motor out of box,,, any cause for alarm

B

bill gurreri

New Member
OK so here is my 1000th post since ordering my stuff and i guess i worry a bit however i planned on seeing a mangled piece of metal when i opened my new engine kit after hearing some horror stories. Everything seems to be decent. The few things i did notice is A) one bolt on the rear mount is pretty tweeked, B) the "waterproof" boot on the plug wire is cracked and dryrotted, C) wiggleing the sprocket sounds loose in the piston chamber, i think that is normal though.D) the cluth arm has 0 tension but i assume thays normal and will change when wires et. are mounted... just figured i'd see what you guys say as my bike wont be here foir 2 days...and do you suggest (if there is an upgrade) a new cdi and wire... do they make the cdi box that the wire can be replaced easily... any other suggestions or any rituals to share with me from when you guys receive new motors.... As always, you guys rock.....
 
ok so clutch engages good,,, i was afraid to snap it at first thats why i didn't push it hard, chain break already ordered a few days ago in the mail, bfuel tank is built into the new bike (gt-2).I also upgraded to a hd #41 diamond chain. I will go get a 1/4" torchwrench tomorrow i wll definatley upgrade the tensioner do you recommend any.
 
Wow, Bill. Nougat has it about covered except for 1 thing. Get a 10mm combination wrench, and carry it with you everywhere. It will help to get you home.
 
Maybe two ten mm's.;)
We were just talking the other day about fileing down the welds on intake to allow button head replacement bolts fit down all the way. Locktite every thing you replace , after your sure of fit!
Of you want a quick project, find a kids bike with one inch tubeing and cut the guts out of it with hacksaw, pull crank off makes great motor stand . I welded mine together but were theres a will...
http://db.tt/yscuXwX
http://db.tt/VrOWahp
Just strap it down when working
 
wow really good advise, nice stand set up too, loctite check 10mmx2 check, if 10mm fail break out the secret tool,( cellphone w/wife on speed dial). thanks guys...hopin to get this together this weekend,,, start a ne wjob monday and this is my transportation so i just want to get it right and fast... you guys sure make it alot easir thanks, thanks , thanks
 
that was the best and most solid advice i think I've ever seen here in the forum. Quick, concise, and to the point.

I generally replace all gaskets, hardware (particularly those chain tensioner bolts as they're soft as butter) and plug wire right out of the gate. Locktite is definitely your best friend on these, as well as that heads up on the 10mm.. I carry a small socket wrench and the fittings for my seat and wheels as well, and a couple extra tubes and clutch/brake/throttle wires to boot in a little pack so I don't get stuck on the road..
 
I may be getting a little ahead of myself... i should just stick with the basics... i can replace the gaskets as a problem arrives and build a screamer in the meantime,,, this will give me more time to gather idea's, gain experience and pick your brains for a bit.....You guys are turning me into a peddlefile...ha
 
Intake gasket would be a good idea as the ones that come on the engines are just some thin junk paper of some sort.

While your at it.....if you have a dremel you may as well debur the inside of the intake tube, most have casting burs inside that will hinder air/fuel flow a bit.

I also use a 6mm nyloc nut as a jam nut (double nut) on the intake & exhaust studs plus loctite, having the first nut tight with the loctite on it and then a nyloc nut tightened down against the first one is the best way I have found to avoid those nuts vibrating loose, do this right and you can leave that 10mm wrench or socket at home, nothing ever comes loose on mine after i done this to them 963 miles later on one bike.

On that tensioner, I recommend after mounting it to frame that you make sure the roller is as far down as it will go so that as the chain stretches youcan raise it to remove the slack, also after you get it mounted in this position I recommend that you drill a small hole through the tensioner strap and into the Bike frame tube just in the one side of the tube though, no need to drill through both sides..... and then put a self tapping sheet metal screw in that holewith some loctite on it, this will eliminate the chance of the tensioner bracket from rotating inward and getting into the spokes, this could cause you a major headache.........! the stock tensioners actually hold up pretty good most of the time, the bike I'm pushing 1000 miles on still has the original tensioner and is still good as new.

Well, this is all I can think of right now and I think the other fella's here have covered just about everything else in a very good way ( better and quicker than I could have done it) but I do hope something I said here will help ya out and I wish you the best on the bike project and on the new job.....

Peace

.flg.




bill gurreri said:
I may be getting a little ahead of myself... i should just stick with the basics... i can replace the gaskets as a problem arrives and build a screamer in the meantime,,, this will give me more time to gather idea's, gain experience and pick your brains for a bit.....You guys are turning me into a peddlefile...ha
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replacing all the screws is never a bad idea, most of em feel like really soft metal.

as far as the chain tensioner goes, no matter how tight you torque it down it will still be movable by hand in my experience, it flipped into my spokes and messed one up, i was going slow so it wasn't a big deal but if i was going fast it could have been really bad.

another member here, adam valentine suggested i put strips of a tin can between the brackets and the bike frame, worked like a charm, could hit the the thing with a hammer and it wouldn't move (seriously i tried)
 
i have and ride a gt2 i love the bike but i thing with this bike is the double brake handle bites look 4 a upgraded 1 as well when u get ur build done and ur ready to ride go back a check all ur brakes the cable will need some adjustment also the chain tensioner fit perfect to these bike the bottom tube is the same size but i just added a self tape to be safe my other bike like to move into the spoke till i did this it did it because it has a small taper to it like most bikes do
 
hm. I always switch out my tensioner bolts for ones with the maximum hardness available at my ACE Hardware, and tighten them up with locktite. I can't budge a single one of the tensioners I've mounted that way..
 
I am with momentummotorgroup, I snapped the stock bolts so what i did was use some of this rubber insulating tape and wrapped it around the frame then got some high grade super strong bolts and nuts, it works great... i think i would break something else before i broke those bolts from tightening them down too much. i can barely move them now. :)
 
Like I said earlier just drill a small hole through the tensioner and into the frame tube and insert a small sheet metal screw and problem solved with chance of tensioner rotating into spokes, very simple mod that is much better in my opinion than anything else you can do because under the right conditions any clamped device can move but if it is securely clamped and also pinned with that screw going through bracket and frame, then it is as secure as it can be and you can have complete peace of mind about it....

Pic below shows a tensioner I made for my second build and even though it is very secure with how it is attached above and below, I still anchored it with that small screw, with this mod it will NOT move ever....unless that screw is broken.
 

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do i need a tesioner if im cutting the chain......got the chain cutter in the mail today,made new intake gasket w/ high temp gasket material, debured intake,replaced and loctite intake. pickin up the gt-2 at fed ex. ( hate waiting so i'm picking it up)....can't wait....gigidy.
 
No you dont have to use a tensioner at all if tthe rear sprocket is centered perfectly and you can adjust the rear wheel so that the chain has proper tension without needing a tensioner, sometime you can then put a tensioner on the peddle side chain just to take up any extra slack it may have, some like that setup better and actually this is how I plan to do my next build.


expect to have to work out a bug or 2 before everything is just like you want it but just listen to all the bike smarts you are hearing here and you will be buzzing that sucker around sounding like a coffee can full of mad bumble bee's in no time.

I wish you happy building and safe riding........

dance1



bill gurreri said:
do i need a tesioner if im cutting the chain......got the chain cutter in the mail today,made new intake gasket w/ high temp gasket material, debured intake,replaced and loctite intake. pickin up the gt-2 at fed ex. ( hate waiting so i'm picking it up)....can't wait....gigidy.
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Nougat said:
I don't think anyone suggested drilling the frame in any way ... ?
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mapbike said:
Like I said earlier just drill a small hole through the tensioner and into the frame tube and insert a small sheet metal screw and problem solved with chance of tensioner rotating into spokes, very simple mod that is much better in my opinion than anything else you can do because under the right conditions any clamped device can move but if it is securely clamped and also pinned with that screw going through bracket and frame, then it is as secure as it can be and you can have complete peace of mind about it....

Pic below shows a tensioner I made for my second build and even though it is very secure with how it is attached above and below, I still anchored it with that small screw, with this mod it will NOT move ever....unless that screw is broken.
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this is what i was referring too.
 
To each there own, but a 1/8" hole in an area that has little to no stress on it isn't a big deal, and I will drill a frame in this way or tell someone else to everytime someone brings up this tensioner issue simply because it has been proven to work and it is one of the very best ways to insure that the tensioner will not get torqued over into the wheel, that small hole absolutely takes nothing away from the strength of the bike frame.

But, some are willing to take this risk and some like myself are not, please understand I aint slinging mud here, I am just convinced from my personal experience that this is one of the easiest ways to insure a 99% guarrantee on that tensioner not moving and causing someone a bad wreck or at least cause them to trash a wheel.

I'm sure there are those who dont add the anchor screw and have had no issues, but I have read several stories of those who have and as of yet I have not heard of any stories where someone had the tensioner clamped properly and pinned and had the rotating into the spokes failure, just good insurance and takes nothing away from the bike at the same time, I am much more concerned about the factory welds on some of these bikes than I would be that tinny screw pinning that tensioner solidly in place...

Peace!

Only my personal opinions on the matter...nothing more.....nothing less!


matthurd said:
i dont like the idea of drilling a frame, but that's just my opinion.
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Man a year ago most everyone was making it a point to tell all the newbie builders to do this simple mod for a good solid mount of the tensioner and now it's a last resort..............Wow! how things have changed since I was away for a while, of coarse this is no big deal but I just dont understand the concern with the small hole through one side of that tubing which will do nothing but give a sloid mount and insure the tensioner stays where it should instead of the chance of it twisting over into the wheel spokes......

I'm not wanting to fuss over this at all, but my goodness this is the best mod that can be done with the stock tensioner and I dont understand all the negative thought about it.

But like I said to each their own, I know this is an excellent mod to insure a safe tensioner mount, but I do believe the best solution is just to make a better tensioner or do away with it all together, but when I know someone will be using the stock one I will always highly recommend this mod. to me it's about safety more than anything, and i would hate to hear of someone getting hurt real bad because of the tensioner moving into the wheel.

Peace

dnut

Nougat said:
Oh I missed that.

I wouldn't drill that pin all the way through, but into just the outside shouldn't be a big problem. I'd consider it a last resort, though.
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