when in use, but is easily unlatched to fold up. Since I have the same problem with the Harley Peashooter I ordered another. An irritating thing I've put up with for a couple of years now, solved so easily....don't ask. Rick C
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I've intended on making a folding pedal that would allow easier access to the kick start lever. The way it is now the right pedal & lever has to be positioned perfectly vertical to clear the kick lever...not a good thing in case of a kick back...oooch! The bike also has to be on the stand when starting because straddling the bike & kicking the lever can't be done...oow!
Problem solved by ebay search "folding bicycle pedal" 9/16" & perfectly solved my starting inconvenience for $15. this and a couple of minutes on the change out. The pedal has a spring lock trigger which holds the pedal securely when in use, but is easily unlatched to fold up. Since I have the same problem with the Harley Peashooter I ordered another. An irritating thing I've put up with for a couple of years now, solved so easily....don't ask. Rick C
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An elegant solution to the problem, Rick. Didn't know such a thing existed.
SB
Glad to hear from you & hope you're recovering well.
I started making a folding pedal from a motorcycle tube clamp for a folding foot pedal & as I got the parts together I remembered seeing a folding bicycle pedal I'd seen.....decades ago. I'd completely blocked it from memory. I ran a quick search on E bay & there they were...good selection as well. I'm not certain of the benefits on a bicycle other than flat hauling/storage and not catching ones shin bone on it in a dark garage. Perhaps others have more creative input, but it certainly solves my functional design problem, which was due to my stubborn insistence on adding pedal function to a Simplex (which never included a pedal function or a 5 speed gear box) in the first place. Still it's been a fun ride & quite dependable as well.
I'd intended taking a few photos of the pedals on the bike but it's been really windy the last couple of days 50 mph gusts so I'll hold off on photos. USPS, UPS & FedEx all have scheduled deliveries this p.m. & should include all the missing parts for my girder/leaf spring project for the Simplex. It's planned to be a traditional trailing link design using Simplex cast rocker/toggle (shown below) to hold the bits & pieces in place. Rick C.
I started making a folding pedal from a motorcycle tube clamp for a folding foot pedal & as I got the parts together I remembered seeing a folding bicycle pedal I'd seen.....decades ago. I'd completely blocked it from memory. I ran a quick search on E bay & there they were...good selection as well. I'm not certain of the benefits on a bicycle other than flat hauling/storage and not catching ones shin bone on it in a dark garage. Perhaps others have more creative input, but it certainly solves my functional design problem, which was due to my stubborn insistence on adding pedal function to a Simplex (which never included a pedal function or a 5 speed gear box) in the first place. Still it's been a fun ride & quite dependable as well.
I'd intended taking a few photos of the pedals on the bike but it's been really windy the last couple of days 50 mph gusts so I'll hold off on photos. USPS, UPS & FedEx all have scheduled deliveries this p.m. & should include all the missing parts for my girder/leaf spring project for the Simplex. It's planned to be a traditional trailing link design using Simplex cast rocker/toggle (shown below) to hold the bits & pieces in place. Rick C.
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For you guys that are into the why?? I'll add my thoughts to part of the leaf fork geometry & setup. Single bikes (those without sidecars) & running leaf spring forks in the early days of moto cycles were typically of the trailing link design & is how I plan my fork to be setup. There has been & continues to be debate as to the relative merits of trailing link and leading link design & both camps have valid points. It seems that when you add a sidecar the thinking favors the leading link, Ural motorcycles are designed to primarily run a sidecar & they use a leading link. I plan on occasionally running the car rig, but mainly use solo & don't feel the need to alter my fork design to cater to my modest sidecar requirements. Since I plan to share the car between the Simplex Copper gator and my ongoing V twin build (which will feature a leading link parallelogram fork) I'm therefore "splitting" my hand in the matter & will deal with it.
The amount of positive trail will be set up primarily for solo riding as well, with sidecar use not really considered. I'm not planning on running the car rig at more than town speeds, 20 to 35 mph & turns at a crawl. Call the side car a parade rig if it need labeling.
Stuff came in late yesterday...girder fork "late exception" for delivery today, so I'm looking forward to getting a start on the fork & other changes to the Simplex today. The leaf spring has a lot of "shaping" coming in the form of taper, those square ends are ugly! Rick C.
The amount of positive trail will be set up primarily for solo riding as well, with sidecar use not really considered. I'm not planning on running the car rig at more than town speeds, 20 to 35 mph & turns at a crawl. Call the side car a parade rig if it need labeling.
Stuff came in late yesterday...girder fork "late exception" for delivery today, so I'm looking forward to getting a start on the fork & other changes to the Simplex today. The leaf spring has a lot of "shaping" coming in the form of taper, those square ends are ugly! Rick C.
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Thought I'd show a rough mock up of the leaf. All thread is just for holding stuff right now. The aduster's will be used to pre-load the pack, probably just one per side. May eliminate the short leaf. I'll be using 1/2" d.o.m. tube with solid rod liner for the spring legs. Pack is 1.75" x 13" after the cut & the arch is 3.5". I'll use a square trailer U bolt to attach the pack to the fork plate and an upside down 4" x 7/8" diameter quill will steady the spring inside the bottom of the steer tube. The steering quill will effectively give the steer tube a solid liner.
I'll also re-enforce & close in the fork leg drop out for safety as it's the only place on the fork that appears to
need beefing up. Rick C
I'll also re-enforce & close in the fork leg drop out for safety as it's the only place on the fork that appears to
Great looking fork Rick! God I love seeing these things built!
At the risk of exposing my ignorance, I have a couple questions. Are the springs in the wrong order or do you plan to clip them together? Will having the rockers on the outside cause axle/fork interference or will the be beyond the travel limit?
At the risk of exposing my ignorance, I have a couple questions. Are the springs in the wrong order or do you plan to clip them together? Will having the rockers on the outside cause axle/fork interference or will the be beyond the travel limit?
Really good question Wret. By using the trailing link design, as you know, the spring deflects as the wheel rises. In the previous photo shown with the longest leaf of the pack on the bottom the top three short leaves aren't even utilized in the moment of travel, unless they are banded together. I had removed the band prior to taking the previous photos in order to dismantle the leaves for individual tapering. Photo attached shows the shortened and tapered pack minus the short top leaf which I've decided not to use. I won't band the leaf pack until after I clean up my rough shaping of the tapers, paint & lubricate, prior to finish assembly. Very astute to pick up on that Wret. If I used a leading link design I wouldn't need to band the spring pack because the ascending wheel would compress all of the leaves on it's rise.
As to the rocker links they would indeed come into contact with the fork legs if the spring rods were setup up poorly & allow too much travel. Here length is important and one reason why I'm including an easy way to adjust the spring rods & also pre-load the fork. On a positivr note fork leg contact with the rocker link would also act as a wheel travel stop to prevent the tire from jamming into the bottom of the spring pack; due to complete failure of both spring leg rods.
While answering your inquiry I came up with another good reason not to band the 3 remaining leafs. I can test cruise with only the long leaf & see how it rides. Then band two and finally all three to find the proper spring rate because I'm truly just guessing at this point as to how she will ride solo or with the added weight of the side car. These "slipper stacks" work quite well when matched appropriately with proper weight & distribution of same taken in account. At any rate fun stuff! Rick C.
As to the rocker links they would indeed come into contact with the fork legs if the spring rods were setup up poorly & allow too much travel. Here length is important and one reason why I'm including an easy way to adjust the spring rods & also pre-load the fork. On a positivr note fork leg contact with the rocker link would also act as a wheel travel stop to prevent the tire from jamming into the bottom of the spring pack; due to complete failure of both spring leg rods.
While answering your inquiry I came up with another good reason not to band the 3 remaining leafs. I can test cruise with only the long leaf & see how it rides. Then band two and finally all three to find the proper spring rate because I'm truly just guessing at this point as to how she will ride solo or with the added weight of the side car. These "slipper stacks" work quite well when matched appropriately with proper weight & distribution of same taken in account. At any rate fun stuff! Rick C.
Wret good questions/input often generate unexpected answers to problems left unaddressed. The use of the unstrapped pack, short leaves atop, with the trailing link design could be used as rebound control if the long leaf, or the two longest links strapped, prove sufficient to handle the spring deflection chores. Rebound would be damped by the unstrapped leaf or leaves upon completion of the suspension cycle. If the whole spring pack is required to handle the deflection then the spring pack will be strapped as originally planned, if not I end up with both deflection & a bit of rebound control & either outcome works for me. Rick C.
Fun with copper project velocity stack I decided to try it on the Harley Peashooter. I really like copper work and add some to most of my builds. Sounds lovely with the filter out., really flows air. I'll check the plug after a run with filter in place tomorrow 'cause it might be running a little lean now. Rick C
