One more thing with nos fat is not good(most people run fat then get mad when it pops)when running fat on nos xtra fuel gets in ring land & will damage top of the piston when fuel ing.
I am suspecting that most people will not take "adding Power" as seriously )or at least as "professionally" as you. I can tell from just your few posts that you seem to understand how an internal combustion actually occurs.
I am betting that you can take one of these little pieces of china goodness and make more power and better reliability out of it over time.
Here is the problem: I have been watching this forum for awhile now.
While there are some serious builders on this forum (some are quite impressive), there seems to be no shortage of the "it's cheap, who cares if it blows up" and "this will work, sorta, kinda if I just bend it here" and ooops types.
No offense to the person who posted the "I wish I found this forum before I ordered..", because you are at least trying to learn and understand your machine.
However, most cases of I ordered my $100 engine and picked up a bike at wally world that choose "how fast can I get this baby" as the first choice of mods before they even rode that piece of crap without a motor on it is usually a symptom.
Don't get me wrong. I am not hating on Wally World bike shoppers. I actually own a wally world mountain bike frame (but the frame is all that will remain on that bike long term). I have learned from owning junk bikes that they need a lot of components replaced, like most of them and all of them if you have the funds.
The Wally bike is not even designed well to be a peddle pusher and putting a motor on those things stock is how shall I say it "ballsy but not bright".
Man, if you hit a hill and just try to peddle up it, a peddle will surely snap off (if your lucky) or the crank bottom will just blow apart if you have any average adult size weight on your bones.
Looking at how these kits are put together stock, there is no freakin way I would want to go faster than the stock configuration. I would be thrilled if it ran down the rode without breaking into pieces.
Those wally world bike wheels don't need that kind of stress on those skinny little spokes on one side of an already questionable wheel. Personally I would rectify that situation BEFORE I even rode it. All these things can be fixed and should be before worrying about "performance and speed gains" on a $65 dollar bike, especially if you are counting on the bike getting you home should that little engine have a hick up. Walking a bicycle home already sucks and makes you want to throw it in a ditch. Unfortunately, it does not take much just regular use of one of these bikes as a commuter to realize you need a better bike and strapping an engine to it is certainly not going to help the longevity of it.
No worries though gang, you got that cool single coaster brake on the back wheel.
An idea...
find a big hill.....
ride down it sans motor....
how fun is that to stop without locking it up??
Man, it just makes me sometimes laugh but also wonder to myself if people just don't care about living through some bad choices.
Back on topic. I read about this boost bottle and the reviews are so mixed. I would not expect a power gain in any way, but if it smooths out some vibration it still might be worth it.
Is anyone noticing less "buzz" in their handlebars during normal riding or even when riding like they stole it and/or does it move the "shake" to a different spot in the power band?
The kind of answer that would satisfy my own curiosity about it would be something like "I used to get a slight buzz in my handlebars at around 10mph but now the buzz is not happening until I get to 20". That would at least indicate a difference in the harmonics of the motor.
