Oh thank you for responding! I am at work now but on my lunch I will go home and work on it again. Can hardly wait!
New and no spark.
- Thread starter LizaLaw
- Start date
I tried the flower nut on my lunch but they aren't moving apart at all so I'll try at the cable when I get home. Rats. Thanks though!
I have too say it sure makes it hard ta help when a person can't 'see' what is happening ... can you pull your clutch handle in easily ? without 'binding' ? and when you do what happens with the clutch ? Just a thought ... you obviously had the little cover off that the clutch lever is attatched too on the drive sproket side ? did you replace the little 'shaft' that goes inside the center of that sprocket ? also a small ball bearing type thing goes in there as well that actually pushes the clutch apart when you pull the lever ? with out it or if that cover is not tight and in place nothing will move on the clutch side ...
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Hi,
I assume u only took the largest cover off. If u took off the small chain sprocket, please reassembly, as to Ronzworld's preceding post.
With the clutch hand lever RELEASED, the wire of the cable should be without slack, the "plate" should feel firm (not loose) and even (not uneven) and the rear wheel should feel locked. If u can turn it hard enough (by hard or pedalling) u should hear the engine a bit (you'll know).
The clutch hand lever may be a little hard at first. When u fully squeeze it in, the plate should become slightly loose (and stay loose if u lock the clutch hand lever with the little pin).
You said, "I noticed with the cover off that the plate, when it is moving outward, doesn't move evenly. Is this normal? ". Yes, it becomes slightly "loose"/separated when u squeeze the clutch.
If u get someone to help u squeeze the clutch hand lever (or lock it with the pin), u should be able to push/ ride the bike around (it may be slightly harder now than before).
Otherwise the clutch is not correctly adjusted or there is some other fault.
"No spark": have u tested this? Please let us know how u go. Maybe a picture of the clutch lever on the ENGINE (u might have to put it in your photo album if it's big). It's awesome when u hear the first cough! Please stay safe!
These issues can be difficult for all involved if there is no resolution.
I assume u only took the largest cover off. If u took off the small chain sprocket, please reassembly, as to Ronzworld's preceding post.
With the clutch hand lever RELEASED, the wire of the cable should be without slack, the "plate" should feel firm (not loose) and even (not uneven) and the rear wheel should feel locked. If u can turn it hard enough (by hard or pedalling) u should hear the engine a bit (you'll know).
The clutch hand lever may be a little hard at first. When u fully squeeze it in, the plate should become slightly loose (and stay loose if u lock the clutch hand lever with the little pin).
You said, "I noticed with the cover off that the plate, when it is moving outward, doesn't move evenly. Is this normal? ". Yes, it becomes slightly "loose"/separated when u squeeze the clutch.
If u get someone to help u squeeze the clutch hand lever (or lock it with the pin), u should be able to push/ ride the bike around (it may be slightly harder now than before).
Otherwise the clutch is not correctly adjusted or there is some other fault.
"No spark": have u tested this? Please let us know how u go. Maybe a picture of the clutch lever on the ENGINE (u might have to put it in your photo album if it's big). It's awesome when u hear the first cough! Please stay safe!
These issues can be difficult for all involved if there is no resolution.
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I've spent the last while trying to upload photos but since i must go to work, alas, I will revisit this later. I thank you heartily for your help.
Well, lovely, helpful, lively folks, I have tightened the flower nut so it's snug and even but then heard the cable go pop or something like it slipped out. And so I was reconnecting the cable and tightening it and it doesn't seem to want to cooperate with me at all. It's break time for me. I need a coffee and some food and I'll be back. I would love to hear any and all ideas and am tempted to provide a link to a video or pics somewhere. I love specific outlines as I was an English major. Hah! Look what that's done! I love it here and can't wait for the first cough of the start! Thanks again!
I have run across a couple flower nuts that were stripped. The clutch would adjust normally then "pop" and go out as soon as tension was put on the cable. Check the threads on the inside of the flower nut and on the end of the inner clutch shaft for damage.
Okay. Here is a specific scenario I just experienced after doing the cable again and it slipped again and I started over. I screwed the flower nut in so tight, then backed it off a half turn-all this with the clutch lever all the way in and zip tied to the handlebar-
So now I go through all this "With the clutch hand lever RELEASED, the wire of the cable should be without slack, the "plate" should feel firm (not loose) and even (not uneven) and the rear wheel should feel locked. If u can turn it hard enough (by hard or pedalling) u should hear the engine a bit (you'll know)."
And I screw the locking screw baby screw in all the way (thinking at last!) BUT THAT IS WHEN THE CABLE SLIPPED OUT!? I took the screw out and unleased the fury thinking I had fully pulled the cable loose again but then I noticed it is back in place! I did nothing but remove the baby screw. I know the cable arm is too far in, like 30 to 45 degrees instead of parallel when the clutch handle is released, but SURELY THIS WILL SCREAM OUT SOME OBVIOUS ISSUE I AM NOT SEEING? Thank you in advance and infinity!
So now I go through all this "With the clutch hand lever RELEASED, the wire of the cable should be without slack, the "plate" should feel firm (not loose) and even (not uneven) and the rear wheel should feel locked. If u can turn it hard enough (by hard or pedalling) u should hear the engine a bit (you'll know)."
And I screw the locking screw baby screw in all the way (thinking at last!) BUT THAT IS WHEN THE CABLE SLIPPED OUT!? I took the screw out and unleased the fury thinking I had fully pulled the cable loose again but then I noticed it is back in place! I did nothing but remove the baby screw. I know the cable arm is too far in, like 30 to 45 degrees instead of parallel when the clutch handle is released, but SURELY THIS WILL SCREAM OUT SOME OBVIOUS ISSUE I AM NOT SEEING? Thank you in advance and infinity!
Oops, oh yeah, forgot to say there isn't any slack in the cable though it's hanky inwards at the clutch Arm part but the thing is, the back wheel doesn't feel locked but is a Weensy bit stiffer to push but this is all without the screw in the clutch plate and I don't want to continue until I know how...infinite gratitude.
tying the clutch handle may be where you went wrong
keep the goal in mind rather than the steps
what you want is that plate sitting solidly on the pads when the lever is released, while having it just barely free of the pads when the lever is in the lock position
when the lever is fully pulled in, the clutch plate should be REALLY loose
first, take the flower nut off and see if the clutch arm returns to a position that is about parallel with the drive cover seam
if so, adjust cable for a tiny bit of slack (it will feel a bit funny without the flower nut on)
now lock the clutch lever button (if it won't lock without the flower nut, put that on a bit to get the lever to lock)
start turning the flower nut in a 1/2 turn and roll the back wheel to see if the clutch tries to turn the small gear, if not go another 1/2 turn & check again - repeat until you see it trying to turn the small gear - then back it up 1 or 2 notches such that turning the back wheel does NOT try to turn the small gear &lock the set screw into that notch
release the clutch lever and check that cable still has just a bit of slack
you should now be OK
post if something goes wrong (with pics here or on tinypic.com or something)
keep the goal in mind rather than the steps
what you want is that plate sitting solidly on the pads when the lever is released, while having it just barely free of the pads when the lever is in the lock position
when the lever is fully pulled in, the clutch plate should be REALLY loose
first, take the flower nut off and see if the clutch arm returns to a position that is about parallel with the drive cover seam
if so, adjust cable for a tiny bit of slack (it will feel a bit funny without the flower nut on)
now lock the clutch lever button (if it won't lock without the flower nut, put that on a bit to get the lever to lock)
start turning the flower nut in a 1/2 turn and roll the back wheel to see if the clutch tries to turn the small gear, if not go another 1/2 turn & check again - repeat until you see it trying to turn the small gear - then back it up 1 or 2 notches such that turning the back wheel does NOT try to turn the small gear &lock the set screw into that notch
release the clutch lever and check that cable still has just a bit of slack
you should now be OK
post if something goes wrong (with pics here or on tinypic.com or something)
Thanks! I created a tinypic.com deal so now I'm going to give what you said a try. I appreciate your detailed instructions and here's to success.
Still sounds like a stripped flower nut to me (if I'm understanding your post)
But I'm having trouble following you.
But I'm having trouble following you.
http://tinypic.com/LizaLaw
And there is a link to the ridiculous video I did. And I am done for the night. I'm having trouble following me! Thanks for trying anyhoo. Another time again, liza
And there is a link to the ridiculous video I did. And I am done for the night. I'm having trouble following me! Thanks for trying anyhoo. Another time again, liza
this 'puter has no flash for vids : (
electron says; "Engine definitely not turning.", so usually one would then watch to see where the turning stops from the wheel, to the chain, to the sprocket, to the shaft, to the clutch inner, to the clutch outer to the small gear, to the crankshaft
electron says; "Engine definitely not turning.", so usually one would then watch to see where the turning stops from the wheel, to the chain, to the sprocket, to the shaft, to the clutch inner, to the clutch outer to the small gear, to the crankshaft
well I wish I was closer I would just pop over and I'm sure we could have that little bugger goin in minutes ... it can't be that difficult .. just near impossible ta diagnose or fix from the discriptions provided ... truely sorry Liz I can't 'reach out' and help ... you must be pullin' hair out by now !!