Old Guys Simplex moto-peddle bike

I'm taking some satisfaction that my dimensions used for machining the reduction drive and relocating the e motor were perfect and resulted in the motor case being located in exactly the same frame position as before. I anticipared the case itself might have to be adjusted a little, but no back to it's original location it went.

Pedal chain comes tomorrow. I've a lot of room for wheel adjustment, but as 118 links of 420 is heavy I may fab a combination spring tensioner/brake arm anchor for return chain support and control and mounting it just in front of the rear sprocket. This one would be welded to the chain stay to prevent a twist of the tensioner into the spokes. Those of you who've been around for more than 20 minutes know what I'm talking about.

I am starting to visualize a case cover and small chain guard for the drive side. Knowing now I'm set on the position of moving parts I can plan
for drive train safety and cosmetic treatments for the motor case housing.

Other items I really don't like are my key switch and my throttle and brake levers. So those will be repaced. I prefer split ring motor cycle style brake levers so I don't have to remove grips or throttle to remove a brake lever. Simple push switch on the bars for on or off. I have 3 e bikes which have key switch on the rear racks and dislike them all.

Rick C.

20220722_165341.jpg
 
Plans are for a 30 amp hour, 52v battery. Do you mean a 54T rear instead of the 72T. Our street has a long slope to it and fortunately the ride up to the main street is a short climb but the street is busy. Going down the street takes me to a secondary street that runs parallel to the main road but at the end there is a very steep hill.

I prefer the secondary street but the hill may be the deal breaker. The main street is crazy busy and they drive like it's India.

Steve.
 
Sorry Steve not my best writing.

I think the 72t fine but if you need a little more speed there are other sprockets availible. The speed calculators definitely show a higher theoretical speed and 21mph may on a flat hard road may be 14 or 15 in reality. The 52v will bump speed a little 1 or 2 mph perhaps and provide some current bump too. 1500 watts is 2 hp so that claws back some of the resistence loses as well so theoretical projections are closer to reality.

Rick C.
 
Steve Youtube has a lot of electric pedicab vids
That run on 1kw 48v or less and they often carry two passengers and the taxista. Lot of weight. Seem to do fine. They do get a workout in many parts of the world.

What works on these should do great on a tri car.

Rick C.
 
Rick, speed does enter into it a bit for me. I need to get there before I forget where I was going and there isn't much of a chance of that improving.

Legally we are held to 500W and 32kmh or 20mph here in Canada. I doubt highly given the work load the police have, they would stop me and look at the bike unless I did something foolish. They may have a moment to stop and ask me just what it is. I'll look at YouTube and see what is available for pedicab builds

Steve.
 
fasteddy said:
Rick, speed does enter into it a bit for me. I need to get there before I forget where I was going and there isn't much of a chance of that improving.

Legally we are held to 500W and 32kmh or 20mph here in Canada. I doubt highly given the work load the police have, they would stop me and look at the bike unless I did something foolish. They may have a moment to stop and ask me just what it is. I'll look at YouTube and see what is available for pedicab builds

Steve.
Click to expand...
I hear you on both speed and legality my friend.

Even though there are a lot of bogus channels on YouTube I still consider it a great resource for motor bicycling info or info in general.

Rick C
 
Saturday came and went with pedal chain lost in transit. It showed up Late Monday so I worked about an hour to get all three chains and the primary tensioner working together. Wheel run out is true and I have three chain lines running really straight and tension help not required on either the pedal side or final drive chain. I may still add a spring tensioner for supportng the 420 final chains weight. They are pretty heavy when they get this long. I don't have any worries of chains rubbing either frame or wide tires.

Still hot here but getting used to it. I need to fab a frame anchor to attach the rear drum brake lever to prevent drum rotation of the drum during braking. As welding is required on the part (no welding on frame) I'll do this in the morning when it's cool.

I have a couple of controller and throttle issues to contend with this afternoon while under the air conditioning.

Bit by bit getting it back together and I'm pleased with my changes.

Rick C.

20220725_171658.jpg
20220725_171819.jpg
 
The Sportsman Flyer frame has multiple strong points of attachment for a steel rack out back plus a large and very robust axle plate that can be drilled for extra support if required. I'm thinking 1/2" tube, since the frame is 1" and the stays are 3/4" keep it proportional. I'll be using saddlebags which dictate supports which keep the bags away from rotating parts which are hard on leather and bag contents.

With the rack and bags installed the Harley style bars will be raised. As Pete pointed out switching back to racer profile is quick and simple with bolt on rack design. Bags are so useful that I seldom select a bike to ride that doesn't have a rear rack & saddlebags. Last minute thoughts on throttle and controller setup has me second guessing for the 13th time.

Photo shows handle bars in more of a roadster attitude.

Rick C.

20220727_101401.jpg
 
Schwinn X bike rotated inside the house and Ol' Crow started road test yesterday. The reduction sprockets ran great on the new pedal bracket and the rest just came along for the ride. Vtwin case is solid and the new motor position works a charm.

I'm taking it slow and staying close to my tools during testing at first and limit distance to a few blocks from home, just in case. Keeping speed in low power setting about 22 mph to 25 mph for now. This controller has 3 power settings. With my old drive ratios speed on low setting with 48v and this motor/controller would have been about 30 mph, so with a bit of extrapolation I'd reckon around 35ish mph top speed. I was shooting for about 40mph with this 40 amp controller and the existing final drive ratios. I'd like to have a 30 mph cruise and 40 top speeds with this setup. If I'm much off I will go back to the big 110 amp controller for the torque and reduce my final drive ratio a bit 44t and drop down to 36 tooth if Pat has the split sprocket in that size.

Rear rack and saddle bags are necessary to hold and hide the big controller.

I brought the Schwinn X inside to take the Ol' Crows place under the air conditioning.

Rick C.

20220728_151543.jpg
 
Learn something new. If a brushless controller doesn't have learning wires to change motor direction, don't buy it and if that controller has a reverse jumper don't use it to change motor direction on a bike. This is for 4 or 3 wheel carts etc. and for safety reasons regulates power to 20% when in reverse. All 3 power ranges disabled in reverse. Most mid drive controllers for bicycles are set up for clockwise rotation to power the pedal chain. Clockwise is for use powering an out put on the opposite side. Controllers with either learning wires or programmable controllers should be selected.

I'm not certain how I screwed up and had to change motor directions, but using the reverse wire wasn't a good idea to correct it.

There are two ways to correct this easy and hard. The easy way doesn't always function properly and the hard way is time consuming process.

At any rate 20% power equals 22 to 23 mph so I'm thinking 100% will get me to 40mph? With this controller and that's fine the reduction gear is providing less speed and more torque than my previous drive train so I'm satisfied to this point. 20% power doesn't provide much torque on a brushless, even geared down 35% is where you start to really feel it.

I may end up with a bench full of test instruments for electronics too.

Rick C.
 
Oldbiscuit said:
That my friend is a rolling work of art !!
Click to expand...

Thanks OB means a lot to me. The Ol' Crow has been a few years in making and testing. Sorted out both strengths and weaknesses along the way. Changed drive trains, used multiple motors, controllers and batteries along the way & that's the way one off builds mostly go. I made changes today and more to come and not just cosmetic.

I have fun doing this and getting it right or at least to the point that I feel good about my work and the way a bike rides. A bike doesn't have to be perfect just good enough for me.

Rick C.
 
Bob53 said:
Rick, that is soooo sweet. Looks like it should make a lot of noise.
Click to expand...

Hi Bob hope you are fully recovered from your surgery and that you are able to ride once more.

Thank you for the complement knowing you have have high standards in bikes. It would be great if you would post a few photos of your Simplex as it's a beauty.

It does look loud, but those stubs are silent as a whisper. Electric power keeps the noise to a minimum.

Rick C.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top