"kindalikeawhizzer"

I was looking at this one on ebay...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELTA-ROCKW...403?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c991d8bcb

...wondering if would be suitable. Looks like the smallest pulley is 3". I don't know yet if it is cast iron or pot metal or what.

I've also decided against ordering the longer 5/8 shaft from BMI as it comes to about $38.00 with shipping. Ouch. Unfortunately it is the only place I can find to carry one. I have a 5/8 X 10" keyed shaft and could use a die to thread the end needing a nut. I think I'll go that route and save some money. Cutting a groove for the C clip at the other end should be simple enough with either a rotary tool or hacksaw.
SB
 
That looks promising if you could use the middle one. Still need to know your offset dimension to determine that.
Is the nut on the outer end necessary? Maybe a washer or larger nut welded to the end of your longer shaft would hold everything in place. You could still slip the shaft out from the back side. What is the c clip for? I guess I'm not seeing the whole picture yet.
 
Go back to post 417 shows a sandwich,of the hole thing with the sprocket in the middle. Think it is needed to hold the bearings and all together form shifting.
I also think the ribs that suport the snout could be ground down some to clear a pulley..............Curt

PS how much room is the were the sprocket is is there room enough for a belt with a thin pulley?
 
msrfan said:
That looks promising if you could use the middle one. Still need to know your offset dimension to determine that.
Is the nut on the outer end necessary? Maybe a washer or larger nut welded to the end of your longer shaft would hold everything in place. You could still slip the shaft out from the back side. What is the c clip for? I guess I'm not seeing the whole picture yet.
Click to expand...

http://www.bmikarts.com/58-x-8-18-Jackshaft-for-Torque-Converter_p_2361.html

This is what my 5/8 shaft looks like, but 2" shorter than this extended one. It is keyed and threaded on the one end where a nut gets torqued down at the outer pulley. At the other end of the shaft is the bearing we are trying to fit a cupped pulley over. The C clip is to hold the bearing in place. I guess with the change we're making the stepped or cupped pulley would hold the bearing in place. So probably the C clip is redundant.

Over the next couple of days I'll try to figure what the pulley size would need to be to fit over the bearing.
SB
 
That's what I thought, but maybe the nut is redundant also if it could be substituted with a welded collar. Would make it easier to deal with if you didn't have to thread the shaft. I don't know why the nut had to be torqued with just that snap ring on the other end to torque against.
 
I've copied out from the instructions the parts having to do with the "jam nut". You are no doubt right and the nut isn't needed so long as things are locked in place. Without access to welding right now, a split collar would work as well, wouldn't it? Seems to me it would.
SB

"Step 6
Install Driven Unit
Place the Long Key onto the Jackshaft and slide it
down. Place the Driven Unit on the Jackshaft, line it up
with the Key and slide it down. Place the Drive Belt on
the Driven Unit. Loosely thread the Jam Nut (12) on
the Jackshaft but do not torque it down at this time.

continued from page 2
Step 7
Install Driver Unit
Separate the Driver Unit and place the Stationary
Sheave Plate (10) on the Engine Crankshaft. Install
the Bronze Bushing (9) on the Post (3/4 Drive Unit
only). Slip the Drive Belt (8) over the Bushing on the
Post of the Drive Unit. Install the Hub (5) with the
notches on the Hub facing outward.

Step 8
Install Remainder of Drive Unit
Place the other half of the Drive Unit (6&7) on the
Crankshaft. Line up the Outer Cover (4) and install the
Mounting Bolt (1), Lock Washer (2) and Pilot Washer
(3) and Torque to 14 ft lbs. Torque the Driven Unit to
12 ft lbs. Take care not to over tighten and damage
snap ring."
 
Thanks, Curt. The split collar was even less expensive at $4.50 including shipping. This is great... I don't have to get a die for cutting threads and don't need the C clip. There's more than one way to do things, but with someone like me sometimes it is hard to get past the way something stock is set up, thinking that "well, that's how it is supposed to be or they wouldn't have done it that way". You guys tend to think more about what is needed to function rather than how someone else did it. Pretty cool to share what you know on the forum. Thanks, I might have pulled the trigger and spent $38.00 instead of $4.50. Now I need to figure out the cupped or stepped pulley and get that lined up. I'd rather not call on anyone to do lathe work or welding for me if instead I can find something that will work as it is, even if I end up replacing it with something better later on.
SB
 
Now your talkin', save the money. Sandwich all that stuff between a collar and the pulley. If you want a little more insurance, you can drill and tap both ends of the shaft and use bolts and washers to hold everything on. Endless possibilities, just do what suits you and your budget.

I don'r know about that pulley. It looks to be less than 2'' total width. It may not do what you want. Also it doesn't say what size belt. It may be for 3/8'' belts. Always better if you can see what your getting in person.
 
How else could it be done other than the stepped pulley? How do you make a cupped pulley?

What if you had two steel pulleys with a section of steel pipe of a large enough diameter to go around the "snout" housing the bearing on the transmission? They are welded together so there are two pulleys with a section of pipe (say 2" long) in between. The outer pulley is the one that is stock and has the 5/8 core with set screw and keyway. The inner pulley is the one we want and is of the right diameter... say 2 3/4"... and it is welded to the section of steel pipe that has an inside diameter of 2" or thereabouts. Once welded together the inner pulley is cut out from the center to just shy of the weld so that it can fit over the "snout". What do you think? Would that work?
SB
 
Last edited:
Yes that is sorta the way its done, can do easy on lathe cut it accurate with a little lip clamp it and weld...............Curt
 
curtisfox said:
Yes that is sorta the way its done, can do easy on lathe cut it accurate with a little lip clamp it and weld...............Curt
Click to expand...

This seems to be a better way to go than trying to make a stepped cone pulley work. So the next question is, what is the ideal diameter for that final drive pulley? 2 3/4" is an odd size and may not be an option. 2 1/2" might be possible, but might be too tight of a squeeze. 3"? 3 1/2"? What do you think? Anyone?
SB
 
Yes, that's the way. I would suggest finding the pipe or tubing of the correct I.D. first. Make sure it's a bit on the long side of what you think it will end up. Then have the 5/8'' keyed end welded into it. Then you will have an idea what size pulley to put on the other end of the sleeve. Then shorten the sleeve until you arrive at the dimension that aligns with the rear sheave. The other way is to weld a pulley onto the tubing first and then make the other end a slip fit to align, then weld it also.
If you don't have those materials, let me see what I can come up with.
 
So 1 3/4'' inside and a couple inches long would be a good start. I think I have that material available. I also have a good selection of pulleys. I'm thinking the smallest pulley that will fit would be the best overall ratio. I'll let you know tomorrow what I find.
 
I will also look and see what i have,and there is always the weld in ones at fleet 2 1/2 " or 3" .I have had good luck with DOM tubing for that as seems to be a better fit,more tru to size..................Curt
 
Thanks, you guys. I just checked again with a rule and the housing around the bearing is 1 3/4". It is aluminum and wouldn't be that hard to shave down a bit if the inside diameter of the tubing was also 1 3/4". Of course a bit of wiggle room would be good, but I also know we're looking at a 2 1/2" diameter pulley being better than a 3" one. I doubt we'd need to go bigger than 3". At the other end of the tube it could even be a sprocket, right?... so long as the bore was 5/8" and had a keyway. On the other hand if it was a small pulley then that would leave open a possibility for running a small generator off of it. Yes, Curt, one of those from your fleet/tractor supply meant for welding to a core would work fine for the drive pulley.
SB
 
What also might work is a wide belt pulley and the belt would ride down inside,so a 3" would be as good as 2 3/4".. Also they have different size weld in hubs that might just fit a 2" pipe..........Curt
 
curtisfox said:
What also might work is a wide belt pulley and the belt would ride down inside,so a 3" would be as good as 2 3/4".. Also they have different size weld in hubs that might just fit a 2" pipe..........Curt
Click to expand...

That's true regarding the hole in the weld in hubs, might just find one to slip right over the tube. I'll take your word for it on the wide belt pulley. I'm guessing 2 3/4" would be golden. If I had to be wrong on the gearing, I'd rather the bike be a little slow with great grunt power than super fast at the top end. Even if it can fly, I don't have either the desire or the pilot's license to go crazy fast. Putt putt, thump thump is good. There is also the remote chance this bike will one day be wedded in wholesome matrimony to a sociable sidecar, in which case it would be pulling a heavier load. Grunt power is good power.
SB
 
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