Needed a cns rebuild kit

yah, I think. Is a complete rebuild kit pistons, rings, bearings, seals and pumps about $ 250. too good to be true ......?
 
Thanks Al,but I really need the plastic reducer ring and that kit doesn't look like its got one.I tried to make one and it didn't work big air leak.
 

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W, I just gotta jump on, also...

if you gotta do ANYTHING with a cns it is better to get the NT.

...really...

all we can do is give you the best advise possible so you can get out there and have fun on your motorized bicycle.

Best
rc
 
Gasbike.net has CNS rebuild kits for $15 (I'm sure others sell rebuild kits, but I had bought mine from GasBike so that is what I am referencing). They come with all the jets and other parts. They dont picture the white spacer but I got one with the rebuild kit I ordered last fall (might want to call them to confirm since this is the part you need most) Also, the float I got was plastic like the float I got in my CNS, not metal like pictured.

I have made my own spacer from some PVC water pipe I got from home depot, I detailed how I did it a few posts down in this thread http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=32736&highlight=cnd+carb+working+great

Some people tell everyone to throw away their CNS carbs and buy NT. If you want something basic that is more likely to work with little messing around maybe that is an option for you. If you dont mind taking the time to understand and tune a more complex carb then work with your CNS a while, once you figure it out and get it tuned you will be happy with it. I am happy with mine...
 
Thanks nightcruiser,
I read your post on the cns tuning.Now I think I have a float valve(needle) sticking which is the problem,I'm going to order the rebuild kit from gasbike.I also need the plastic reducer or spacer what ever its called.Thanks every body too.
 
wan37 said:
Thanks nightcruiser,
I read your post on the cns tuning.Now I think I have a float valve(needle) sticking which is the problem,I'm going to order the rebuild kit from gasbike.I also need the plastic reducer or spacer what ever its called.Thanks every body too.
Click to expand...

A stuck needle valve is nothing that should require a new part, just needs cleaning or adjusting...
Most likely you got some crud stuck inside the needle valve that is making it stick open, new fuel tanks are generally full of metal shavings and crap that can clog your carb quickly. It is also possible that the tab on the float is set so it allows the needle to come out of the valve too far, which could cause it to bind when the float tries to push it back up. Either way, pull apart the carb, clean and adjust the needle valve and float and that's all that should be required...
Post back if you need any help....
 
nightcruiser okay I'll try that.What it is doing when the float drop down the valve is suppose to drop down too but it don't unless I shake it.I'll get some carb cleaner and clean it today and try it.Then let you know.Thanks again.
 
There is a page some where around here, that shows you how to make a copper spacer. Instead of the plastic spacer, for your carburetor.
 
Thanks nightcruiser
I just got done making spacer from your post.I got the valve working too.So if it all works thanks.I'll try it Monday got a bunch of stuff to do around here.I will let all you guys know when I try it out.
 
wan37 said:
Thanks nightcruiser
I just got done making spacer from your post.I got the valve working too.So if it all works thanks.I'll try it Monday got a bunch of stuff to do around here.I will let all you guys know when I try it out.
Click to expand...

Sweet, I hope you have success, post back if you need more help...
 
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