"MotorNewsBoy"

GoldenMotor.com

tyrslider

New Member
Sep 26, 2008
958
2
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RainCity
Thanks SB

I'll get you measurements tomorrow.

I'll be getting back on this project very soon now that the holidays are behind us. Got a bunch o' stuff to do w/ it. Also been workin' on the new 4 stroke kit Should have it runnin this wknd!
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Thanks SB

I'll get you measurements tomorrow.

I'll be getting back on this project very soon now that the holidays are behind us. Got a bunch o' stuff to do w/ it. Also been workin' on the new 4 stroke kit Should have it runnin this wknd!
Yes, we have survived the holidays. Good to hear you're making progress. Don't forget to take photos!
Thanks for your help with the measurements.
SB
 

tyrslider

New Member
Sep 26, 2008
958
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RainCity
3.5" d x 12" l till it starts tapering also took frame butt at front into consideration.

Watch for fotografs of thee "ShellyBelly Whisper Drive" mounted to an Electra Street Rod!
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
3.5" d x 12" l till it starts tapering also took frame butt at front into consideration.

Watch for fotografs of thee "ShellyBelly Whisper Drive" mounted to an Electra Street Rod!
Excellent! This may actually work. I tinkered around a bit last evening and the cans I'm considering are just shy of 3" in diameter. Two are corn cans and the third which is the same diameter, but shorter is from a can of mandarin oranges. The corn cans have a lip for a can opener only at the top, so I left that alone and with a knife and small hammer opened up the bottoms enough to remove the corn and then used a dremel to open it up. A grinding attachment on the drill and finish up that edge. The oranges can I opened both ends with the can opener since it will be the middle section. The bottom end of the corn cans fit into the ends of the middle can so there is a slight overlap and when I solder them up it should make a better joint than edges butted up. I don't see a problem getting them soldered nice and tight. Aftet that I figure out the filler pipe and fuel line, sight gauge and vent. Total length is a hair under 12", so with a harness leather covering it should be a nice fit with enough room for fasteners. It's worth a try anyway... what's to lose? If it doesn't look good the I won't use it. Volume is 40 ounces which isn't bad. Photo is with the cans just set in place together. Thanks so much for taking the time to measure that. I'll let you know how it works out.
SB
 

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tyrslider

New Member
Sep 26, 2008
958
2
0
RainCity
SB somehow I missed this post. lookin' good! Slowly gettin' back into this build. The ShellyBelly's takin' all my time. Have a SA 90mm front drum coming. Got to finish up the tank too and so on. Hope all is well!
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Excellent! This may actually work. I tinkered around a bit last evening and the cans I'm considering are just shy of 3" in diameter. Two are corn cans and the third which is the same diameter, but shorter is from a can of mandarin oranges. The corn cans have a lip for a can opener only at the top, so I left that alone and with a knife and small hammer opened up the bottoms enough to remove the corn and then used a dremel to open it up. A grinding attachment on the drill and finish up that edge. The oranges can I opened both ends with the can opener since it will be the middle section. The bottom end of the corn cans fit into the ends of the middle can so there is a slight overlap and when I solder them up it should make a better joint than edges butted up. I don't see a problem getting them soldered nice and tight. Aftet that I figure out the filler pipe and fuel line, sight gauge and vent. Total length is a hair under 12", so with a harness leather covering it should be a nice fit with enough room for fasteners. It's worth a try anyway... what's to lose? If it doesn't look good the I won't use it. Volume is 40 ounces which isn't bad. Photo is with the cans just set in place together. Thanks so much for taking the time to measure that. I'll let you know how it works out.
SB
Tyreslider,
I finally got around to making that tank for the Worksman and it turned out pretty nice. I'll post photos tomorrow or the next day. I wish I had my Worksman here in Maryland instead of back in Minnesota so that I could put it place to see how it looks, but I guess I'll find out in a couple months. I covered it in black harness leather and think I like the look. It's different anyway. I have one more request for a measurement. I'm using copper plated plumbing hangers (forget what exactly they're called) which I found at Lowe's to affix the tank to the frame. Can you tell me what the diameter of the upper cross tube is? The hangers are for 3/4" pipe, so I may well need to spread them out a bit, especially since I want to use a little elk hide for padding so that I don't screw up the paint on the frame. Many thanks. How go your projects?
SB
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Pictured below is my tin can version of an in frame tank for the Worksman Paperboy. The first photo shows the raw materials... two corn cans and a slightly shorter mandarin oranges can of the same diameter. The corn cans have a bottom which is slightly recessed and fits inside the ends of the oranges can, so the joint is lapped slightly and makes for a nice union. To open the ends of the corn cans I used a punch, small hammer and knife.
Hangers are copper plated steel and bolt on to the ends by way of a nut soldered to each end of the tank before covering in harness leather. Fill tube is a 3/4" copper plumbing elbow and male threaded fitting with a 3/4" brass hose cap. The pipe hangers will affix to the upper cross tube. Length should exactly match the straight portion of the space between upper and lower cross bars and the diameter is about 1/8" shy of filling the space top to bottom. Fuel capacity is 40 ounces. The second tank in progress will get a sight gauge at the front end. Made a matching funnel from a little mandarin oranges can and a section of copper pipe, one end of which is flared.
SB
 

tyrslider

New Member
Sep 26, 2008
958
2
0
RainCity
lookin good! Ordering spokes this week for the "MotorNewsBoy". Gonna do a Sturmey 90mm DynaDrum 6v 3w generator hub up front and clean up and respoke the drum that's aready on the rear. The rims are gonna be black for sure but I keep thinkin' blk spokes'll be cool too. Other than the wheels I just need to finish the gas tank and she'll be ready to mock up and dial in. Then it's strip down and powdercoat. Luckily it's really fun and cool projects that're keepin' me away 'cause I really look forward to finishing this one.

This bike really started my "GasPunk" fascination. It is actually standard jackshaft configuration on gokarts.

Diceman, what do you think of this motor?
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Tyreslider,
Excuse me for kind of stepping into your thread with the tin can stuff. I look forward to some photos of where things are with your project.
Dan,
Thanks for the kind words. I ate that corn, by the way.
SB
 

tyrslider

New Member
Sep 26, 2008
958
2
0
RainCity
Well here's a sneak of the MotorNewsBoy on it's way back (finally)! Some revisions include Marzocchi front suspension w/ Shimano Disc Hub. Hub set to go on a 24" front rim to soak up an inch of extra fork length (already moved the trees down 2"). Downhill forks are very long!

See what else unfolds!

More to come Soon!

Cheers!
 

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andy b.

New Member
Jul 14, 2010
55
0
0
PA, USA
How close does the front tire come to the jackshaft with the 26" and 24" wheels?
And I also have to say, on those photos of the original Harleys, the engine sits out in front of the pedals. With your jackshaft positioned where it is, it also kinds of gives that effect. Very nice looking!!!!

andy b.