motor out of box,,, any cause for alarm

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by bill gurreri, Apr 6, 2011.

  1. bill gurreri

    bill gurreri New Member

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    OK so here is my 1000th post since ordering my stuff and i guess i worry a bit however i planned on seeing a mangled piece of metal when i opened my new engine kit after hearing some horror stories. Everything seems to be decent. The few things i did notice is A) one bolt on the rear mount is pretty tweeked, B) the "waterproof" boot on the plug wire is cracked and dryrotted, C) wiggleing the sprocket sounds loose in the piston chamber, i think that is normal though.D) the cluth arm has 0 tension but i assume thays normal and will change when wires et. are mounted... just figured i'd see what you guys say as my bike wont be here foir 2 days...and do you suggest (if there is an upgrade) a new cdi and wire... do they make the cdi box that the wire can be replaced easily... any other suggestions or any rituals to share with me from when you guys receive new motors.... As always, you guys rock.....
     
  2. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    A) That rear mount stud can be replaced with an M6x1.0 of the correct length.

    B) I wouldn't worry about the condition of that rubber boot for now.Make a mental note to replace later with a decent wire and cap, but it'll work for the time being.

    C) There might be a little play in the engine sprocket. Again, don't worry about that for now.

    D) Point the clutch arm straight back, then try to push it towards the motor (right under where the carb goes). It'll be really hard, but it'll push a bit. That's your clutch. If the clutch arm is swinging completely inward with no resistance, then you have a problem, probably the bucking bar or clutch ball missing. We'll deal with that after you make sure about the clutch arm.

    To replace the plug wire, unscrew the wire from the CDI. It might be epoxied in there, but it'll come out. Replace with a 7mm wire and cap, which you can get from a variety of local places (auto or bike parts stores). If you get a standard automotive plug cap, you'll need the little screw on nib for the end of the spark plug, but if you're replacing the wire and cap, you may as well do an NGK plug at the same time, which will come with that. If you want to keep the threaded top plug style, ask for a wire from an old air-cooled VW (Beetle, 411, Ghia, whatever).

    The big thing I found with my first kit is to replace the hardware that holds the chain tensioner bracket to the chainstay. The bolts I had were so soft that their heads broke off before I could get them anywhere near tight enough.

    If you don't already have a method for chainbreaking, get one. Harbor Freight sells a cheap chain breaker for the big chain that works, as long as you sand down the pin. A bike chain breaker will likely bend before it pushes the pin out. Lots of people do it with a hammer and a nail with the tip cut off, but that's not my style.

    Check the inside of the tank for trash - paint, bits of metal, squirrels. Shake some ball bearings around in there to get the loose junk out, and flush it out with a little gasoline (before installing the petcock).

    You will need to sort out the front mount after the bike comes, so that you know just what you need for it, if anything.

    Take one of the head nuts off, and see if the studs are 8mm or 6mm. Torque all the head nuts (in an "X" pattern) to 50-70 in-lbs for 6mm, 150-180 in-lbs for 8mm. (If you don't have a 1/4" drive torque wrench, they're cheap, and you want one.)
     
  3. bill gurreri

    bill gurreri New Member

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    ok so clutch engages good,,, i was afraid to snap it at first thats why i didn't push it hard, chain break already ordered a few days ago in the mail, bfuel tank is built into the new bike (gt-2).I also upgraded to a hd #41 diamond chain. I will go get a 1/4" torchwrench tomorrow i wll definatley upgrade the tensioner do you recommend any.
     
  4. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    I was only talking about the nuts and bolts that hold the stock tensioner bracket to the frame. Just change those, use the tensioner you have (if you need to use it) before worrying about upgrading. So far as I know, nobody has a proper universal aftermarket tensioner solution yet; they're all fabbed on site.
     
  5. wdbtchr

    wdbtchr Member

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    Wow, Bill. Nougat has it about covered except for 1 thing. Get a 10mm combination wrench, and carry it with you everywhere. It will help to get you home.
     
  6. "the prussian" Shop Dogs

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    Maybe two ten mm's.;)
    We were just talking the other day about fileing down the welds on intake to allow button head replacement bolts fit down all the way. Locktite every thing you replace , after your sure of fit!
    Of you want a quick project, find a kids bike with one inch tubeing and cut the guts out of it with hacksaw, pull crank off makes great motor stand . I welded mine together but were theres a will...
    http://db.tt/yscuXwX
    http://db.tt/VrOWahp
    Just strap it down when working
     
  7. bill gurreri

    bill gurreri New Member

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    wow really good advise, nice stand set up too, loctite check 10mmx2 check, if 10mm fail break out the secret tool,( cellphone w/wife on speed dial). thanks guys...hopin to get this together this weekend,,, start a ne wjob monday and this is my transportation so i just want to get it right and fast... you guys sure make it alot easir thanks, thanks , thanks
     
  8. momentummotorgroup

    momentummotorgroup New Member

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    that was the best and most solid advice i think I've ever seen here in the forum. Quick, concise, and to the point.

    I generally replace all gaskets, hardware (particularly those chain tensioner bolts as they're soft as butter) and plug wire right out of the gate. Locktite is definitely your best friend on these, as well as that heads up on the 10mm.. I carry a small socket wrench and the fittings for my seat and wheels as well, and a couple extra tubes and clutch/brake/throttle wires to boot in a little pack so I don't get stuck on the road..
     
  9. "the prussian" Shop Dogs

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    nougat is the man ,always well thought out advice .
     
  10. bill gurreri

    bill gurreri New Member

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    I may be getting a little ahead of myself... i should just stick with the basics... i can replace the gaskets as a problem arrives and build a screamer in the meantime,,, this will give me more time to gather idea's, gain experience and pick your brains for a bit.....You guys are turning me into a peddlefile...ha
     
  11. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Intake gasket would be a good idea as the ones that come on the engines are just some thin junk paper of some sort.

    While your at it.....if you have a dremel you may as well debur the inside of the intake tube, most have casting burs inside that will hinder air/fuel flow a bit.

    I also use a 6mm nyloc nut as a jam nut (double nut) on the intake & exhaust studs plus loctite, having the first nut tight with the loctite on it and then a nyloc nut tightened down against the first one is the best way I have found to avoid those nuts vibrating loose, do this right and you can leave that 10mm wrench or socket at home, nothing ever comes loose on mine after i done this to them 963 miles later on one bike.

    On that tensioner, I recommend after mounting it to frame that you make sure the roller is as far down as it will go so that as the chain stretches youcan raise it to remove the slack, also after you get it mounted in this position I recommend that you drill a small hole through the tensioner strap and into the Bike frame tube just in the one side of the tube though, no need to drill through both sides..... and then put a self tapping sheet metal screw in that holewith some loctite on it, this will eliminate the chance of the tensioner bracket from rotating inward and getting into the spokes, this could cause you a major headache.........! the stock tensioners actually hold up pretty good most of the time, the bike I'm pushing 1000 miles on still has the original tensioner and is still good as new.

    Well, this is all I can think of right now and I think the other fella's here have covered just about everything else in a very good way ( better and quicker than I could have done it) but I do hope something I said here will help ya out and I wish you the best on the bike project and on the new job.....

    Peace

    .flg.




     
  12. matthurd

    matthurd New Member

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    replacing all the screws is never a bad idea, most of em feel like really soft metal.

    as far as the chain tensioner goes, no matter how tight you torque it down it will still be movable by hand in my experience, it flipped into my spokes and messed one up, i was going slow so it wasn't a big deal but if i was going fast it could have been really bad.

    another member here, adam valentine suggested i put strips of a tin can between the brackets and the bike frame, worked like a charm, could hit the the thing with a hammer and it wouldn't move (seriously i tried)
     
  13. baadboy

    baadboy New Member

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    i have and ride a gt2 i love the bike but i thing with this bike is the double brake handle bites look 4 a upgraded 1 as well when u get ur build done and ur ready to ride go back a check all ur brakes the cable will need some adjustment also the chain tensioner fit perfect to these bike the bottom tube is the same size but i just added a self tape to be safe my other bike like to move into the spoke till i did this it did it because it has a small taper to it like most bikes do
     
  14. momentummotorgroup

    momentummotorgroup New Member

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    hm. I always switch out my tensioner bolts for ones with the maximum hardness available at my ACE Hardware, and tighten them up with locktite. I can't budge a single one of the tensioners I've mounted that way..
     
  15. Vistaman73

    Vistaman73 Chat Box Junkie

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    I am with momentummotorgroup, I snapped the stock bolts so what i did was use some of this rubber insulating tape and wrapped it around the frame then got some high grade super strong bolts and nuts, it works great... i think i would break something else before i broke those bolts from tightening them down too much. i can barely move them now. :)
     
  16. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    Like I said earlier just drill a small hole through the tensioner and into the frame tube and insert a small sheet metal screw and problem solved with chance of tensioner rotating into spokes, very simple mod that is much better in my opinion than anything else you can do because under the right conditions any clamped device can move but if it is securely clamped and also pinned with that screw going through bracket and frame, then it is as secure as it can be and you can have complete peace of mind about it....

    Pic below shows a tensioner I made for my second build and even though it is very secure with how it is attached above and below, I still anchored it with that small screw, with this mod it will NOT move ever....unless that screw is broken.
     

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  17. bill gurreri

    bill gurreri New Member

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    do i need a tesioner if im cutting the chain......got the chain cutter in the mail today,made new intake gasket w/ high temp gasket material, debured intake,replaced and loctite intake. pickin up the gt-2 at fed ex. ( hate waiting so i'm picking it up)....can't wait....gigidy.
     
  18. mapbike

    mapbike Active Member

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    No you dont have to use a tensioner at all if tthe rear sprocket is centered perfectly and you can adjust the rear wheel so that the chain has proper tension without needing a tensioner, sometime you can then put a tensioner on the peddle side chain just to take up any extra slack it may have, some like that setup better and actually this is how I plan to do my next build.


    expect to have to work out a bug or 2 before everything is just like you want it but just listen to all the bike smarts you are hearing here and you will be buzzing that sucker around sounding like a coffee can full of mad bumble bee's in no time.

    I wish you happy building and safe riding........

    dance1



     
  19. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    If you can get the engine and pedal chains to the right tension without an engine side tensioner, and without scraping the frame with the chain, go for it.

    First build, though, use the tensioner. You'll still need to shorten the chain. You can work on attempting to run without one later on.
     
  20. matthurd

    matthurd New Member

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    i dont like the idea of drilling a frame, but that's just my opinion.
     

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