That is the old style pre-2008 clutch. Pop the cover off and look. The 9.4 comes with the "grippa" clutch now. Unless you got an old one that had been sitting on a shelf for a couple years.
NEW
OLD
morini hotrod
- Thread starter camlifter
- Start date
That is the old style pre-2008 clutch. Pop the cover off and look. The 9.4 comes with the "grippa" clutch now. Unless you got an old one that had been sitting on a shelf for a couple years.
NEW
OLD
How do you adjust the new clutch?
What RPM does your 9.4 kick in at after you adjusted it?
just took the cover off, mine has the clutch like in the first pic. the vid in that link is dead. so how do you adjust it. take it apart and change bevel springs. know of any vids showing how it's done. looks like i'll have to order some bevel springs.
When I finished the bike for Gene, I rode it for about two miles to get a feel for the gearing and the overall performance.
The only thing I didn't like was the high R.P.M. required to fully engage the clutch. During normal riding, 0-30 m.p.h., the clutch was constantly slipping.
Craig brought over a tiny tach, and we checked the R.P.M. at about 1/2 clutch engagement...I was sitting on it and it was pulling pretty good...6,500 R.P.M. This was WAY too high...it needed to be about 3,000 R.P.M.
I went to a scooter shop and bought some slightly lighter springs. It made all the difference in the world to the rideability of the bike. You can now feel the clutch fully lock up at about 20 m.p.h.
As with all things "experimental" only time will tell, but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that if the clutch isn't slipping...it isn't wearing.
I'm not sure why your low end is so soggy...I'm no lightweight and gene's bike pulls fine right off idle.
I think I would be looking at the tuned pipe for your low end power problems.
Jim
The only thing I didn't like was the high R.P.M. required to fully engage the clutch. During normal riding, 0-30 m.p.h., the clutch was constantly slipping.
Craig brought over a tiny tach, and we checked the R.P.M. at about 1/2 clutch engagement...I was sitting on it and it was pulling pretty good...6,500 R.P.M. This was WAY too high...it needed to be about 3,000 R.P.M.
I went to a scooter shop and bought some slightly lighter springs. It made all the difference in the world to the rideability of the bike. You can now feel the clutch fully lock up at about 20 m.p.h.
As with all things "experimental" only time will tell, but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that if the clutch isn't slipping...it isn't wearing.
I'm not sure why your low end is so soggy...I'm no lightweight and gene's bike pulls fine right off idle.
I think I would be looking at the tuned pipe for your low end power problems.
Jim
I am no expert, far from it, but when a Manufacturer goes to the trouble to provide exact dimensions for a pipe that will maximize power at the low end and throughout the power range and guys who buy the Motor ignore that favoring a pipe that resembles Keilbasa then take your pick. This one ?
or this one
ill admit the stinger is to long, that will only hurt the top end a bit, not something someone would notis by the seat of your pants dino. AS for the chamber and head pipe. there's more sience involved than just measurments. im willing to bet the volume of your pipe and reversion frequince is pretty close to the same. But at least you made some neat cones.I am no expert, far from it, but when a Manufacturer goes to the trouble to provide exact dimensions for a pipe that will maximize power at the low end and throughout the power range and guys who buy the Motor ignore that favoring a pipe that resembles Keilbasa then take your pick. This one ?
or this one
Doesn't the science translate into measurements? What exactly are you saying? Do you not agree with the Morini Franco Specs? for the head pipe and cones?
i'm trying an experiment with the 3 shoe clutch, i'm replacing the shim bevel stacks with coil springs from a comet clutch, this should let it engage much sooner, the light switch engagement at 10,000 rpm just is not going to work for me on a motor bike. i need to be able to cruise at part throttle, i'll let everyone know how it works out.
i think what kyle ment about the pipe is that the morini numbers are more for a stright run of pipe, once you start bending it to fit up and around the bike the those numbers will change.
i think what kyle ment about the pipe is that the morini numbers are more for a stright run of pipe, once you start bending it to fit up and around the bike the those numbers will change.
It might be easier for ya to go with a spring style clutch cam, that way you can choose lighter springs, and change the length of the springs to adjust the engagement. There are a couple aftermarket clutch manufactures for this motor BTW.
And you should make a video- I want to see it light up the tire like you said!
science allways leads to math at one point or another, and i do agree with morinis specs but to get the pipe where you want it you half to look at it with more than a strate line measurment. you have to concider volume ,bends and tapers. basicly i was cracking on your kubasas refrance. even though cam diden't completly make the pipe himself he did cut it up and put it back together the way he wanted it. blow the pic up and look at it .smooth as a babbys ass inside and out. plus it performs the way it should. hes still mess
ing with the clutch but when he went for the first test ride he was on the seat and through grass at me 5 to 10 ft away. not bad for a kubasa on a heavy bike with some on on it.
Hey Kyle,
I don't know math from spath, but I do know that is one cool exhaust and build in general. I hope to see it in person this fall on my migration back to Maryland. You guys still planning a run this fall?
SB
I don't know math from spath, but I do know that is one cool exhaust and build in general. I hope to see it in person this fall on my migration back to Maryland. You guys still planning a run this fall?
SB
hay silverbare good to hear from you. if john doesent brake it by then ill show you how to drift that back tire through the corners.
Camlifter, I am planning on running a 5.8 Morini through a NuVinci on my Cadillac Cruiser. Thanks to your posts I now know I need to set the clutch to engage at low rpm and apply power gingerly as not to abuse the hub too much.
I was checking out your pictures on your Morini Hotrod build and I’ve got a few questions about the way you had the jack shaft set up. It looks like you didn’t use the vertical tensioning bolt that mounts below the engine on the SBP shift kit. Isn’t that needed to account for the chain stretching over time? Or is it simple enough to just move the whole mounting system up when it's needed? Was the engine mounted directly to the SBP bracket or were the two mounted independently?
In the picture above it looks like you mounted a chain tensioning wheel between the engine and the sprocket on the shift kit, was that necessary because of the way you positioned the engine in the frame? Or is it just a good idea with this set up? And while I’m asking, were you able to get by without having to bend the pedal cranks arms?
About your pipe…I’m sure the model/type is listed here somewhere. But since I am already asking about other things here…where’d you get it and did it require a lot of modifications? Thanks
I was checking out your pictures on your Morini Hotrod build and I’ve got a few questions about the way you had the jack shaft set up. It looks like you didn’t use the vertical tensioning bolt that mounts below the engine on the SBP shift kit. Isn’t that needed to account for the chain stretching over time? Or is it simple enough to just move the whole mounting system up when it's needed? Was the engine mounted directly to the SBP bracket or were the two mounted independently?
In the picture above it looks like you mounted a chain tensioning wheel between the engine and the sprocket on the shift kit, was that necessary because of the way you positioned the engine in the frame? Or is it just a good idea with this set up? And while I’m asking, were you able to get by without having to bend the pedal cranks arms?
About your pipe…I’m sure the model/type is listed here somewhere. But since I am already asking about other things here…where’d you get it and did it require a lot of modifications? Thanks
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i have the spb bracket u-bolted and welded to the seat post so it wouldn't move, the idler wheel is to adjust the chain, it may be over kill but i didn't want the jack shaft mount to have any chance of moving. my lower rear motor mount is also attached to the spb J/S bracket.
don't go to low on the clutch as the higher engagment allows for slip letting power come through less violently. check out the thread on the morini clutch in this section. when i had mine engaging low it was breaking things from the power hittng all at once.
my pipe is made from a KX65 mx bike pipe. some modification is needed, not to hard though if you can weld or have someone do it for you.
i no longer have the nuvinci hub on this bike, the 9.4 was just to much for it, it now has a fixed sprocket on the rear wheel.
don't go to low on the clutch as the higher engagment allows for slip letting power come through less violently. check out the thread on the morini clutch in this section. when i had mine engaging low it was breaking things from the power hittng all at once.
my pipe is made from a KX65 mx bike pipe. some modification is needed, not to hard though if you can weld or have someone do it for you.
i no longer have the nuvinci hub on this bike, the 9.4 was just to much for it, it now has a fixed sprocket on the rear wheel.
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How much of this was done with the coil springs? I did one of my best extreme hill climbs with my set of those new. For me in their 7th hour of extreme testing, ''Heat soak'' on the motor broke those springs broke down ''heat degradation'' the bike was a dog after that until I replaced them.
I put the bevel washer springs back in. No matter how I stacked them for me I could not complement my N.V. hub. I seasoned a set of those in a few hours ''extreme testing'' and the N.V. relationship soon became the best I was ever going to get it. ''Heat degradation '' Important note now married to the absolute need of gears here for me. The bike would not even move with out them for me other wise. I cannot duplicate chain breaking mad h.p. at off idle......My 5.8 h.p. motor only seams to be able to make this kind of power in the upper rpm range.
Now I have a bike that I have to physically hold back just hitting the kick start or idling at a light.
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