ive duhsploded my piston rings!!

E

Elixys

New Member
well i took the cylinder sleeve off the motor to "dress the ports" with the new dremel that I got yesterday. sadly i made a big NOOB mistake and when I put the cylinder sleeve back on it wouldnt go on all the way....so me being who I am and relatively inexperienced took a block of wood and a small hammer to the top of it to "nudge" the thing back over the piston. I didnt even think to check the piston rings . i didnt notice until i tried to ride the thing to work and i couldnt get the thing to start. I had to disconnect the chain and pedal the 4.75 miles to work....:-|| ....luckily i left 45 minutes early so i was still on time. i took the motor apart at work and plicketty plack the piston rings are in a million peices and unsalvageable. for future refrence anyone who wants to take the top end of the motor apart BEWARE the piston rings. Just make sure that you pay attention when you are putting it back together to compress the rings before trying to put the piston back in the sleeve. and dont use a hammer and block of wood to "tap it back together" it should go together as easily as it came apart. luckily the wall of the cylinder isnt marred up so I go on the hunt for new piston rings today. hopefully an auto parts store will have some and its a long weekend off work for me if none do. just be careful and pay attention when taking the cylinder sleeve off and putting it back together.
 
well not even the local small engine repair service had any new rings so i ordered some feom gasbike.net........now the long waiting game for them to show up.
 
Sorry to hear of yer duhplosion, happens to us all from time to time lol

Figured I'd mention that not only should ya compress the rings, but there's two sneaky lil alignment pins conspiring against ya too ;)

IMG_0165-1.jpg
 
yeah i saw those on upon closer inspection. may want to put a warning out for newbies like me on that post about port matching at the top of the page. i didnt even know i was screwing up until i screwed up.
 
Sorry man - but I can't really put all the various hazards in the first post lol, but there was this in the OP;

BarelyAWake said:
So be sure to jus' keep readin' on and to read it all before ya start rippin' yer engine apart
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& these;
*For a better tutorial about pullin' yer head and cylinder w/pics - check Norm's thread out: Engine top end rebuild & engine stand

I should mention that ANY alteration of the engine can result in accidents and failure - DO NOT attempt this if you're not willing to say "doh" and get a new cylinder should you mess up or break something. I won't say "don't try this" if you've never done it before as this is the perfect lil engine to learn with... but I will say that even the "experts" screw up from time to time
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...and ofc good ol' Murphy's Law, of which often gets us all ;)
 
flybytaco said:
you can sneek 2 fingers in to compress the rings where the 2 cutouts at bottom of cylinder too
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And grow long, strong finger nails to aid in compressing the rings without marring the piston or cylinderrotfl Or use Lee "press-on" nails?laff Avoid hoseclamps!
 
Another little hint if you take the piston off the connecting rod Note the direction it faces! (the side the pins are on for the rings) Dont want to catch a ring in a port==doh!
 
lol the first time i pulled a weedeater engine apart i did the EXACT same thing!.....

let's just say i learned my lesson, and have put togethor, quite a few topends from various engines
 
You can use a hose clamp to compress the rings enough to tap the jug down over them, then remove the clamp. If the clamp's not wide enough, you can cut a strip of thin sheetmetal and use that under the clamp
 
scotto- said:
And grow long, strong finger nails to aid in compressing the rings without marring the piston or cylinderrotfl Or use Lee "press-on" nails?laff Avoid hoseclamps!
Click to expand...

The hoseclamp has been widely used in the ultralight community for years with no probs or damage. I've done this myself on many of all types of small engines for 40 years without EVER damaging any parts

The thing to avoid is being hamfisted and using more clamp pressure than needed
 
All you need for these chin's is untrimmed finger nails. The kind that reaches for the gold in a nose picking. lol
 
BarelyAWake said:
o sneaky lil alignment pins conspiring against ya too ;)

IMG_0165-1.jpg
Click to expand...

I feel your pain and wish i was there to say NOOO!!! Do not use a hammer to install your head thats a big no no like dood said just use your fingers in the two cut out holes on the head if all is lined up it should be pretty simple .never force .

If you cant get it on with a tap from your bare hand then somethings amiss evaluate , fix re try make sure these two pins are facing the rear of the bike same side as the Carb not the muffler aka front of the motor
I also like to use a little bit of lube to help the rings slide in easier also less chance of scoring the head

Also make sure the ring doesn't go on upside down I believe the widest part "where the ring is separated " should be facing up & the closest point should be on the bottom on each ring Naturally you may want to put the closest point on the rings on top ..this is incorrect not sure how much it matter I just noticed this when I took a new one apart My guess is so the compressed air can caught better by the ring making . However research this further I may have gotten a new head put together by a Bozo
 
I will often put the piston/rings partly into the barrel first, then lower all of this on to the rod. There's plenty of room to slide wrist pin in through transfer opening in barrel skirt.
But if you don't want to mess with clips, and havn't bothered to check wrist pin bearing?
 
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