"kindalikeawhizzer"

Time for an update and a little bit of show and tell. I stripped the bike down in order to paint the frame and wheels which are now done, even if there will be touching up later on.

I've been house and pet sitting for my neighbors while they are on vacation to someplace warmer than northeastern Minnesota which includes just about everywhere. I set up a cot in their sun room overlooking a frozen version of Eaglesnest Lake 3, which has been a nice spot to re-assemble the bike and do some creative staring over coffee. I also polished up the gas tank and added a Whizzer logo piece salvaged from a plate from a Whizzer fork I bought some years ago and sold on a Panther build. Dug out the plate and removed the logo carefully which is now part of this build. Don't worry, Whizzerguys, I will clarify to anyone who asks that it is not a Whizzer, but is kindalikeawhizzer and a kind of tribute build. Is that Okay? If not, you may report me to the Whizzer police.

I like the brown, but did not like the gold seat with it as it was too bright. I wanted the copper to be what your eye goes to, not the seat. So I replaced it with a black version of the same great saddle which also has a lucky 7 seat post from a 1939 Elgin. It will require shimming to make it fit properly, but I have done that before with the Indian Hiawatha build and know how to make it secure. I like the position better and that it blends into the build. The other kind of bright stuff will be the cream accents and cream pin-stripping on the fenders once I get them repaired and painted.

I finally got to see the handlebars on the frame and did some sitting in place to see how they feel. They come back too far and are also higher than is comfortable for me, so I will trim back the chromed steel a few inches and also shorten the copper extensions a few inches as well. I could make the whole handlebar set out of copper (which is what I'm doing with the Elgin Velocipede), but I think I'll go with this set being a kind of hybrid of metals and making it quite clear that they are hand made. Kind of a steam punk /industrial look sorta. Whatever, I like them and it's my bike, so there. I'm making up a set of foam grips covered in hand stitched black elk hide without fringe this time.

Due to the additional height of the fatty cyclops tires (26" X 2.4") the center kick stand needs to be altered so that both the rear drop stand and center stand legs all touch at the same time, making for a more secure support. I truly hate it for a bike to fall over. Not good. Altering the center stand legs will require cutting them with the tubing cutter and adding a junction connector on each leg. About a half hour job including re-soldering. The stand originally had aluminum legs which I amputated in order to make the legs out of copper and be of perfect length. The copper slips over aluminum "stubs" and each leg is held to the stub with a wee brass bolt and nut.

The rear drop stand was originally a kind of compromise since I wanted a stout welded steel one, but didn't know how to weld. So I made a "temporary" drop stand out of copper water pipe and fittings which I have found to be plenty strong enough to support a bike, simple to make and have now made three of them for different builds. I no longer care about welded steel ones since copper has been adequate and my use of it for jewel lights and all sorts of things has become a kind of signature saying "silverbear was here".

One more thing. Tinsmith indulged my juvenile wish for a copper doughnut to go inside the headlight I made. It looks nice, I think. Thank you, sir!

That's about it for now. I have some engine work to do and finishing up the engine mounts. Also fenders and little time consuming stuff that takes forever. The bike as it is will get stored away for the next month or two and attention now goes to the 1934 Elgin Velocipede sandwiched in between cutting and splitting firewood in preparation for next year's long, dark cold.
SB
 

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More show and tell...
SB
 

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And a few more.
SB
 

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SB spent the last 15 minutes reading and gazing at your K.L. Whizzer & am equally drawn to both the tank and headlight, both dominate the build but from different perspectives, headon, side, quarter front and 1/4 rear. With the engine installed it should enhance the sum total. You are building yet another winner along with your velocipide! RC
 
Oh my Silverbear, your "kindalikeawhizzer" is beautiful, - a true work of art :)
And yes I find that I can't look at anything made from soldered copper anymore without being reminded of your good self and the way you build your wonderful motor-bicycles :D
 
"the center kick stand needs to be altered so that both the rear drop stand and center stand legs all touch at the same time, making for a more secure support. I truly hate it for a bike to fall over. Not good." --SolderBear

Oh, man! I can think of few things that make me shudder more than a good bike falling over. And it sometimes happens even with a bike that's pretty reliable about balance. It just hurts, doesn't it?

Thinking about it, I'm a bit surprised the we don't read, and write, more rants about this. It sure has happened to me quite a bit.
 
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Outstanding Sir. Another reason that this summer must happen. Get the wheel barrow out and toss in a couple of cushions. I'll be there.

Steve.
 
Thanks for all of the kind words... it means a lot to me.

Yes, tipping a bike over is potentially bad news. I'd hate to dent that copper gas tank. I'm the only guy I know with both a center stand and rear drop stand, but it makes sense to me.

Steve, I've got my hopes up for next summer and your knees being both functional and painless. No more butt scoots or crawling up the stairs. And yes, I have a deluxe wheel barrow with boat cushions!
SB
 
Dan,

Funny you should mention that. I was thinking that I should look up Stanton's powered wheel barrows and see just how they're made. Why have a mobility scooter when you can have something that fits the Fasteddy personality much better.

Steve.
 
There is a video out there of a creeper, you know for working under automobiles, a guy put a 5 hp engine and kind of luges.

I saw today a small school bus that has a deck being made for the roof..... I'm thinking mutant vehicle for Burning Man Event. Shade structure and railings almost looks like as well.

I'll keep an eye on it.

Back to my idea for my motor bike to have side car and if not training wheels and art cover...... is quite on hold till I have a place to work on it some more.

It is so great though to see work on the Kinds Like A Whizzer... keep pics updates!

MT
 
MT,

That's rough not having a work area and something you've worked so had on for so long that needs to be finished. I hope that your situation improves soon.

Steve.
 
Not that much for show and tell, but a little along with a question or two from me to you.

I admire how some of you know before you start just what your project is going to end up as and have a clear road map on how to get there. It would save some wrong turns along the way I'm sure if I were made that way, but I'm not and tend to mostly just give in to wanderlust and the call of wheels turning to start another project without a gps device to guide me. So I tend to wing it. This is one of those days I have to pull in and ask for directions.

The bike is back up in the front window, but turned the other way for a different view and consideration of other concerns. Without much understanding of how they work, but that they do, I decided early on that this project would have a constant velocity transmission or CVT. The one I bought over a year ago is a Comet clone sold through an online go kart outfit. On sale it was around $140.00 which was about all my budget could stand. You see it in the photos below bolted onto the engine in pretty much the only position that will work. It is designed to have a final chain drive, so there is a drive sprocket on the back side of the driven pulley. In effect this is a kind of jack shaft.

So the whole thing conveniently bolts to your motor. Handy. Simple. If it fits. The big if. Making it fit may take some tinkering I can see. First off the engine shaft is going to need to have the keyway extended further back so the mounting plate can shoulder right up the crankcase. I figure that extra inch or so can be done with a hand rotary tool and some patience. (Said in an offhand and breezy manner as if I know what I'm talking about. It isn't just church which requires some faith, I'm learning.)

Then there's the matter of making it so the drive pulley doesn't go flying off the engine in pieces. Looks like the idea was for the end of the engine crankshaft to receive a washer and machine bolt and maybe a C clip besides. The Tecumseh has neither. So what's to hold the pulley in place besides wishes and magic dust? And where do you order the magic dust, anyway? So, looks like I will need to drill a bolt hole in the end of the crankshaft and tap threads. I can do that, perhaps. (More blind faith and magic dust.) And I don't see why I can't use the wee cut off wheel on the rotary tool to cut a little groove near the end of the shaft to hold a C clip in place as a kind of insurance policy.
Is this all doable? I guess I'll find out.

The other major thing is setting up the final drive on the transmission to align with the sheave on the rear wheel. The sheave is a given. No lateral adjustment there. Alignment has to come on the back end of that jackshaft deal on the aft end of the transmission. It was designed for a sprocket just on the backside of the driven pulley and I believe was also designed for a go kart and not a motorbike. This 199cc Tecumseh is a big boy with wide shoulders and an attitude. I can picture myself riding an engine with wheels. Oh boy.

Since the engine is wide, where the sprocket is located on the transmission is way off from aligning with the sheave. To align and mate with the sheave a pulley would need to go where the outer end of the jack shaft is located. Right now there is a bearing located there. So (he says without actually knowing) all I have to do is remove the bearing, cut off that few inches worth of housing and place the bearing further inboard on the shaft. Then put the final drive pulley where the bearing used to be. "Nothin' to it, honey." If I can do this then I can see it working. If I can't then I'll need to scrap the transmission mounting plate and make up a custom jack shaft which will attach to the seat tube.

So, this is the subject of current creative staring sessions. I'm no mechanic or machinist, but I am determined and financially challenged. "I can do this!", (he says, self cheer leading. In the mean time the peanut gallery sits in stunned silence picturing the manic old fool with a dremel tool in one hand and a drill in the other.)

Well, I've got pretty thick skin. I can take it. Tell the truth. Is this in the realm of possibility or do I need to pray harder and hope for magic dust?
(Cont. More pictures follow.)
SB
 

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Pictures detailing the transmission...
 

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Hey SB. . The driver is to be retained with a bolt in the end of the crank. Just drill and tap for a 5/16 bolt. I suspect the key is made into the driver? I don't know what size the secondary shaft is if imported I suspect 15mm. The comets were 5/8. It would be a simple matter to replace the current shaft with a longer one to extend the sprocket or pulley out the back. Just add spacers as necessary to space the driven sheeve and your driver on the other side. 5/8 shafting is easy to find keyed its entire length. I have never tried finding 15mm but it should be out there somewhere. Maybe McMaster?
 
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Oooh, silverbear, I can see that you've got a lot of hardware to fit into a tight space there. And I'm not enough of an engineer to give any specific advice.

I'd be a bit reluctant to do the intricate cutting and such you're considering on that engine output shaft. Getting it not quite right could have bad consequences. I'd consider, instead, making some sort of adapter. That would have the undesirable effect of moving that CVT even further out toward your left leg, of course.

Maybe there's a way around it, though. Picture that CVT mounted in a near-vertical way against the seat tube. The CVT input is on top and output is on bottom. The output is behind the seat tube, the input is in front of it.

You could start by aligning the CVT output with your wheel sheave. Now you'll need to connect engine output with CVT input. A short chain run ought to be workable.

You'd also want to make a mounting bracket for the CVT that is quite stout. Obviously. But you might be able to anchor it on the engine as well as the seat tube.

You might not have a lot of extra space to work with going this route. But it might be a bit more roomy than the direct CVT to engine mount.
 
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