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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Swap And Shop Sales' started by knightscape, Aug 7, 2014.
What about this:
*** BACK UP THE TRUCK! MY CALIPER WAS OFF! ***
I just tossed my manual linear harbor freight caliper in the trash and I'll remove and re-label my pics with the output shaft.
It actually is 5/8" (.625" or 15.9mm) where the clutch bell rides.
That changes everything.
There won't be enough material in the clutch bell pulley to fit bearing with that shaft.
Radial bearings, that's clever, but $25 a pop is steep.
It does give me another idea however...
If the shaft has to be milled down .9mm to 15mm so be it, I'll fill the keyway and turn it all down for a nice smooth surface for these cute little 15x21mm needle bearings I have at the same time since any mod to the output shaft makes it non-standard anyway and needle bearings are cool.
I just looked for a replacement bell in case I screw up and can't find one...
Hmmm, Hmmm, Hmmm...
I'll have to think about this more tomorrow, Noon-Thirty is my quit'n time on Friday's ;-}
I plan on either using it on an older engine I have that has a 15mm shaft or using cobrafreak's method to reduce it to 15mm. 1 mm off the shaft and 1mm off the clutch bell bore. It's easy to shim 15mm back up to 5/8" using soda can material.
I'm sharing the finished project of my first build, which used the 7g kit.
It is a Micargi Pantera Frame, Husky Bike wheels with 11g spokes, a Manic Mechanic rear 44t sprocket, the Ghost Racer 7g kit, springer front fork, and an old Pacer moped tank I had repainted by our local technical school.
I am very interested in seeing if anyone can lick this 'bushing to bearing' conversion for the clutch bell, since I am already experiencing the 'cymbal monkey' sounds emanating from the clutch.
I just got my bearings. Still wItimg on the 21mm drill bit and I still need 15x19mm washers.
How's that gear ratio working? I got a 36t pirate sprocket which will still be lower gearing than my ez motorbikes but I do not have big hills around me.
Nice build Vlad but I'm a bit disappointed to only see one brake on it.
Some grease on both sides of the brass bushing helps quite the monkey a bit as does not over tightening the belt.
I have some different bearings and a another kit coming so I'll try it when they get here, no time on this customer build though I did use the alt. billet and NT carb on it.
I also used a 4G base which fits perfect in this Macargi Fatal Love 29er.
No noticeable difference in performance but certainly easier to work with, and with a little piece of plastic tube and longer breather hose I hooked it up to an air cleaner intake hole.
Also note it has 3 brakes, a pair of independent C's and the coaster brake.
With little motor drag when coasting and the added weight of the 4-stroke and 7G you really don't want to find yourself going down even a little hill with just one brake.
<removed out of protest to certain "staff" practices in this forum.>
I've bought a few of these 7G kits now, (& I'm pretty happy with them), but I'm really glad to see that now they're finally offering the spindle for the wide cranks with the kit for only $10 more.
In addition to the front drum brake I still have the Shimano rear coaster, and it has never felt unsafe. I'm used to cruising downhill on a road bike at faster than I'll ever go on this bike, so I'd like to think I have a good feel for it. The gear ratio is working well for me so far. Lots of stop and go on my trip to and from work. I can see how the revs could get too high if you planned to use the same setup for lots of long straights. My clutch mod so far has been to slightly increase the length of spacer on the rear pulley and to slightly file down the bushing to take a little play out of the bell. Also, I added an additional thin washer to each clutch shoe so they engage at higher rpms, and it is now quite smooth.
Calling on the guys here who have 4 stroke experience to recommend some of the following:
Good exhaust options for the Huasheng 49cc.
Good intake options for the same.
Anyone have much experience with aftermarket upgrades for this engine? Spark plug upgrade suggestions?
Also, anyone ever tried stuff meant for the Honda GHX50 engine? I believe it is the model for the HS, right?
High performance exhaust is a DIY thing. the kit exhaust for the happy times fit fine and most folks modify them to suit. Intake options are limited but some folks like the NT carburetor conversion, like what VeniceMotorBikes offers http://venicemotorbikes.com/shop/?product_cat=various-bike-engine-parts . There are also carburetors and exhaust for sale at http://www.affordablegokarts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=MTRBK49
As for a spark plug I learned from Scotto- that the NGK CR7HIX iridium one works awesome. I use one and I agree with him.
You are correct, the HuaSheng 142f is a clone of the Honda GHX50.
I got my drill bit today from China. The only problem is they sent the wrong size, 25.5mm instead of 21mm. Oh well, hopefully they will make it right.
Man, that is frustrating, ABR.
It would be more frustrating if I wasn't so busy with school. I'm going to the local college taking classes to get a degree in information security. I'm changing career paths. I am super curious as to how this mod turns out though.
Thanks for the HIX info, I put HIX plugs in all my 2-stroke builds, nice to know there is a compatible 4-stroke one.
Thanks, guys! I'm going to try the upgraded spark plug as well as toy around with some aftermarket exhaust options. Any updates on the bearing mod? As the weather gets colder and I'm not riding every day, I'll be very excited to try it myself if some intrepid individual blazes the path.
Someone posted earlier in this thread that the pto was a tapered shaft. Where an ad has it as a 5/8 straight shaft.
I would order one of these kits, but not if it has a tapered shaft.
Could someone say for sure which one it is. Some of the pictures I saw on here, show a 5/8 straight shaft.
Would this kit fit on a (Rover GX ) Micargi Stealth, does anyone know?
Quoted from post #32 "because in this 7G Ghost Racer the only freewheel is the crappy old style tapered shaft clutch for the 142 FG-01 4-stroke with crappy brass bushing."
And then in post #56 - shows a 5/8 straight shaft and still referred to as being tapered?? soo confusing- I am hoping it is the shaft in the pictures, and not a tapered one.
Tapered in this case means the output is milled down to 5/8 but straight and keyed.
In short the HS 142 engines for 4G came with the clutch on the engine and the 4G itself carried the bearing bell, the 7G has everything slide on the shaft with no stops but the keyway and bolt at the end of the shaft.