New CDI and coil combo for racing available!

True it works. But it DOESN'T deliver optimum performance and optimum voltage to the spark plug so I say spend the whole $10.00 bill and get them at the most of your CDI. and quit being a cheapskate, besides what are you really going to do with the $2 you saved? You must really like Orange parts.
 
going by all I read it produces the same spark and voltage as your coil does there both stock coils neither is a high performance coil like a accel or msd for a car if it was up to me Id be running a accel but unless you tell me other wise I dont know if the lighting could push such a coil.
 
Huffydavidson said:
True it works. But it DOESN'T deliver optimum performance and optimum voltage to the spark plug so I say spend the whole $10.00 bill and get the most of your CDI.
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I bought a couple of these Honda CR450R Elsinore coils to test with.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Emgo-Igniti...981-1982-/310759615664?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

It's twice the size of the stock coil and in case you have forgotten the stock coil does does a pretty good job with an Iridium plug which is why they are a standard part in every 2-stroke build.

Some kits come with a perfect magneto and CDI and I know it right away, all I am building is something tuneable I can offer to my customers that range from no performance enhancements to a few basic things not the race machines but I included the ability to do so if they want and a cheap $20 option head to head compared to a stock CDI is something I want to see for myself and for $20 nothing to me.

... and quit being a cheapskate, besides what are you really going to do with the $2 you saved? You must really like Orange parts.
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Ewww, SNAP!
You caught me, I am an orange color loving cheapskate, just look at all the orange bikes with cheap parts and corner cutting work I have done, virtually every build!

But back to reality...

I don't skimp on anything and why my builds are expensive, I continue to find new ways to offer my customers more options to fit their needs or desires and if my tuenable CDI is a viable option I'll offer it.

But, since I am a cheapskate in your condescending eyes Huffy I won't disappoint you.
You can forget about me sending you a free unit to try, I doubt I would get a fair review of it from you anyway and there are plenty of guys with race class 2-strokes that might have the time to try mine and let me know their thoughts.

It will likely be weeks before I have something ready but if any of you HP racing guys have the time and willing to re-wire for my system and give it a fair assessment drop me an E as one or two of you is all I need, I will be doing the stock to just under extreme mods I am building for testing myself.
 
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Scott.D.Lang said:
that is the coil I use it seems to do a very good job
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I run that coil and cdi unit on my Roketa 150cc scooter never had any trouble with it and it was a performance upgrade over the stock coil and cdi that came on m scooter, im a forum member on a couple scooter forums and many people use those parts on their modified scooters, I can't say how well they will do on our bikes but on the scooters they hold up well and do a great job in my experience.

Map .wee.
 
16v4nrbrgr said:
Does the GY6 CDI unit need a 12v DC source?
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Yes that is the most common there were some older models that use an AC Unit but the most common is DC like the one that is being discussed here.

Im no electronics expert at all but while looking for upgrade parts for my scooter a couple years ago I came across information that said there are some ac powered lnes out there.

Map
 
Gee Zezzz KC don't go gettin the Gin thing. Your cdi is just like a stock Jaguar with that 4.7uf timing cap. Which has a VERY LOW TIMING CUVER , which exactly what I intend to get away from you why would I want to try something that has such a low timing for you would have I use wish I could turn it down even more why bother getting the bike out and starting it? The High Performance engines need advancement not retardation! If vibration is the problem you're trying to solve its not truly in the timing its in the balancing and the truing of the crankshaft. Retarding the timing to smooth out the vibration is nothing more than a band aid over a gun shot wound. It works for awhile but the inevitable is coming
Death to the bearings. Theres no short cut to balance&trueness ★★★★
 
Huffydavidson said:
Gee Zezzz KC don't go gettin the Gin thing. Your cdi is just like a stock Jaguar with that 4.7uf timing cap. Which has a VERY LOW TIMING CUVER , which exactly what I intend to get away from you why would I want to try something that has such a low timing for you would have I use wish I could turn it down even more why bother getting the bike out and starting it? The High Performance engines need advancement not retardation! If vibration is the problem you're trying to solve its not truly in the timing its in the balancing and the truing of the crankshaft. Retarding the timing to smooth out the vibration is nothing more than a band aid over a gun shot wound. It works for awhile but the inevitable is coming
Death to the bearings. Theres no short cut to balance&trueness ★★★★
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The balancing of a badly untrue crankshaft with a cdi has always made me laugh.....!

I guess by using the Jaguar type CDI it may seem like it helps because the engine rpm will be limited and it may seem like vibration has been reduced when actually what has been truly reduced is power and performance.

A badly balanced rotating assembly vibrates less when it rotates slow but as rpms increase so do the vibes.

Map
 
Here we go again, my Lightening CDI Kit is NOT a Jaguar type CDI
the schematic and layout is different the components are different the function is different there is no timing curve it is true accurate advancement .
My Lightening is in its own class and there nothing that comes close in the Chinagirl class.
Remember it has a BIG BROTHER that BOLTS a TWIN BANSHEE coil that run Freds
☆★☆★TWIN SPARK PLUG HEAD★☆★☆
"LIGHTENING DOES STRIKE TWICE"
I run twins on both my bikes!!!
dnut
 
I would be interested in seeing the actual timing curves for some of these ignitions.

I do look forward to seeing some actual dyno testing results as well.
 
Huffydavidson said:
Here we go again, my Lightening CDI Kit is NOT a Jaguar type CDI
the schematic and layout is different the components are different the function is different there is no timing curve it is true accurate advancement .
My Lightening is in its own class and there nothing that comes close in the Chinagirl class.
Remember it has a BIG BROTHER that BOLTS a TWIN BANSHEE coil that run Freds
☆★☆★TWIN SPARK PLUG HEAD★☆★☆
"LIGHTENING DOES STRIKE TWICE"
I run twins on both my bikes!!!
dnut
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HD sorry if I sounded like I was comparing your cdi to the jag, that isn't what I meant..... , several years ago when the jag came out the adverting of it suggested that it would make the badly balanced china girls run smoother and I remember some people claiming it eliminated most if not all high speed vibrations and I never believed that could be true... that is what I was referring too, not comparing you product to the jaguar unit because as you know....I know that yours is a much better cdi and it does not operate like the jag.

Hope this clears things up...

Peace, map
 
Huffy, Im going to get with you at some point and run this little gem on my winter build, cant wait to try one on!!! Have to get the bike funds up a little higher but hopefully it will only take a month or two :)

Again great job, I think the people spoke and you answered!

Dan.
 
FFV8 said:
I do look forward to seeing some actual dyno testing results as well.
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At the 2014 April 12th SMBR event at Willow Springs we will be dynoing my pal HuffyDavidson's CDI and other China girl performance stuff.

Sorry that we probably won't get to dyno anything earlier than that.
 
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After more testing the twin LIGHTENING with the Yamaha Bashee Coil my best result was capping the spark plug at you're going to love this at 0.48"
That's a LIGHTENING BOLT !!!
 
Advancing the timing will make the power band hit harder in the mid range but fall flat on top end. Advancing the timing gives the flame front in the combustion chamber, adequate time to travel across the chamber to form a great pressure rise. The rapid pressure rise contributes to a power band's "Hit". In some cases the pressure rise can be so great that it causes an audible pinging noise from the engine. As the engine rpm increases, the pressure in the cylinder becomes so great that pumping losses occur to the piston. That is why engines with too much spark advance or too high of a compression ratio, run flat at high rpm.

Retarding the timing will make the power band smoother in the mid-range and give more top end over rev. When the spark fires closer to TDC, the pressure rise in the cylinder isn't as great. The emphasis is on gaining more degrees of retard at high rpm. This causes a shift of the heat from the cylinder to the pipe. This can prevent the piston from melting at high rpm, but the biggest benefit is how the heat affects the tuning in the pipe. When the temperature rises, the velocity of the waves in the pipe increases. At high rpm this can cause a closer synchronization between the returning compression wave and the piston speed. This effectively extends the rpm peak of the pipe.
 
Those are words of Jaguars concept that does not apply here. What I build works well and it's going to the track real soon and you'll see then.
 
Huffydavidson said:
Those are words of Jaguars concept that does not apply here. What I build works well and it's going to the track real soon and you'll see then.
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That was actually a quote from a general 2-stroke tuning guide by Eric Gorr. Gordon Jennings (long considered the golden standard in 2-stroke tuning guides) had this to say:

Interestingly, the influence of mixture turbulence – which increases with engine speed-is so strong that the spark-advance optimum does not change much even over a fairly wide speed range. Indeed, from all available evidence, the ability of combustion-chamber turbulence to speed burning is so great that increases in peaking speeds frequently require a slight retarding of ignition, while advancing the spark may well give a small improvement in power at lower-than-peak engine speeds at the expense of maximum power.
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People have been at this for decades, it would make sense to think that our engines, even with such poor quality, would follow the same rules as any other 2-stroker, the flow dynamics will be the same. I like to tinker as much as the next guy but ignoring time-tested tuning methods is settings us back, not ahead of the curve.

4-stroke vs 2-stroke timing curves: http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10315
2-stroke timing of popular MX bikes: http://www.2strokeworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=12681.0
same explanation in section 1.1: http://webcache.googleusercontent.c...c+&cd=10&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=ca&client=firefox-a
and another one: http://books.google.ca/books?id=A9K...ge&q=2-stroke tuning: ignition retard&f=false

They all generally agree: retarding at high RPM's is GOOD. It allows greater top speed and safer over-revs. These engines advance so much at high RPM's that over-reving at idle can cause damage (which many members here agree it does). Retarding the ignition reduces these pressures and heat resulting in safer high-RPM ignitions that will save your bearings (as I've been saying for a while, as does jag's page). HOWEVER these same pages ALSO agree that the most power will be had with not-as-advanced-timing (rather than retarding, it's a shallow curve). This is good for our race bikes, where the engines are expendable and performance is where it counts and the engine isn't capable of over-revving itself to death anyway (unless it's geared poorly). This is why racers use the stock CDI's. They *do* produce more power, but at the cost of the engine's life span. Seriously, if you plan on touring or having your bike for a long time and you're a speed freak like myself (I'm WOT nearly 100% of the time), get a retarding ignition. Jag's ignition, or follow the plans to make one yourself, whichever you feel is better. If you like to cruise around at 4-5k RPM, then by all means get an advancing ignition (stock one's fine). I plan on running my engine at 10,000 RPM+ once my new tools get here, and I'd like to see it live through the year.
 
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after building my lightning CDI and testing and running it for months the only reason I didn't throw away my Jaguar POS just because I paid for it but when I did sell it here it went dirt cheap I just didn't want to be wasteful. I would just given it away because after running my Lightening it had Very little value to me. Mine still has timing caps&jumpers if must have a timing cuver or you can run it with full advancement your choice. This is why it is superior to the Jaguar, it'll do both or I'll custom build you one to your specs and wants!
 
Oh wow, I didn't see it had the retard option! That's actually awesome. Those who want to take their tourer to the track can easily change settings for maximum power. That's ingenious. I may actually buy one knowing that now.
 
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