My bike setup

reg454

New Member
Jan 11, 2009
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This Pic is of the bike I am using for my build.


This pic is a stock 36tooth sprocket from thatsdax with all edges filed and a light sanding.


In this pic I have added automotive rubber undercoating to reduce sprocket noise plus it looks cooler.
You can get a can for like $3.00usd.


I will have more pic's when my motor kit comes in, I will be also putting the rubber undercoating on all the side plates to reduce noise and plus it looks good. I will be port matching the intake and exhaust, and making sure all bolts have thread locker on them. Making sure the intake tube has no blockage and trimming the piston skirt too. ----edit----- I don't think I need to trim the piston skit since I trimmed the intake manifold.

 
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NunyaBidness

Active Member
Jun 29, 2008
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memphis tn
I like your sprocket. I also think that, since you're doing all that good stuff, you might as well go ahead and replace all the studs, nuts and bolts.
I know I'm looking forward to seeing more pics of your build and am anxiously waiting for the pics of the finished product.
 

Dave31

Moderator
Staff member
Mar 1, 2008
11,204
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Aztlán, Arizona
Great ideal on the sprocket!

Whats all that white stuff? Did someone put too much soap in the washer machine? rotfl
 
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reg454

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Jan 11, 2009
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My kit should come in the mail by fedex tomorrow and I will be Taking Pictures of every step in the process of putting it on my bike. I still havent decided to coat the cover plates when I get the kit because it take like 36hours for the stuff to dry completely that sounds like a thing I would do when I go for drill on the weekend but I still will be trimming the piston skirt (if it needs it) and making sure the intake and exhaust ports have good flow.
 

oldcliff

New Member
Feb 9, 2009
64
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Wilmington Ohio
Nice Reg454. I am ready to start my project, and am very interested in the porting process. Please keep us informed with pics in info on this. Iwill start by increasing the compression with a new sick gasket and also by using gasket sealer (High temp copper according to Fairprice31). I think any further nods would decrease the lifespan of my engine.
 

reg454

New Member
Jan 11, 2009
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I got my kit in and installed it. I had too trim the intake manifold up to 3/4 of an inch from the mount just to get the carb to fit I also had to take the air cleaner off and trim a litlle bit from the top of the carb when the air cleaner go to get it to fit too.

i posted a pic up at the top. I still have a little bit to do like get a good plug wire and cap plus I am using a smaller spark plug, and run the wires better.

Last night I got a flat so I went and got a good innertube for the back and put duct tape around the rim in the inside. And today my master link broke (I think I put it one the wrong way no worrys I got 2 more and this time I put it on right lol.
 
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Outrunner

New Member
Dec 27, 2008
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Atlanta, Georgia
Hey Reg454,
I would HIGHLY recommend that you try to get the carb mounted
as close to level as you can, other wise you WILL have carb float
level problems big time. I know it can really be a hassle, but every
thing effects the way the engine will run, including removing excess
intake manifold gasket material and exhaust pipe gasket material that
will alter the flow of your carb mixture and performance. You will find
that there is plenty of help available on this forum, so take your time,
and enjoy your winter project.
Outrunner
 

reg454

New Member
Jan 11, 2009
269
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michigan
Hey Reg454,
I would HIGHLY recommend that you try to get the carb mounted
as close to level as you can, other wise you WILL have carb float
level problems big time. I know it can really be a hassle, but every
thing effects the way the engine will run, including removing excess
intake manifold gasket material and exhaust pipe gasket material that
will alter the flow of your carb mixture and performance. You will find
that there is plenty of help available on this forum, so take your time,
and enjoy your winter project.
Outrunner
it is just a temporary setup untill I can make an intake that goes to the right pst the frame. I have been checking the plug and I am getting correct fuel ratios.
 

oldcliff

New Member
Feb 9, 2009
64
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0
Wilmington Ohio
Reg454

Looks great so far. Maybe you could make a manifold that will go right or left 45 degrees like the old Harley XLR 750 flat track racer. It had 2 carbs out the same side. You could prably find a pic of one of these Harleys by doing a general on line search. They are real popular with the vintage motorcycle people.

Oldcliff
 

reg454

New Member
Jan 11, 2009
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michigan
that bikeis gone i have some new pic'sof my current bike, still have the carb where it is at and runs fine going to buy a new intake man soon though.
 

oldcliff

New Member
Feb 9, 2009
64
0
0
Wilmington Ohio
I have a problem like reg 454 has. I have mounted the engine in the mountin bike frame and also added the sick kit for driving through the 7 speed sprocket. I had to do a major mod on the frame mounts and also ran into the same carb interference that Reg454 had. I made a longer carb intake that angles towards the left. The carb is not level, about 5 degrees off. The motor will not start. I get a strong spark and there is gas in the float chamber. I also get a vacuum through the carb. I tried lowering the float level, (Due to the carb not being level), so the engine won't flood. It still won't start. The engine is new and due to increasing the compression with a thin sick head gasket, it's really hard to turn over.
Any suggestions on why it won't start. I am considering getting another engine or possibly changing out the cylinder. HELP!
 

Cabinfever1977

New Member
Mar 23, 2009
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Upstate,NY
use a straight intake will work.

and old cliff find a very bid hill go to the top prime the carb 3-4times and go down and pop the clutch half way down.
 

reg454

New Member
Jan 11, 2009
269
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39
michigan
I have a problem like reg 454 has. I have mounted the engine in the mountin bike frame and also added the sick kit for driving through the 7 speed sprocket. I had to do a major mod on the frame mounts and also ran into the same carb interference that Reg454 had. I made a longer carb intake that angles towards the left. The carb is not level, about 5 degrees off. The motor will not start. I get a strong spark and there is gas in the float chamber. I also get a vacuum through the carb. I tried lowering the float level, (Due to the carb not being level), so the engine won't flood. It still won't start. The engine is new and due to increasing the compression with a thin sick head gasket, it's really hard to turn over.
Any suggestions on why it won't start. I am considering getting another engine or possibly changing out the cylinder. HELP!
Make sure that gas is getting to the carb if their is no gas in the loat chambeb you might have a clog somewhere.
 

Clotho

Member
May 25, 2008
304
1
18
use a straight intake will work.

and old cliff find a very bid hill go to the top prime the carb 3-4times and go down and pop the clutch half way down.
He has a shift kit so he will have to pedal to turn the motor over. The hill will help but without pedaling nothing is going to happen.
 

oldcliff

New Member
Feb 9, 2009
64
0
0
Wilmington Ohio
You are right Clotho, the hill thing wont work for the sick bike kit. I do have gas in my float chamber. I also did boost porting inside the cylinder by grinding two connector groves like I saw on another post. I am thinking this along with the longer intake might be causing most of the start problem. I am trying to find a supplier of the short intake. this should correct the level problem. The next step will be a new cylinder. If these steps don't help I will go back to the stock head gasket. For starting I plan to build a support to get the rear wheel off the ground when I attempt to pedal start the beast.I appreciate all the help I can get. This is a great forum!!!!!!!!!